BRAAP

No that is a differnt spin on making something old worthy of being a daily dirver. Thanks for sharing...

I’m sure there has to be someone near by that could/would help repair your damaged frame rails. How extensive is the damage and what kind of damage is it, i.e. rust, improper jacking, car bottomed out hard over curb, etc? Pics? As for frame rail reinforcement, what kind of reinforcement are you thinking about, (just bolstering existing or designing a complete front strut to rear strut tube frame?). How are you planning to drive the car, (i.e. dedicated road course car, strip car, street car?), and just how crazy is your Turbo swap, i.e. stock or mild/moderate power increase over stock say around 300-400 HP, or stupid-crazy 700+ HP! (around here, we like stupid-crazy power)

Love the reason for edit...

Thank you for being “aware” and respectful. As Larry says, members like this give the Admins a warm fuzzy feelin. Thank you, Paul Ruschman HybridZ Staff

Maybe I’m missing something here or possibly you forgot to mention a specific that has not been covered, but I am pretty sure that all R-200 differentials are capable of being converted to LSD regardless of the ring and pinion ratio. If that is indeed the case, then all of these threads linked below were should be of help to you ALL of these threads are “stickies” and pertain to the Datsun Diff and cover various LSD's and located right here in this drive-train section, at the very top above this post. Click ME for; Differential / CV / LSD / HP / Torque / R160 / R180 / R200 / R230 / Diff Mount Click ME for; Talkin the talk... q45 r230 r200 z30 & so on & so on Click ME for; OBX vs Quaife (with pixors) Click ME for; Adding Clutches to the CLSD R200 Click ME for; R200 LSD's and breakaway SHIMMING DONE!

The subject of engine weights is a touchy subject for some members, myself included. Just as an example, you can scour the internet and find where people are claiming that the SR20DET weighs anywhere from 200-500 lbs, the RB has been quoted between 200-500 lbs. (those numbers are purely arbitrary only to the make point). This holds true for ALL power plants. There really is no definitive standard for how these weight quotes are established and what is or is not included in those quotes, which makes it really tough to find some definitive weight figures. So when you read all these weight quotes on the internet, you have to ask yourself, who do you believe? What ancillaries were installed for that weight quote, etc? A weight figure with NO qualification as to the source of that figure and NO information such as did the engine have oil and residual coolant in the passages when it was weighed, did that included alternator, P/S pump, A/C compressor, intake and/or exhaust manifolds, was it weighed on 1970’s bathroom scales, etc, in my opinion, is totally useless information… I started a “Definitive engine weight” thread here on HybridZ in hopes it would help answer question such as yours. There are a few power plants listed in that thread, but not the ones you are asking about, yet, sorry. The HybridZ definitive engine weight thread

Nah... I heard it was more like .03 Farads. Good chance I’m wrong though. Maybe a real expert could “weigh” in on this?...

Were you able to find the answer to this question? I’m not sure what wires you are referring to. You mentioned Pin 3 of some connector has these wires? If you already have your answer, I apologize for resurrecting an old thread.

Do you have the stock 280-Z rear sway bar in place? In reverse, the nose of the diff wants to come “down” and with rubber diff bushing, the nose of the diff will come down a little and with the larger diameter GM driveshaft and U-joints, the clicking/clunking sound you are hearing could be the diff input shaft/driveline U-joint rubbing on the sway bar. Just a thought.

Sorry, the S-30 Z did not come with an oil pressure “light”, only an oil pressure “gauge”. You must be referring to the oil pressure sender which has switch in it for turning off the fuel in the event of serious crash, i.e. roll over.

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Balance bar is on backwards. *** edit *** HA HA, beat you to it Ron!

Thank you for searching, but you forgot to more accurately “title” your thread, so I helped a little…

Nope, not yet... Give it a few days. Not all members frequent the forum every day, some only visit the forum at work during the week.

…You mean like this below? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127931 The link to the spammers blog looks just as he originally posted but, I feel it is “now” much more appropriate... check it out…

Ok. lets nail this down. 1) You have a measured 40 PSI at the injectors while cranking. 2) The car finally sputtered briefly. 3) Injectors removed, noted only 2 injectors (new/used OE S-30 injectors) sprayed fuel while triggered. Kind of sounds like either the injectors are stuck closed or you have faulty connections at the injectors themselves. Just swapping out injectors and fuel rail, sounds more like stuck/froze/corroded injectors than connections. First, lets get the batch vs. sequential injector firing myth/theory squared away, for the 10,485 time. The S-30 and S-130 injectors and firing orders. The numbers on the injector wires are only there to confuse people. No really. Those numbers serve no purpose other than to set the wiring so that the wire lengths all match up nice neat and purty like. The S-30/S-130 injectors are fired batch mode. They all fire at the same time, each and every time. It makes ABSOLUTELY no difference WHAT-SO-EVER what order you swap the injector plugs, the engine will run EXACTLY the same every time and the injectors will fire exactly the same at the exact same time, PERIOD! Of course, so long as the connection is good. The S-30/S-130 injectors are a low impedance injector and as such utilize a dropping resistor, one per injector, which reside next to the clutch master cylinder. The location is not important. If you have an old EFI wiring harness laying around, cannibalize one of the injector connectors, or water temp, Thermal time, cold start injector, or IAC connectors with and extended pigtail on it, +36” in length. With injectors on the fuel rail, fuel system pressurized, The injector to be tested dangling in a clear glass/fuel safe jar, go through each injector. (Please OH please, be VERY careful as you are spraying fuel near an electrical source, i.e. the battery. Please use some sort of enclosed electrical switch/button to reduce the risk of fire. PLEASE!!!!!) You want to trigger those injectors directly from the battery, hence the +36” pigtail length. Don’t hold the injector open for any period of time longer than 5 seconds or so, just for quick short bursts at full battery voltage, (no dropping resistor) in an effort to “unstick” a possible stuck pintle valve. Note the spray pattern. Typical OE S-3-/S-130 injectors have a shallow stream/squirt gun like pattern, especially compared to modern injectors. It should be conical in shape, not too heavily biased in any direction.

