Miles

Can you post a picture showing where the rotor is contacting the caliper? Another issue that has come up here a few times is that the poster had the wrong rotor.

See post #12 in the link I provided above. The 240Z MM spacer I bought from Ross is 17.09mm thick (0.673in) Buy a digital caliper and measure the thickness of the spacer you have and then post what you get. Harbor Freight has the caliper for less than $30. If it is thinner than 17.09mm (0.673in) then you have the wrong spacer.

Yep. Techno Toy sells sells the spacers for the 240Z and 280Z. He may have bought the wrong spacer. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/z-rotor-spacers-s12w-4-piston-toyota-caliper-conversion

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/121985-s12w-on-73-z-mm-adapter-plate-issues/

Take the car to Autozone or Oreily's etc and they will check the alternator and battery for free. Then go from there. Also, a loose fan belt can cause those same symptoms.

Welcome. Suggestions: Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Search the forums. Read the new member FAQs. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49661-z-car-rear-disc-brake-conversion-brackets/page-8

This Motive Power bleeder is what I have been using to bleed brakes for about 12 years. Works good. I use the 0251 model kit that has the universal MC cap, but one of the other kits may have a cap that fits 240Z, 280Z, 280ZX and Wilwood MCs. https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/import-power-bleeder-kits

Same thing happened to me. I bought rebuilt Cardone 240SX rear calipers from O'Reily's. They were both filled with rust as if they had been submerged in water for a long time.

Describe the procedure you used to bench bleed the MC. What is the brake set up on the rear? Some rear brake "upgrades" place the bleed screw at an angle making it impossible for air to escape the caliper.

In the far left column you can customize what you want to see in "View New Content". Here is what is happening: I set the display criteria to "last 24 Hours. Each time I log out and log back in (hour, next day etc.) The selection criteria gets re-toggled to something different from "last 24 Hours" to "Members" or some other choice that I didn't select. Never did that before. Not a complaint. It just started doing this about the time of my post two weeks ago.

From post #21 above: Actually there is a procedure for diagnosing engine problems. For example, before checking the intake/carbs etc you should check and set your ignition system so you know if there are problems and have the timing/dwell/plugs etc mostly dialed in. After you correct the carb/intake problems go back and recheck the timing/dwell etc. Otherwise you are trying to diagnose a problem while dealing with too many variables. You learned a lot. Now on to the next problem.

As of 9/21/2011 Air Brake Repair Service Inc. dba Power Brake Sales 1517 McCormick St. Sacramento, Ca 95811 800-624-8185 916-446-7829 www.powerbrakes.com They had all of the parts to rebuild the booster in stock. Took less than a week. Cost to rebuild 280Z booster: $120.63 I bought the 1977 280Z booster at a wrecking yard for $50.00. Nisson Only wreckers 3561 Recycle Road Rancho Cordova, Ca 95742 916-631-8333 As I recall I used the 1977 280Z booster because the push rod matched the brake pedal clevis of the 240Z better than other year 280Z boosters. The treads of the 280Z booster push rod matched the 240Z brake pedal clevis. There is a thread in the brake section on this subject.

Lesson learned the hard way. I bought a V8 swapped 240Z in 2000 thinking that the with the basic swap complete it would save some time and cost. It didn't. Had to dismantle the car and reinstall everything the PO had done. Real horror show once I got into it. My second 240Z V8 project started with a well maintained completely stock two owner 72 240Z. Much easier to start from scratch not having to correct mistakes and poor craftsmanship made by the PO.

Agree with Seattlejester. It is an average build. Also, what is the quality of the build? Craftsman-like or a hack job?

I was going to use the Painless kit for one of my 240Z cars because the PO chopped up the engine bay wiring, but ended up just re-doing the stock wiring. Many many HybridZ write ups on the Painless and EZ kits installation. Some are very detailed and include directions on how to interface the kits to the turn signal and head light switch. Search "Painless" "EZ Kit" etc.

I'll try again in 24 hrs.

For the last three days clicking on "View New Content" results in this response: Sorry, no new content found.

Do all of the bushings with polyurethane except the T/C rod. Use stock rubber bushings for the T/C rod. Other than the T/C rod do not mix rubber and poly bushings. Search the suspension forum if you need to know why. I did mine over ten years ago along with Tokico blue struts and Arizona Z Car springs (front 180lb/in, rear 200lb/in). Car with SBC 350 sits at stock ride height. Car is very stable on the street and in the mountains. My poly bushings have never made any noise and the car is very comfortable in traffic and long road trips. Suggest you search the suspension forum for more info and installation instructions. Many many threads to look at. Ignore all of the drama about noise and harsh rides - most of it is subjective and/or hearsay.

Disconnected everything, removed shifter and cut exhaust at the header with a saws-all. The leveler makes it easy.

Do you know what the dampening rod does?

Not for firewall flex. For strut tower movement. Anything attached to the strut tower (such as a device to arrest master cylinder movement) will also move.

Strut tower braces to the firewall might do the trick. I noticed that going from a 240Z booster to a 280Z booster reduced firewall flex somewhat.

ditto Superduner ^ ^ ^ I am very happy with my brake setup: Toyota solid front, 240SX rear, 1 inch Wilwood MC, 280Z booster and Axxis Ultra brake pads (good cold bite). The brakes feel like factory and require very little pedal pressure which was not the case with a stock 240Z booster - 1 inch MC combination. With the stock 240Z booster the pedal was very stiff. Brakes work well in traffic and mountain driving.