ktm

I made a template out of a single piece of cardboard. Once I got the cardboard template exactly how I wanted, I took the template and steel plate (1/8-in. plate) to a speed shop that does fabrication. I asked them to cut the plate and bend it to the shape of the template. I believe it cost me $40 to have them do the work but it turned out amazing.

You'd go apopletic if you had to change my fuses. I put a Painless 12 circuit fuse block on the interior side of the firewall where the heater core used to be located..... I wanted to put the PCM on the passenger side kick panel, but I have a 6-in. speaker there as shown in the picture, as well as Maxi-fuse block (2 fuses) for the fuel pump and electric fan. My relays are above the "PCM" fuse block which is located immediately above and slightly to the left of the PCM.

Plenty of leg room for the passenger unless they are 6+ feet tall, even then its not too bad. I am 5-ft 10-in. and my right leg is slightly bent, my left leg is able to extend fully (straight out). I live in Diamond Bar.

I mounted mine at the base of the firewall inside the car on the passenger side as shown below. This is an older photo and I've since cleaned up the wiring, etc.

The Arizona Z-car radiator does not have a drain plug either. As Tony stated, that's what the lower radiator hose is for!

Sounds like a few of us created a cradle that we attached to the underside of transmission tunnel.

Basically. I had a manual up until the LSx swap. The master cylinder is gone and I've put the clutch hardline in storage. This gives me the option of going to a manual in the future.

I installed a B&M Stealth Pro ratchet shifter on my LS1/4L60E setup. I have a 1972 240z and needed to trim the shifter opening slightly in the front and back. I created a cradle that bolted to the underside of the transmission tunnel below the shifter hole. The cradle holds the Stealth Pro so that the shifter arm is in the stock position and does not stand up very high.

A DTC is an error code that will normally throw a CEL or check engine light. If you have HP Tuners you can scan the PCM for the codes. If not, then you'll have to find someone who can scan the codes for you. If you have a smart phone, there is an application that uses a blue tooth ODBII module that you can buy for scanning codes as well. It sounds like it is happening when you are idling. I don't know how much more aggessive an LS6 cam is over that which came in the 5.3L, but if it is enough then your tune will be off. Idle tune is the hardest part of tuning a car, especially one with a cam. I would also search LS1tech.com for an answer.

I have them on my car. They are quite useable and are not loose. Definitely a good value (price versus quality). The viewable angle leaves a little bit to be desired Saying that, once you get used to the fact that these mirrors (and most vintage mirrors) are quite a bit smaller than modern ones, you start to get comfortable with them.

It's a few more wires, but I agree 100%. You have the fan low/hi wires, fuel pump wires (which are pulls to POWER and not ground, reverse of most operations), torque convertor lock-up if running the 4L60E and a few more if I recall correctly. The point as you made it, though, is spot on - the wiring is very easy. I used the stock F-body harness and was able to mount the PCM inside the car at the base of the firewall, right at the passengers feet.

I installed a 4L60E behind an LS1 in my 240z. The 4L60E has weak 3-4 clutch packs which seem to go out anywhere over 80,000 miles or so. They went out on my car so I had Xtreme Performance Transmissions build a unit for me for $1400. If I were to do the install over again, I would have had the transmission built before I did the original installation to save the hassle. I really did not feel like pulling the transmission myself so I had Xtreme do the install as well (another $400).

My old write-up and pictures: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/59693-dash-light-led-conversion-write-up/

While they could pull you over under any pretext if they felt like it warranted it not, I have found that they generally leave classic cars alone. My old turbo setup looked stock, but it was damn loud (3-in. DP, no cat, Borla XR-1 race muffler) and I would do 3rd and 2nd decels to a stop light with a in immediate ear shot. My LS1 is fairly loud (sets off car alarms when cruising through my neighborhood) and again, the cops have ignored me. That is not to say that I will never get pulled over though. As John stated, don't draw attention to yourself and you should be fine.

There is discussion in the cooling thread about coolant line routing: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/59029-head-cooling-on-cylinder-5-solutions/ For my old setup, I pulled from a tap between #5 and #6 (IIRC) and returned it to the feed side of the water pump. I had blocked off the port that goes to the heater core and removed that return line. You could return it to the lower side of the T-stat housing though. I did not because I also had a tap between #3 and #4 that I returned to that spot.

Here you go: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/100522-two-questions-tunnel-clearance-for-4l60e-jci-passenger-mount/page__p__942433__hl__4l60e__fromsearch__1?do=findComment&comment=942433

My Haynes manual is actually surprisingly detailed. Then again, it is an OOOOLD copy that the previous owner of the car gave me, who was given it by the owner prior to him, etc., etc.

You do realize that Braille dows not make their batteries but simply repackages Dekas. Google it. You can pick up a Deka for under $100.

Cell phone pics below: Posting Pictures: Please Read http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/98611-posting-pictures-please-read/page__pid__998203#entry998203 Please adjust your phones settings for image size.

It is still manually actuated when selecting Park, Reverse, Neutral, Drive, 3, 2 and 1. The PCM controls the shifting when it is in 2, 3, and Drive; the shifter just selects the gear. You would have to retrofit the linkage for the appropriate throw when selecting each gear though. Get it wrong and you could fry the transmission.

I use the PCM to control my fan, speedo and tach. I use Speedhut gauges so they have their own sensors that run to the gauges. I do not know about the 99s, but I do recall on the 98s that you need a resistor at the alternator field wire to drop the voltage or else you'll fry it if you give it a full 12 volts. http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1408951-98-ls1-wiring-harness-alternator-exciter-wire-what-should-voltage.html

Nardi swept spoke. PITA to find.

When I did my first install my ignition sequence was off too. Batch fire (or single coil) is oh so much easier.

Nothing fancy.

That really does sound like an exhaust leak I had at one time. Stick a shop vacuum at your exhaust (and plug the other side if running duals) and have it configured to blow air. Feel around any of the bolt connections (header collection to exhaust, header to heads, etc.). This works very well (I've done it numerous times) for finding leaks.