Miles

1. Set all of the mechanical brake adjustments, including the push rod, correctly. See push rod length adjustment above. You can do fine adjustment to the rod after the car is safe to put on the road without removing the MC. 2. Bench bleed the MC. Take your time and get all of the fine bubbles out. Make sure none of the fittings or plastic lines are sucking air. Transfer the MC to the car with the outlets plugged. Attach MC to brake lines loosely and then to the booster. Tighten the brake line fittings after the MC is attached to the booster. 3. Bleed brakes with a helper or use speed bleeders (check-valve style) or use a Motiv pump bleeder (what I use). The pump bleeder works well, but can be messy. On some calipers you have to remove the caliper, block the pistons, and shake/rotate the caliper while bleeding to get the air out. Be sure to block the pistons. If you don't block the pistons you will be very sad.

The piston needs to go full stroke.

Did you bench bleed the MC?

When bleeding calipers make sure that the bleeder is pointing up and not at an angle to get all of the air out.

The device under the MC is called a "differential pressure switch". In the event of front or rear pressure loss, it shuts off fluid going to the circuit that has the lowest pressure i.e, a leak. It also serves as the distribution block for the front and rear brake lines. When a leak occurs a shuttle inside the valve moves to the lower pressure side of the switch to stop fluid flow and the shuttle touches an electrical contact that turns a red light light on your dash. That is it. Leave it alone. See pictures. The calipers you installed require more fluid hence the longer pedal. If you have to pump the brakes then you still have air in the system. Recheck all of the mechanical linkage adjustments including the MC push rod and re-bleed the brakes.

Are you over thinking the problem? Research the function of a thermostat. I see you are in the Bay area where it tends to be cool. You haven't mentioned what the air temperature is when the water temp appears too cold. What are the temps on a 90 - 100 deg day? Perhaps you need to calibrate your temp gauge and sender by measuring actual water temperature with a digital thermometer (meat thermometer works). Place the probe between the fins close to where the return hose connects to the radiator. Could be that you just have an efficient cooling system!

Had similar problem on my first 240Z. I just took it to a "sun/moon roof shop and they matched the existing unit. Or you can measure the hole and research a replacement on-line.

http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf

Boy I don't know what Wilwood's problem is with making 10mm x 1.0 inverted flare adapters. A lot of Japanese cars use inverted flares.

I looked at this a long time ago. It is 10mm x 1.0 bubble flare. From Summit: Q: Is it an inverted flare or bubble flare on inlet and outlet? Asked by KENNETH on June 02, 2016 A: Thank you for your question. Wilwood Disc Brakes 260-12627 would have a 10 mm. x 1.0 bubble flare on both inlet and outlet. In 09 I checked with Wilwood. They had no interest in supplying 10mm x 1.0 inverted flare adapters or a PV with those specifications.

Flyn Miata metric to NPT adapter Flyin' Miata Search results for: 'M10 inverted flare to NPT adapters'

Do you have a source for a metric PV?

Look here also: http://brakequip.com/products/hardware/male-female-adapters/ http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/suzuki-off-road-parts/sidekick-tracker-x90/brakes.html Had the same problem years ago:

I am seeing a lot of references to bubble flares. Z cars should all be 10mm x 1.0 inverted flares. Bubble flares on a Z will leak.

Well said. An over built car is expensive and can be miserable to drive.

Check the steering rack bushings. They are inside the clamps that bolt the rack to the cross member. The originals are rubber and wear/rot out which allows the rack to move. If the bushings look worn, or there is any movement of the rack while moving the steering wheel, replace the bushings with polyurethane bushings. Also, failed rubber tension/compression (T/C) rod bushings can cause the car to dart under braking and to drift left - right. Do not replace the T/C bushing with polyurethane as it is too stiff and can cause failure of the T/C rod. Replace with stock rubber bushings only. The polyurethane and T/C rod bushings are available from Motor Sports Auto (MSA).

JUst go to the parts store and buy an electronic flash unit. It looks like the stock flash unit except it has a ground wire . Thats it. There are also electronic flashers that have an adjustable flash rate.

OK

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Not enough information. Basics: year and model of car Modifications to said car How is the car driven - daily driver, race etc

Thanks. Didn't pay much attention to the Taurus fan so I can't compare it with the Volvo. But from what I read, it uses the same fan motor. Works great. As soon as the gauge hits 185 deg F the fan kicks in and then off at 170 deg F. I was going to do a long road test but my Wilwood 1 inch MC failed today.

My experience with the Wilwood 1 inch MC has not been good. I have replaced three of them because they leaked right of the box. Now number four has failed. Wilwood should recall this product. Dave at Arizona Z Cars has 280ZX MCs and sells them for $129.00. Just ordered one.

94 -97 Volvo 850 electric fan Source: Summit Racing Dorman Electric Fans 620-883 $141.97 Painless Performance 30100 Electric 70 amp Fan Relay Kits p/n . $49 Comes with Maxi Fuse. Painless Performance p/n 30111 Fan Control, Thermostatic, 185 Degrees On/170 off (grounding) $47.9 Works perfect. Custom 19" H x 19.5" W x 1.5" Deep aluminum shroud by Mike Tolle Fabrication, Sacramento, Ca. Replaces failed Flex- a- lite Black Magic fan on Arizona Z Cars radiator. Note: All of the 30 amp Painless fan relay kits are wired to work with their grounding fan thermal switch. The Painless 70 amp relay kit is not. The Painless 70 amp relay kit is wired for the ignition switch or a fan switch to trigger the relay. I wired the relay to allow a grounding type Painless fan thermal switch to trigger the relay. When the thermal switch turns on, it grounds the relay which closes the relay and energizes the fan circuit. Not a problem if you are comfortable working with relays. You could do the same thing using a 70 amp Bosch relay and some wire. Painless website: http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/fanc

There are other weak points to consider in your build plan. The stub axles typically fail in two places, the tire mounting flange breaks off or the axle breaks where the threads meet the splines on the axle. See pictures. The flanges are easily warped which can cause problems with disk conversions. I had this problem when I did the Modern Motor Sports 240SX rear disk conversion. My rear brakes were dragging due to the warped flanges wobbling against the pads. Tried machining the flanges, but they were were too far out. When my Z was stock the driver's side stub axle broke while pulling away from a stop sign. Very loud pop when it let go. The solution to the above problems was the stainless steel stub axles now available from Modern Motor Sports. No more problems. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/stub-axles.html

Wilwood or Tilton 7/8 clutch MC works with the stock Camaro T5 slave cylinder. I have used both. I prefer the Wilwood MC as it is more compact. The Camaro slave cylinder uses a roll pin connection to the hydraulic line. Summit/Jegs etc sell a roll pin to AN adapter so you can connect stainless braided -3 AN hose to the clutch MC.