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rturbo 930

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Everything posted by rturbo 930

  1. +1 IMO, if you're in it for the money, you bought it for the wrong reasons.
  2. +1 for pre-made floor pans. When people replace the floors with flat metal, it just looks cheap and half assed IMO. Considering how nice the rest of the car is, I'd definitely go to the effort to do it right.
  3. A lot of that looks like very minor rust. Take some good, clear, close up pics of the various areas so we can see a bit more detail. In the last pic, I see some minor pitting, but I don't think it's worth cutting out and replacing. I think I'd treat it and call it good. But your pics are kinda blurry, so I'm not sure. Looks like a lot of it is at the front of your floors. If it definitely needs replacing, I think I would just take it out in one big chunk, and replace that. From about where that patch is welded in already, and forward, I would cut that out and replace it, and just do a patch for that little guy towards the back near the rocker. Not as big a project as doing a total floor replacement, but probably easier than doing a bunch of separate patches. There's a number of ways you could do it though.
  4. Yeah, I prefer the Z 5 speed too. I had a short shifter in my E30, couldn't stand it. WAY too notchy. Even now after putting the stock shift lever back in, it's a bit notchy for my taste. Might be something wrong with my trans, but I'm thinking more likely, it's just their nature.
  5. The car you drove likely had old, worn out bushings in the shifter assembly. The G260 is a fine transmission, but IMO pointless to try to adapt it to a Datsun. I'd sell it to someone with a BMW. Good engines, except for that damn timing belt. Needs a chain.
  6. You're not doing anything wrong, that's just how it's set up here. Really annoying though, IMO. Hate it. You can put more than one pic in a post though. As for the rust, uh, yikes! It sounds like you have experience doing rust repair, and the tools to do it, but that's going to be difficult to repair no matter what. And I bet there's plenty more still uncovered. Even considering the Z's rarity in the UK, I would still consider doing a chassis swap if I were you.
  7. Your doors should be the late style doors that only came on 77/78 US 280Zs. They are not compatible with early models and you will need to find some 77-78 specific doors. Most likely, any FG doors currently on the market are not the right ones.
  8. Yeah, at this point, I think I'd like to avoid giving the Z any more time in the spot light. Prices are going up fast enough as it is.
  9. We do? Regardless, 1000hp in a stock chassis isn't a good idea.
  10. 280z strut towers are taller, so I wouldn't expect it to fit.
  11. Looks like a good place to start from IMO. But, I would also be ready the 'small' rust hole in the floor to turn into a big rust hole. Rust is almost always worse than it looks, and there will probably be a few rust issues that you find later on. But I don't see any big red flags. I'd probably buy it. Not sure if I'd buy it for $7k, but maybe that's what Zs in that condition are going for these days.
  12. Can't you just swap sliders? That would be a lot easier. I made both my stock 280z seats into desk chairs and the mounting points are about the same. If you have 240z seats though, I think the sliders are non-removable. But 280z sliders just bolt on.
  13. They should be interchangeable. Can you be more specific about the bolt holes not lining up?
  14. Uhh, I'd say you made the right decision. No way in hell would I try reusing that.
  15. Because the car engines are all aluminum, easy to find vs the few Al. truck motors, and about 100lbs lighter. If you're watching your weight, that's worth paying for.
  16. First, you have to keep in mind that for the first 6 years the Z was being made, not one of them had that piece you're taking out. It was added only for the 77-78 model years. So while it may not be a great idea to take it out, I really, really doubt it's going to have a big effect. If it were me, I'd just take it out and call it good. Second, thicker does not necessarily mean better. For example, when installing a roll bar or roll cage, I believe the max thickness in the rulebooks for the plates is something like 1/8" - if not that, definitely under 1/4". And 3/8" is thicker than 1/4" lol. Did you mean 3/16"? But I can't think of a single place on the car (maybe the tie down hooks/plates in front?) where 1/4" steel is used.
  17. Measure the thickness of whatever came out, and use that. 1/4" thick is waaay overkill. BTW, in the pic that Dan posted, it's not easy to see, but it looks like the floor goes across the top, so if you take that piece out, there won't be an opening into the rest of the subframe. No need to add anything back in.
  18. Derek hasn't even completed the first head yet, so any power numbers are just educated guesses. And, god forbid something happens and you damage the head beyond repair, you're in BIG trouble. And lets not forget that cams are completely custom. Derek's head is going to be interesting for sure, but I don't see it as an alternative to a swap yet. As for OP's question, I'd look into a BMW swap, specifically an M52/S52. They're easy and relatively inexpensive to find (M52 moreso), and respond well to boost which will easily get you 300hp. Ron Tyler already did this swap and documented it, so the hard work has been done. Parts are easy to find. They're also not too heavy - about the same as the L engine. The 2JZ is pretty damn heavy, if I'm not mistaken.
  19. Yes, bare. As I understand it, that means absolutely bare, not even machined. A 2JZ swap might cost 10k, but to say that Derek's DOHC head will be "cheaper than almost any swap" is really just not accurate. If you look through that thread, there are other price quotes for a more finished product, and it's over 10k. Here:
  20. How do you figure that? That head isn't going to be cheap by any definition of the word. $10-15k for just the complete head. Doesn't include EMS or any changes to the block.
  21. Ah, figured it had a gear assembly or something. Oh well.
  22. Hey, can you tell me more about that crank on your rotisserie? I've been looking for something like that.
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