denny411

I would buy a headlight kit like that if someone offered it. As said above, that is the ONLY headlight mod for the z that I really like.

What vented rotors do I use with the 87-89 4runner calipers if i want to stay with 4 lug wheels?

I`m pretty lucky I guess. My wife likes cars and car shows, and HATES jewelry.

If you heat the heads of the bolts and quench them with COLD water, the fast contraction will draw some water into the theads. Not only does this lubricate the threads but the cotraction helps to break away the corrosion and oxidation. As you losen the bolts, back them out until they get tight and retighten before backing them out further. You may have to do this several times to help clean the threads off.

Advance Auto Parts carries them. I think they cost around 7.00 Or you could order a catalog from here, http://www.natauto.com/ and get one for 2.95

My opinion of ricers is based on there attitude. A true ricer is the one who brags about how much better fwd imports are over rwd domestics. They are the type who look at the Fast and the Furious as "the best movie ever". I don`t have a problem with these guys working on and building imports or fwd`s. More power to`em . I just thenk they need to be realistic whem argueing the capabilities of their cars. Hell, when I was in high school i drove a 74 super beetle. The car was relatively quick(for a VW), but I never would have claimed that the stripes and window tint made my car faster than the challengers,camaros,and chevelles that others were driving. Most of the people I consider to be ricers are followers, and only do things to there cars to be like others. They buy civics and the like because everyone else drives them. I bought my 280z because I remembered one from when I was a kid and always liked the body style. Not because someone else drove one. In fact the 240 that I remember was totaly stock. I never even seen the car on the road. it always sat parked in front of a garage down the street and was so rusty that it wasn`t even safe to drive(it was less than 10yrs old) When I decided to put a V8 in it, I had never even seen or heard of anyone doing this. I just wanted it to be unique. I now know that the hybridz concept is not unique at all, but I plan to make my car as unique as possible, FOR ME

Good job Alot of guys out there would have screwed around with it even longer and swore up and down that "IT CAN`T BE THE MASTER CYLINDER" Some times you have to question the competance of the parts people

I admire people with the dedication and skill that it takes to accomplish such a feat. I am totally amazed by the car. I personally would not/ could not have built such a car, and could never see spending so much time on a car that could never be driven.

Napa sells Red Kote, It works well for sealing fuel tanks and only costs about 20.00

I would recommend replacing the whole set of rod bearings, and running at least 10/40 or possibly 15/45 oil. It should buy you a little time.

I`ll have to disagree here. What most of us did 20yrs ago was what we could afford to do. I personally was lucky to have gas money, let alone HP mod money. example, my alternator went out and I had to charge my battery everyday for 2 months and run with only my parking lights at night(unless there was oncoming traffic)until I could afford a USED one. What confuses me about the younger crowd is how much they spend to look good when that money could better be spent on "real" performance parts. Oh well, To each his/her own. My .02

The knock you are hearing could be from a worn or defective timing chain tensioner. 3.8`s are notorious for the plastic glide coming off of the tensioner. This allows the timing chain to knock agaist the cover. NEVER disconnect the plug wires on an electronic ignition system while the engine is running. The high voltage arc could fry the module when it is searching for a ground. You should disconnect them one at a time and ground them with the engine off. Then start the engine to listen for knocks. You should also have the plug out of the cylinder in question. if it is a slight rod knock you may be able to get away with swapping rod bearings alone but who knows how long it will last. you may be just as well to use 20/50 oil.

Pretty much. luckily I have a plasma cutter that made easy work of cutting out the sections that I didn`t need. I tried to cut leaving as much of the sides as possible. You will need to spread the existing metal as wide as possible to fit the tubing inside. it will not slide in easily,but If you car is on jack stands it should be relatively easy to use a floor jack to lift the rear into place. Push the front of the tube inside the stock frame seection just where the rail starts to curve up into the engine compartment.

I just pounded down the high spots, tacked both ends in and pouned the floor back down from inside the car while gradually welding the side of the original rail to the new tubing. Once i had everything where I wanted it, Then I welded them solid down both sides an at the ends.

Another of my favorites, "Christine" I can`t remember the name of this one, but it has a very nervous guy driving a red Dart/Valiant being chased through the rockies by an old semi tanker truck. the tanker eventually runs of of a cliff.

That`s "Dirty Larry, Crazy Mary" One of my favorites, along with the original "Vanishing point" and the original "Gone in 60 Seconds". Don`t forget that The Dukes of hazard started as a made for tv movie, and was MUCH better than the regular episodes.

Well I burned some midnight oil tonight and knocked out my frame ties. I went with a similiar style to pparaska`s ties but did not have to cut the floor at all. I used 1 1/2"x2 1/2" 3/16 wall tubing, and cut down the sides of the original frame rails. I then fit the tubing inside the original frame rail and mitered the ends to tie them into the rear of the car. I welded a continuous bead down both sides and completely around the ends. as they are, i could coat them with undercoating and almost nobody could tell I will try to post some pics later.

The price seems a little high to me for the frame ties. I`ve got less than 50.00 in materials. It should take about 8 to 10 hours for me to do both sides. A proffessional fab shop should be able to do them in half the time because they have better equipement and more experience than I do. I can`t really say about the cage. I bought mine as a kit and haven`t installed it yet. The price sounds somewhat in line with what one of the local speed/fab shop charges. I guess if they have a good reputation, that has to be worth something.

I guess it`s a car for those who really like the ZX roof and tailights.

They run from front to rear. You can install frame ties or frame rails with the engine/trans installed. There is another section behind the seats that runs cross ways that can be connected and "tied" to the rails that run under the seats.

Lookin good. I`m hoping to have mine ready for paint in a couple weeks.

I bought one of the "cheapies" at a swap meet. Surprisingly, it has held up very well. I bought a few extra cutting bits for it, but haven`t had to use them yet. I`ve cut probably 30-40 spot welds and it sems just as sharp as new. It only cost about 6.00

One of the worst things you can do to brake parts is to leave them sit unused.

I had the same trouble when ordering my mandrel bent exhaust from Schoenfeld. All of my pipe,bent pipe and gaskets and flanges were to be 3.5", but when they arrived, The flanges were 3" and the gaskets were 2.5" I noticed the differences in size as soon as I opened the box. Apparently they are hireing blind people to work in their shipping dept.

How about selling rolls of saran wrap as universal fit seat covers. Use "Buy it now" for twenny too fitty