denny411

I would definitely check your fuel pressure. How about the fuel pump relay? If it were bad or on the way out, it could cause such an intermittent problem.(mgb`s are notorious for this) The fuel filter would be the cheapest and easiest to replace first. If the car runs fine after you replace the filter, but then starts to run bad again, I would lean towards a rusted fuel tank. Next to check would be the pickup coil and/or ignition module in the distributor.(not sure if the 76 had a module in the dist?) It could still be a vacume leak as stated above. If so, the most obvious place to check would be the EGR valve, and then your brake booster. If they all check out , I would say the ecm has to be bad. If none of these fix your problem, My only recomendation would be to install a sbc withan automatic/manual transmission of your choice, a holly carb,msd ignition,and a fuel cell with a holly fuel pump and regulator. This should cover all the possibilities GOOD LUCK

Do you already have a JTR manual? If not..I would recomend getting one asap. Use it and this site to pass the time, and you will be ready to dive in to that v8 swap when you get home. I would also suggest hoarding your money like a packrat while you are away. These projects have a way of snowballing from the "while I`m at it syndrome" I think JTR carries almost everything you will need, but if you are interested in saving some money, Many of the pieces can be had from most salvage yards. Good luck on the swap

I`ll look at my wife`s MGB tommorow sometime. If I remember correctly... The MGB does NOT have a rod at all. I think it just has a pad that trips a mechanism directly on the door latch. The door latch is very close to the top of the door.

Does the shaft in the distributor still spin freely? If the bushings starved for oil, The shaft could have bound up and caused the teeth to sheer. You could also check the shaft to be sure that it is perfectly straight. It could cause it to bind at operating rpm if it is bent slightly. The worst part will be the cleanup. You will have to be VERY sure that you have all traces of the destroyed gear removed from the engine. Small pieces have a way of getting into the worst places. i would recomend cleaning the oil pump and pickup screen to be sure that none of this debris has worked its way in there. If some has, and your oil pump bypasses(maybe on cold startup when the oil is thickest) your problems will be much more serious. Good Luck finding the problem.

It`s much better that it let loose on him than you on you maiden voyage.

I`ve been caught in the rain on a bike at 80+, and I can say that large rain drops at that speed feels like someone throwing a fistfull of gravel at you.

I`ve never been an advocate of only changing bearings. From my personal experience I`ve found that whenever you have a rod bearing failure, There is usually some other reason for the failure. Maybe low oil pressure, or maybe foriegn debrit in the oil. Both of these can cause crank damage as well as bearing damage. If you attempt to change only the bearing. Be absolutely sure that the crank is within specs for taper,diameter, and out of round. Also be sure that there are no visible marks or scatches in the finish of the journal. These can usually be felt by dragging your finger nail across the journal to feel for scoreing or scratches. If you feel any roughness, and have anything other than a smooth polished finish to the jounal, regardless of any other specs. I would recommend replacement or regrinding the crank. the reason for resizing the rods after a bearing failure is...When the rod bearing wears creating enough extra clearance for the rod to knock,It can have a tendancy to warp or egg shape the rod end. This can cause clearance issues that may not be detected by plasti guage, and could effect the proper lubrication of the bearings.

The ringing noise at the beginning has me puzzled could be a problem with the starter or ring gear? The knocking noise sounds like the rod bearings are shot. If so it going to need a crank,resized rods, and all new bottom end bearings, as well as a thorough cleaning. Might be cheaper to get a reman short block in the end?

You could have a very late 78 that has been titled as a 79. what is the body style? does the vin# start with S30...? It used to be standard practice to label cars manufactured after september as the following year. For example, a 78 280z manufactured on sept, 1 1978 might be labeled as a 79 280Z. More recently the car manufactureres have expanded this policy. The most extreme case I recall was the 1997 ford f150. They were actually on dealer lots in the early summer of 1996.

What kind of prices do they have for coating hearders? I would like to get my headers,sidepipes and burn guards coated.

How many miles is it round trip, and how many hours is it supposed to take? Have you gotten directions from mapquest?

I bailed at 6 seconds

I`ve had two of my cars damaged by hit and run drivers. I tracked the first one down by crossing the part#`s from a marker light left at the scene, and the paint color on the side of the car. I then just kept my eyes open for that make and color of car with damage to the right front corner. I ran the other driver down when I personally saw him burning rubber to get away. Luckily I was up at 2:30am working on the Z. Good luck finding the culprit. The city cops in my area aren`t smart enough, or ambitious enough to track them down. If the other driver doesn`t leave some piece of wreckage that just happens to have their Name, date of birth, address, home phone#, work phone#, blood type, social security #, and their mothers maiden name, you will have little luck pursuading the police to pursue them. Don`t count on uninsured motorists coverage paying anything either. i found out after the first time that they will ONLY cover damages IF they can prove the other driver was uninsured.

"The pictures speak for themselves"? There is only one profile pic from 30+ feet away!? What that pic tells me... I`m scared to show you any close up shots, or any other angles, because you might realize you are getting HOSED.

Cool Deal . I have come to the realization that Too big is NOT big enough for a garage. Someday I`m going to build a 100'x200' all steel building. Then MAYBE I`ll have enough room for all of my stuff and still be able to work.

Still not a bad deal at 3500. I kinda like it.

Did you use teflon sealant on your head bolts, and use a good quality torque wrench? Many times these problems are due to improper torque sequence(warping the head) and improper torque spec(too loose).

My breakfast this morning consisted of, two fun size Snicker bars and a can of Mountain Dew . This is not my usuall breakfast, but sometimes I get in too big of a hurry.

I`ve got the sanblaster too. I do have a ball joint/bushing press that is specifically made for this type of job. It worked great for rebuilding the control arms for my 71 Chevelle. I hope it works as well on the Z.

CRAP!! I`ve got to do bushings next . Luckily I DO have a 1)Torch 2)Air hammer 3)Press.

I`m in the middle of the WORST job right now. I`m fabbing up 3.5 inch side pipes and fenderwell headers with 3/4"primaries, 3.5" collectors, and all mandrel bent pipe. Lots of cutting and welding

VERY. There have been a few z`s w/ r200`s running in high 9`s and low 10`s with as much as 700 rear wheel hp and nitrous. Unless there is something already defective, an R200 should hold up to 300/350hp with relative ease.

That is what I like about the Z`s. It feels like your straped into the cockpit of an airplane. I don`t see many pilots hanging out the window of their rides.

I dump it in with my used motor oil and recycle it at advance auto.

I like both. I would be interested in at least two adult size XL, and two childrens if they are offered. Also would be interested in embroidered hats,two adults and two childrens.