rturbo 930

If the VIN is correct (HLS30) then it better be on the left.

I'm not really sure what you're asking, and there's no pictures. What, specifically, would you like to know? Based on the VIN (4xxx) it sounds like a somewhat early 1970 240z. if it's numbers matching, and the car is in decent shape, maybe it's a restoration candidate.

I've noticed recently a bunch of site features are gone, like the 'like' button, but now I've just noticed that the members list is gone? Why? I'm trying to find some content, and I know who it's by, but I can't remember the exact username, and I can't search the member's list to find the person. Where did it go?

73 Zs have slightly different 2.5mph crash bumpers. Bumpers might be the same 70-72, although the bumper from my '72 Z isn't quite the same as the early '71 bumper I have, but there could be other reasons for that.

That thing rips!

I would think a good shop could fix that. I wouldn't scrap it.

Yeah, a good respray will make it look a lot nicer, of course, it's just that you'd be selling to a slightly different market than a respray in the original color, and likely for a little less money as well. But no doubt it'll make the car a lot nicer, and an OE color will be better than an aftermarket color.

I'll offer you another option, since you seem to be interested in the car's value as a collector - have the car painted in the original color, and then have the car vinyl wrapped in the color of your choice. And, since it's just a wrap that you can peel off whenever, you can wrap it whatever color you like. As a bonus, the wrap will also serve to protect the paint underneath. Since you're doing an engine-in respray, meaning the car is clearly not doing a complete color change (inside, outside, everywhere), this paint job isn't going to help the value of the car in that regard, and a collector who wants an original car will have to have the car repainted anyway.

What's the original color? That's what I would go with. If you're going to repaint it a different color, and want to maintain the car's value to a collector, you'll need to do a complete color change. These cars never had a build sheet or anything, so as long as the color is correct for the year, and done properly, no one would ever know that the color was changed. Personally, I think 904 white would sell better than 113 green metallic. Not really a fan of 113. I think you'll get better answers to a question like this on classiczcars.com.

CZCC = classiczcars.com Good on ya for sticking with an L series. Too many people ditch them for something else because they assume it's a bad motor because it's old. Or that they have to have 600hp to have fun with the car. Foolish. What about doing a stock rebuild yourself on the L24, and getting an L28 to send out for a performance build? That way you can stow away the stock, matching numbers L24 in case you, or another owner, ever decide to put the car back to bone stock original.

One thing you need to keep in mind that at a mile in elevation, your 240hp is going to be closer to 300 at sea level. My understanding is that 250hp isn't really a high strung motor (by my standard of high strung), or particularly difficult to achieve, especially today.

Well, I can't help you unfortunately, but I have to wonder what on earth is wrong with your car that you need those!

You sure that's a D? I think that says V07. FYI, the diesel cranks are referred to as V07, not VD07. Compare to pics here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Nissan-Datsun-LD28-Maxima-Diesel-Crankshaft-240z-260z-280z-280zx-2-2-V07-/301731011455

Search for them on here, and you'll see that they have a terrible reputation.

What is that? An old Citroen?

He's on classiczcars.com.

Did this guy just buy ANOTHER 240Z to ruin? I didn't watch the video because I know it's going to annoy me, I just saw it in the sidebar. This guy is a moron, and now he's really starting to piss me off.

Looks like he gave up on the idea of a website, so maybe try the phone first.

Beta Motorsports is defunct, and John Coffey passed away two years ago. I believe Stan at Benchmark Composites has all of John's old molds, so your best bet would be to get in touch with him.

Rule #5 guys, I normally woudn't care, but a huge chunk of this thread is in German.

I've seen the odd Z with a VIN that doesn't quite match its build date. That one isn't all that far off. I don't really know for sure, but yeah, I'm guessing it got held up for some reason. Someone more knowledgeable can confirm, or correct me.

I believe it has been offered to the public as of only yesterday, so no, I certainly don't know anyone personally running one, it appears the only people running the kit at the moment are people who are close to ZCG. At a glance, I think it's a better kit than what Wolf Creek offers. Regarding the mustache bar, I don't know if there's a benefit to the aftermarket units available that I'm not aware of, perhaps there is, but it's not on my shopping list. Money better spent elsewhere IMO. Maybe you will expose a weakness of the stock mustache bar with 800hp, but I'm thinking you probably won't with 300 or less. I could be wrong, of course. Regarding the drop mounts, I believe I've heard that the stock ones are a bit flexible, but I think this can be solved with some simple reinforcement. I recall John C talking about this somewhere on here, but I'm stretching my memory a bit.

ZCarGarage just came out with a new bolt in CV kit that looks promising. http://www.zcarblog.com/2018/06/08/performance/parts-z-car-garage-cv-axles.html Not cheap though.

Do you have welding and fab experience? I wouldn't consider replacing the rocker to be easy, probably not a good first job, but doable if you're smart. Look really hard at the inside of the rocker, especially at the front and rear, you might find something that is not visible from the outside, or from a quick inspection. Additionally, if you do go through with a full rocker replacement, be aware that the replacement panel, due to how it is formed and what I imagine is a less than perfect die, tends to have a split at the crease in the rocker where the front fender meets the rocker, and this will need to be welded up. Tabco panels aren't very good, so as a general rule of thumb, if you don't need to use it, don't.

Is that all the rust there is, just on the top? Have you checked other areas inside the rocker to see if there is other rust? If that's all there is, I would just bend up some sheet metal to patch with and sell the rocker. The top of mine is kinda wavy, really not a great piece.