EMWHYR0HEN

I think the combo you mentioned will be fine. A lot of people here run illuminas for dual purpose and like them.

If you want to lower your car more than 2'' and have a proper amount of shock travel left your going to have to section your struts. This is really important if your going to drive you car on the street and also if your going to track it once in a while. There's lots of info here about sectioning and shortening struts if you search through the archives. If you don't want to go that route, the illumina's you linked will do fine with the AZ car coil overs if you dont bottom the shock out as they are the stock length. IMO there really isn't a point in getting adj. coil overs when paired with a strut that is the stock lenth becuase your very limited to how much you can lower the car properly. Another option might be getting some lowering springs instead of coil overs.

I wouldn't worry about it considering the thicker ones are a bit more ridged and the weight is down really low. Just keep most of the heat on the thicker SFC and youl be fine. Good luck!

Not really into the 2 tone on s30's but your car is the one exception for me. It looks good with your wheels, body work and aero combo. I Like!

I don't understand the point you were trying to make...

You didn't mention if you were interested in other schools outside of your area but, Cal Poly San Luis Obispo is one of the best engineering schools in CA. IMO UC schools tend to be more theoretical then CSUs.

Tnanks for sharing Joel. Man, that thing cooks!

I'm currently running an NA RB25DE in my S30 and Iv'e actually considered both a carbed setup and a FI setup with ITB's. Both of which I don't consider to be the best bang for the buck upgrades but, definatly unique and cool sounding. However, here are the ups and downs. Going carbs would enable you to keep most of your stock fuel systems whereas with an FI setup it would be best to upgrade your gas tank, fuel hardlines, and a bigger fuel pump. For both applications you would have to fab a custom intake manifold for carbs or an ITB setup. The last major thing for the carbed setup would be to ditch the stock direct fire ignition system and make your own ignition system and for the ITB FI setup, you would have to leave the MAF sensor and switch to a MAP system or standalone. If your searching for more power I'd look into doing some of the old school tricks like larger disp.(RB30), headwork and maybe some bottom end work, cams, injectors, and some ECU tuning. but that's just my 2 cents.....

Junk Yards maybe?

I'm not the greatest photographer...

Opps sorry, I missed that! Ive got to stop jumping to conslusions....

Really nice craftsmanship on that exhaust system. Just curious on why you used 3'' for an NA application. Plans to go turbo?

First of all welcome! The floor panels from MSA come with the rails which both are stock replacemnt parts. I believe the Bad Dog rails go right over the stock existing floor rail which then connect to the rear subframe. Check out the sticky about the Bad Dog rails which was posted by Jon M. It's in the brakes, wheels suspension, chassis forum.

What's up Leon, wondrin where youve been... Howd them parts work out for you?

Thanks for your input Dave. PM Sent.

That's a hard size to come by, especially a tire with a good compound. Your next best bet is going with some slicks.

Sorry to hear about the damage, But most importantly no one got hurt so consider your self lucky. The exact same thing happend to a friend of mine on a canyon drive and totaled his car smacking a gaurd rail and almost fell off a cliff. I hope it's a lesson for everyone. If you run spacers/hub adapters, remove your wheels and inspect the lug nuts periodically! A little locktite doesnt hurt either, just for peace of mind.

Falken Azenis RT-615 or Kumho V710, as already stated. I did a combo of both at a track event, great tires.

Unless it's deteriorating, I wouldn't change it because new ones probably won't make the ride any better. If anything, take a look at your LCA bushings, steering rack, and rear suspension bushings. Youl find more change in your ride if you replace those because their probably in bad shape if their original.

I say do it! Most people don't see it, but there is hardly any room there esp with t/c area enclosed. speaking of the t/c area.. I already went over kill with .125'' tubing for the frame rails. The way I see it is what's some sheetmetal going to do for the t/c area that's already boxed with beefy metal. something in my mind tells me it's not worth the weight. I'd sure put a diagonal inside before I enclosed it with sheet, plus I already made my exhaust!

Thanks for the compliments! - Dave, the muffler heating the tire is my main concern. I'll probably just wrap it again with better heat sheilding. -Hanson, I know what you talking about. I actually wanted to do that at first towards the rear of the rocker, but didn't want a hole there so straight through the fender it went. There's only so much room to play with because of the wheel turning and all. Heres a little sound bit I recoreded today. It's loud, so for my neighbors sake I only reved it to 5k max. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JyVR8y8Z7LI

HAhahahahaha. Please tell me it was the 17 year old kid who works for you that put the wheels on like that.... Glad you solved your problem. Hahahahha