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hoov100

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Everything posted by hoov100

  1. Lol, like this? How far you can go in one day on a bike is purely rider, I have gone 600 miles in a day comfortable on my 07, while others can barely do 100 miles on their goldwings.
  2. Most of the time you can buy the can ready to go from a fuel cell manufacturer. As for the cage, I would do two more bars on the sides and connect them to a "halo" at the top where you can through bolt the metal box.
  3. If you are picking the correct relay's then why are you burning them up? I'm not trying to start an argument here, but I have been using the ford 70amp relay for high on every taurus/mark 8 fan I have ever installed and any one of my friends installed and have yet to have one even come close to burning out or malfunctioning, and these fans are used only on high and used on a daily basis. Like I said though, I am not trying to start an argument, but you're being a little hippocratic in that statement. (as for the amperage ratings my friend tested it, I'll ask him the next time I see him and see how he got them)
  4. I feel the insurance argument is very over played, I'm currently paying $800 a year for full coverage on my 07. I am 21, have had my license for less then two years with no accidents or tickets. As far as rider skill determining how fast the capable the bike really is. That is true, I have smoked liter bikes on 600's and I have smoked 600's on my R1, but I don't feel that it's really a good way to purchase anything. I feel that if you like it, buy it. I bought my R1 because I liked it, I know I could have learned faster on a 600, but I liked the R1 and bought it. I'm not saying you are wrong, but in my honest opinion when it comes to things like these, I would buy something that I liked regardless (most of the time anyway) of how it performs compared to something else.
  5. Check for aftermarket parts, as most of the time when something breaks it's replaced by a aftermarket part. I bought my 07 R1 new and the only serious problem I have seen/heard from where a valve guide issue on some bikes and if they don't have them get the factory pilot powers. If someone claims abnormally low mileage the place to check is for a worn shifter, rub marks on the peg brackets and marks on the upper triple tree. Also don't let anyone discourage you from buying a bike, I bought my R1 as my first street bike and love every second of it.
  6. I wonder if it's the same bolt pattern as a z32TT/q45 trans.
  7. Ford uses a regular 70 amp relay in most of the cars you can get the two speed fan. I use the lincoln mark8 fan in my autox car and the taurus fan in my z32 with those relays and they don't even get warm after running for several hours. If you are killing relay's then you are not running the correct size. The taurus fan draws 35 amps on low and 40 on high and surges on initial start up to 43 amps on low and 47 amps on high. As a general rule of thumb, 3k CFM minimum with the fan sealed to the radiator and the radiator sealed to the core support and the airbox sealed to the radiator.
  8. enco has some nice drill bit sets, or you can go pick up two big drill index's from harbor freight.
  9. Cut 2 inches out of the steering shaft where it hits, weld in a u joint and use a heim joint right before the ujoint and bolt it through the inner fender well. Much easier (IMO) then making a turbo relocation pipe and all the associated fab with it and makes the motor much more drop in.
  10. My vote goes to the vg30, I mocked one up my my s30 before I sold it and besides a steering shaft issue it fit beautifully, Also don't let people scare you into thinking the vg30 is more complicated, the timing belt setup only needs to be replaced around 60k miles and is really easy to do. I love the L-series, but the vg is just that big of a step up in design and requires no special parts to make serious power reliably.
  11. I would highly recommend cleaning out the casting flash in the coolant passages on the vg33 if the motor is out, or the heads are off, also aren't two t3's a little laggy for for a 3.3L?
  12. I think he was using vtec as a generic example of VVT. Also vtec is not a genius idea, when you can just have the big cams in the first place all the way around and control the intake cams to make up the power below the curve. (IE: vg30dett and vh45de) Like I said though, VVT and VCT are the real winners, where you can just run the big cams all the way around and use the VVT to make up the low end by decreasing overlap, IMHO...... (why is this in the fuel section?)
  13. Mine is down until I can replace the floor and firewall with tin an add some more cage.. (there is literally no measurable chassis flex in this car when you jack it up at any given point.)
  14. If you plan on doing drifting I would highly reccomend staying away from a VLSD unless you have a serious trans cooler.
  15. For practical self defense use, a 9mm or .45 in the 1911 style will be more the accurate and have more then enough stopping power. The issue you have with ammo capacity is not that you see yourself shooting more then a couple rounds, is the possibility of actually having to use a full clip. I have had the unfortunate opportunity of being in that situation a couple times and trust me, you are not going to have enough time to line them up in your sights and usually they are not going to be exposed. Take both guns and see which one you can get a smaller grouping with at 25 yards.
  16. Of course they don't offer them off the shelf, but that doesn't mean they won't you make you a custom set. (what they have been doing for years now) Until we get confirmation that they won't custom make you a set of 17's, we can't say they don't.
  17. I doubt diamond stopped offering custom made wheels, give them a call and ask.
  18. I would say drop a stock vg30de in it and get everything running and save up for a TT front clip.
  19. Skip both, a stock TT motor with basic bolt on's would put you where you want to be and then some for ALOT less money and headache. plus I don't think you could make a little CA push 350WHP without a major build, same goes for the RB. Even if you do build them to make the power, the power curve is going to be fairly up there. and on top of all that you would still have a torqueless motor.
  20. Run the z32 lower control arms, run the z32 spindles backwards and machine the steering arm to accept a 240z tie rod or go heim and ream the upper ball joint mount to accept an aftermarket ball joint and run a custom upper control arm. For the T/C rod you are going to have to either re-drill the mounting holes on the LCA, or take the z32 T/C rod mount and mount it to the s30's frame. You will have to spec a coilover setup for the front, but all you would need to do is make tabs on the lower control arm and make a new strut tower. Fairly easy if you are good at fab work.
  21. This is a zxr wing in case anyone wonders what it looks like.
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