rturbo 930

Your doors should be the late style doors that only came on 77/78 US 280Zs. They are not compatible with early models and you will need to find some 77-78 specific doors. Most likely, any FG doors currently on the market are not the right ones.

Welcome back!

Yeah, at this point, I think I'd like to avoid giving the Z any more time in the spot light. Prices are going up fast enough as it is.

We do? Regardless, 1000hp in a stock chassis isn't a good idea.

That looks horrendous...

280z strut towers are taller, so I wouldn't expect it to fit.

Looks like a good place to start from IMO. But, I would also be ready the 'small' rust hole in the floor to turn into a big rust hole. Rust is almost always worse than it looks, and there will probably be a few rust issues that you find later on. But I don't see any big red flags. I'd probably buy it. Not sure if I'd buy it for $7k, but maybe that's what Zs in that condition are going for these days.

Can't you just swap sliders? That would be a lot easier. I made both my stock 280z seats into desk chairs and the mounting points are about the same. If you have 240z seats though, I think the sliders are non-removable. But 280z sliders just bolt on.

They should be interchangeable. Can you be more specific about the bolt holes not lining up?

Uhh, I'd say you made the right decision. No way in hell would I try reusing that.

Because the car engines are all aluminum, easy to find vs the few Al. truck motors, and about 100lbs lighter. If you're watching your weight, that's worth paying for.

First, you have to keep in mind that for the first 6 years the Z was being made, not one of them had that piece you're taking out. It was added only for the 77-78 model years. So while it may not be a great idea to take it out, I really, really doubt it's going to have a big effect. If it were me, I'd just take it out and call it good. Second, thicker does not necessarily mean better. For example, when installing a roll bar or roll cage, I believe the max thickness in the rulebooks for the plates is something like 1/8" - if not that, definitely under 1/4". And 3/8" is thicker than 1/4" lol. Did you mean 3/16"? But I can't think of a single place on the car (maybe the tie down hooks/plates in front?) where 1/4" steel is used.

Measure the thickness of whatever came out, and use that. 1/4" thick is waaay overkill. BTW, in the pic that Dan posted, it's not easy to see, but it looks like the floor goes across the top, so if you take that piece out, there won't be an opening into the rest of the subframe. No need to add anything back in.

Derek hasn't even completed the first head yet, so any power numbers are just educated guesses. And, god forbid something happens and you damage the head beyond repair, you're in BIG trouble. And lets not forget that cams are completely custom. Derek's head is going to be interesting for sure, but I don't see it as an alternative to a swap yet. As for OP's question, I'd look into a BMW swap, specifically an M52/S52. They're easy and relatively inexpensive to find (M52 moreso), and respond well to boost which will easily get you 300hp. Ron Tyler already did this swap and documented it, so the hard work has been done. Parts are easy to find. They're also not too heavy - about the same as the L engine. The 2JZ is pretty damn heavy, if I'm not mistaken.

Yes, bare. As I understand it, that means absolutely bare, not even machined. A 2JZ swap might cost 10k, but to say that Derek's DOHC head will be "cheaper than almost any swap" is really just not accurate. If you look through that thread, there are other price quotes for a more finished product, and it's over 10k. Here:

How do you figure that? That head isn't going to be cheap by any definition of the word. $10-15k for just the complete head. Doesn't include EMS or any changes to the block.

Ah, figured it had a gear assembly or something. Oh well.

Hey, can you tell me more about that crank on your rotisserie? I've been looking for something like that.

Modifications don't add value. If your 240z is original, and you want to maintain its value, keep it all original, since that's what (most) collectors look for.

70-76 Zs didn't have those. Whether or not you should, I don't know, but I believe you can. As far as I know they're just an add on.

^That's the car I'm referring to. Yeah wheel fitment has to be pretty exact. IIRC Clifton used AZC's 5 lug conversion, which adds a bit of width, so that needs to be taken into consideration too.

I've seen a 275 under stock fenders with rolled lips, 17" wheels, and coilovers. Very snug fit though.

Gotta disagree with you there. The bodywork on that car looks immaculate, and it looks very clean and understated. I personally wouldn't touch it, not even the bumpers. I think it's perfect as it sits.

I believe 240Zs had a 3.36 rear end.

Given that you want to keep it as stock as possible, I think you might find yourself more at home on classiczcars.com. That looks like a very nicely preserved Z though. I think I'd keep it stock too - that one is simply too nice to modify, and they're only original once. I agree with 310z - keep the 4 speed in storage and install a 5 speed. In a '72, I believe that's a bolt in swap, so you can put it back to stock without a trace. Same with the radiator - keep the original, and swap in an aluminum one which will cool better.