boosted300

Does the Quest alternator bolt right in? (Wiring and mounting?)

So I just finished revamping my engine bay...switching from "stock" RB25DET setup where turbo is mounted low via cast exhaust manifold, to a top-mount setup where turbo is up high via tubular header. Obviously I can't have my cake and eat it too as my triangular strut bar now no longer fits due to hitting the turbo. Before After Does anyone have any suggestions for a bar that will accommodate the top-mount set-up? Will the Techno-Toy bar work? For that matter, will the Cusco bar even work? Even the Cusco looks like it would be an awfully tight fit across the compressor housing of the turbo. I know that ZT-R has one, but it looks like he had to do some fairly decent modifying/fabrication to get it to work...I'm hoping to not have to!

I purchased a "bolt in" replacement from Quality Power... I gave them the serial number on the stock RB25DET alternator and the provided me with what they assured me would be a direct bolt-in 180A replacement...ehhhh, not so much. The plug did not work, ie the battery was not getting charged (posts on alternator had different current configuration than factory unit apparently), and the ears were in different locations than the stock unit. I called them and they insisted that it was the right alternator, but then told me I may have to fabricate a bracket, and they also told me how to bypass the factory plug and wire it so that it would charge... not exactly "bolt in". The ears were off ever so slightly...however it required me to have the factory bracket modified. I had to cut it and have it re-welded with an offset. You can see in the picture the top of the bracket that used to be a straight piece, and now is somewhat like a "p" due to the offset. Aside from that the alternator works...it did have a slight squeal from the bearing on start up that eventually quiets down when the car is warm...not the greatest experience overall. I did not test the actual amperage output, so I'm assuming it's as advertised. Ultimately, had they not advertised it as a direct bolt in replacement, it wouldn't have been such a frustrating experience as I would have known going in I had some modifications to make. But when you are told it's bolt in and it requires fabrication and re-wiring it's quite a letdown.

Looks awesome...way to stick with it! Question...are the NT01's noticeably noisy?

Wow...thoughts and prayers for his family. Rest in Peace

Love the valve cover!

Great review, thanks for sharing.

Driveshaft Shop...The owner Frank is a standup guy, you won't be disappointed.

Ugghh. Rolling pin eh? Please let me know how that works out! Good info though...I have 235's in the front and they do rub the frame rails if I lock out...so I just try not to! If you're still reluctant to flare the fronts, perhaps you can try trimming the inside of the lip rather than rolling. Rolling can be tricky and have varied results. I've seen a lot of fender roll attempts end up in cracked paint. Good luck.

Sparco

pm'd

Thanks guys. Actually, a 0 offset would be worse I think as the +4 was already to far out. I would've had to go with a higher offset to get them to fit off the bat...but ultimately, despite the mission to get it all done, I'm really happy with where it's at. A higher offset would've eliminated some of the lip, and I prefer a deeper dish look.

Rocky IV

Agree with this...I also agree that it's good for the rest of us if it did sell for that price. But did it sell? It's no longer on the website, and doesn't appear in the "Recently Sold" link. Ebay listing pics are no longer linked...perhaps new owner asked for all info to be removed?

I mean...what else? (please pardon the decrepit spare that had to be put on the trailer!)

Electric power steering?

Music...what a delightful tune...(Pun intended)

Looks great! So the piece on the firewall just bolts onto existing hood latch catch and becomes the hood catch?

That's a mean looking motor.

Even with the tail huh? I would think that would make a fairly decent difference.

If you can get it to hook, your numbers are good enough for 9's in the high 140's.

Could this be considered like automotive Alabama Windage? In any case, sounds like a very effective to me.

Now that I've gotten this to work, I've decided to widen my original lighter-shade Rotas...I may end up selling the prototype set. Keep an eye on the For Sale section for anyone interested in the slightly darker set.

I'm not sure about all custom CV shaft makers, but with DriveShaft Shop for instance, all you need to do is measure from the inside of the stub axle to the input sleeve of the differential and they make the necessary length for you. They provide instructions on what they need and how to measure on their website. I measure according to their instructions and they made me what I needed.

Actually I did! I saw your studs first and loved them but if you recall we discussed how the shipping for such a small item would be more than the studs themselves almost.