ktm

....and potentially noise restrictions as well. I don't think you realize just how loud it is going to be with that short of a run of pipe and it is going to be deafening at cruise as a street car. I am running a 3-in. system on my turbo setup through a Borla XR-1 muffler. It is loud at WOT and when cruising it is quite loud as well. The low frequency exhaust waves wear on you after a while. It looks great otherwise, but I would be concerned about heat bubbling the paint around the exhaust.

Thanks again to Zcar.com for this beauty : http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/garage/483462-welded-diff-what-hell.html#post1475861 Edit: Looks like an April Fools joke......I think.

Mayolives, it has nothing to do with having my nose in the air, so your statement is not appreciated. I was referring him to those sites simply because they seem to more readily answer the basic questions than Hybridz exactly for the reason you stated! If you open your eyes and look at how many basic questions go unanswered it is astounding. Zcar.com and Classiczcars.com are fantastic resources. I am a member of both and I routinely search there FIRST for simple questions because such threads here are usually not answered. It is a matter of which resource has the better information. This thread is a great example of what I am talking about. Its been three days and look at the (lack of) replies. What exactly have YOU contributed to this thread? Seems to me jack squat. I gave him resources to further his search for an answer. If you READ his first statement, he tried to search and could not really find an answer, again for the exact reason I just stated. 'been a long week and I am grouchy

This forum is dedicated to the modification (to the extreme in many cases) of the Z-series. Your questions are best answered over at www.classiczcars.com and www.zcar.com You will not find many threads addressing your questions here, but there is a wealth of information regarding the stock S30s (240z, 260z and 280z) at www.classiczcars.com

No it doesn't. The pilot bushing is installed in the crank shaft.

Following up Prox's post: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=141444&highlight=speedo I've been driving with this pinion for a while. It reads about 10 mph off (too fast) at a "measured" 75 mph, at least per the calcs I've done with tire size and gearing.

You still have the input shaft and pilot bushing issue to address. I agree 100%.

Three head gaskets and no ring damage myself. I guess it's a crap shoot.

You are going to love the Z31 tranny then. I just had my Z32 rebuilt after losing the 2nd gear synchros back in June 2008. I've been doing the 1st-3rd skip for 9 months. Very short, crisp throw, almost too short. You sometimes wonder if you are in gear.

Not if you are running a spacer.

Phil, I am assuming this is the later model Z31 trans you are using?

First gear is worthless in any tranny. I am running the Z32 tranny and first is useless. Second gear is really not much better.

How could you forget our own Monzter:

Buy the brake lines from Silvermine Motors for $75 for the pair.

What attworth is not saying, but rather implying, is that your fuel pump must be sized correctly. Fuel pumps are not spec'd the same way as sewer pumps, ground water pumps, etc. Most fuel pumping curves are shown plotted against voltage; what is important to note that in order to use the smaller lines, you need a true pumping curve shown in flow rate versus pumping head. You then need to determine your true pumping head when using the smaller lines. Using your power requirements as a baseline, you then determine an estimate of your fuel demand (flow rate). You then need some idea of what your pumping head will be. Smaller lines have higher losses per foot than larger lines. Fittings, bends, etc. are losses as well. Typically for a given pump, the higher the pumping head, the lower the flow rate. Keep in mind as well that the discussion where attworth pulled the text from was based on using OEM fuel lines that were already 5/16. This is larger than the stock 1/4-in. 240z feed line. You have to treat N/A and forced inducted engines differently. N/A engines are not nearly as sensitive to fuel tuning as a forced inducted engine. If a turbo'd engine leans out under high boost, you can blow an engine. Lean here could be 13:1; 13:1 is right around where N/A engine is tuned (lean best torque). You need a higher factor of safety when dealing with forced inducted engines. This is where larger fuel lines come into play as well as the entire fuel system design.

Be sure to stop by and say hi if I am around my car. MSA is 5 minutes from my office and the venue is 10 minutes (literally behind) my house.

Spooler, did you have the VENTED 4x4 setup or just the 4x4 solid rotor arrangement? I just installed the vented rotor/4x4 caliper and 240sx rear caliper upgrade and the improvement over modified stock (Power Slot rotors and Hawk HPS pads) was quite noticeable. In my opinion, Wilwoods are overkill on the street and are, as Z8RED stated, just for bragging rights. As John C and Jon are quick to point out, the stock brakes in good working condition are fine for street, drag and Auto-x use. I upgraded to the 240sx rear setup because I needed maintenance on my old drums. I was looking at new shoes and drums, possibly cylinders, and the cost of that setup was as much as the 240sx swap. It was a no brainer for me. I've experienced some brake fade on the stockers a few times and wanted to go with the vented setup for a while. I can lock-up all four wheels (245/50) with my setup, something I could not do with the stockers in their current condition (the fronts were new). The 4x4 S12W calipers are not that much heavier than the stock calipers. I would say that if you are worrying about unsprung weight, then why on earth are you running 16x8 wheels with larger tires? Saving weight on your calipers but running a larger, heavier wheel and tire combo is akin to bailing with a thimble.

Ron Tyler clued me into using a welding tip for the same purpose.

I just finished watching this vid on Youtube before you posted and wondered whose car it was. Very nice, sounds fantastic and those are some respectable numbers.

Braking performance will be reduced. You will have less pad area in contact with the rotor. When the pad starts to wear it may "cap" the edge of the rotor.

Sean, my Walbro is literally right next to my tank. I am using the stock 240z tank but I had the pickup and returns lines resized to 3/8-in. SS lines with AN fittings. The pickups were extended to the bottom of the 240z tank near the "sump". The SS braided hose from the pickup tube to the pump is maybe 8 to 10 inches long.

I am running a Walbro with -6 (3/8) feed line. No problem whatsoever.

I figured your compression would be higher than many of us running a stock L28ET block. However, I would review the Megasquirt forum and look at the sticky at the top of the page that talks about map sharing. There are a couple guys running turbo flat top builds at 15 psi who are running north of 17 degrees of timing at 15 psi. Your timing map, as I stated early on, also looks quite odd. Usually you do not jump 4 degrees of timing before and then after peak torque. It is a steady increase that is typically 1 degree per 1000 rpm after peak torque and a bit more rapid before. Again, check the MS forum and look at some of the maps on there. This is in addition to changing out that exhaust!