We need some more info, i.e. 240/260 with carbs, 280 Z/ZX, or 300 ZX with the OE EFI? Stock, modified, if modded, what mods? Knee jerk reaction to your post is fuel flow issue, clogged fuel filter, faulty fuel pump. Fuel filter should be replaced annually any how, they are inexpensive, so I would start there.

Glad to hear that you found the problem. Not that it matters now, but were you able to confirm the details of the issue? Internally shorted battery? Oh c’mon.. You can’t tease us with a line like that and no pictures, let alone a story to go with it?.....

It is completely and totally acceptable to reuse L-series rocker arms. Domestic V-8 engines with the flat tappet rotating style lifters, this would be a BIG no-no. With the non rotating flat wiping over head cam L-series, reusing rocker arms is fine, but only if the rockers are in good condition. If the rockers to be used have any sort of excessive wear or the typical high mileage/poor oil/tuneup maintenance L-series “divot” in the rocker, discard that rocker, do NOT use it! If you have the budget, new rockers are always sound advice, but not necessary if you have a set of rockers in good overall condition. If a rocker is at all questionable throw it away or use it as a fishing weight. If what I’m saying isn’t enough to convince you it is ok, keep in mind that Rebello uses “seasoned” rockers on some of their GT racing L-series engines without failure. If that isn’t enough testimony for you, then by all means, purchase new rockers. You will be well served. You can even order them through Rusch Motorsports…

Yeup! Exactly! Good point Tony. In that example, my money is on car parts scattered across the shop floor… It seems that most of you guys are on the right track and saying the same thing yet getting your panties in a wad over specifics, (myself included)… Power. The rate at which energy is being released vs the ability of the parts in question to absorb the release of said power. If a part fails, then that busted part had obviously experienced more “force” than it was designed to absorb. Shock loading is just a fancy term for, “a lot force being exerted rather quickly”. A part will fail at a given “force” load. If that force load is exceeded, that part will fail. Generally speaking, the drive train in our cars are designed to absorb and transfer considerably more force than our engines produce via the combustion events alone. Now lets make an attempt to exert more force to the tires from a dead stop, i.e. accelerate quickly. In the drag racing community, this scenario is referred to as “launch”. When you launch your car from rest, engine revved up, the engine and all its rotating and reciprocating components are about to release a great deal of stored up energy above and beyond that being produced by the combustion events. The sum of that energy varies with flywheel/clutch mass, diameter, (polar moment), rate at which you side-stepped the clutch pedal, etc. Ever notice how hard your stock L-28 Z car will snap your head back when you dump the clutch at high RPM in first gear from a dead stop? But only for a split second till the energy that was stored in the rotating mass has been absorbed, then the car accelerates with less authority solely on the force of the combustion events. Grab second gear, lots of RPM, dump the clutch again, neck snaps back for a split second,... Do this all over again and you hear a loud BANG, and the car doesn't move any more! The designed torque rating of a part was exceeded, tow bill and parts bill exceeds wifes allowable "stupid tax" limit.

This ship engine has been posted on this forum at least 3 different times that I have seen myself, maybe more. The last time was within the last 30 days! It is cool, thank you for sharing, but it has been posted before.

Oooops... Sorry. Keep reading... BTW, nice photography.

Personally, I prefer to cut the quill shaft down. The jury is still out if it really has benefit or not, though I am convinced that between "leaving the quill shaft to wobble around" vs "cutting it down", that cutting it down is the lesser of the two evils and eliminates the “possibility” of premature quill-shaft/front cover wear, whether that possibility exists, or not. Here is a thread talking about this exact situation… http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=802664

Uhmmm... well… I admit, I actually like it, and not just a little. Those taillights by themselves have that car-dolley/U-haul trailer look, but in this application with your placement and spacing, that actually looks pretty darn nice. Nicer than other round taillight conversions I’ve seen. Do you have any camber in that panel or is it “flat” ? Good work Jon, thank you for sharing with us.

Welcome back to Oregon. Beaver creek eh? Being in Sandy, were practically next door neighbors. I'm sure we'll see you around. Take care, Paul