Miles

Is the striker is adjustable?

Would it be possible to upload a video of your engine running with the air cleaner off showing the carbs as you move the throttle?

I have bought SU parts/rebuild kits from Ztherapy. Good quality parts as of ten years ago. See the Master parts List link at: http://www.ztherapy.com/ Also, does your engine do this? SU Float Adjustment tips (MGB):

How are the brakes working out?

Did the reaction disk fall into the booster?

The part number you show looks like a Honda rear brake pad. The clue is the FMSI number included in the part number "Part No. D 341 RU". I checked that FMSI number on several websites and it comes up as a Honda application. What gets confusing is that the 240SX rear pad shape was used on many Japanese cars. For example you can swap Maxima and 240SX pads for some years etc. The FMSI pad shape for an 89 240SX rear caliper has several numbers including D230, D231, D272, D232, D464 with D272 being the most common in part searches. Pad manufacturers don't always include the FMSI number in their part numbers. But it is a good clue for picking the correct pads. If it were me, I would double check the part number. The AXXIS pads I listed above are the correct Toyota solid rotor and 240SX rear caliper pads. Example searches using FMSI number as well as make model and year: Here are some example pad searches at Summit Racing typing "pads D272" into the search box. Note that if you click on the "application" at Summit it will list all cars for that FMSI number. I am not recommending these pads - https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=HB262 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sph-309-02720/applications/model/240sx

My 240Z would wander and dart left - right under hard braking. Turned out to be rotted T/C and steering rack bushings. Replaced the T/C bushings with stock Nissan bushings and everything else with polyurethane bushings. Drives like it is on rails now You also stated: "Race pads (either Porterfield R4-E or Carbotech RP2. XP8 in the back)" What pads are on the front? Fronts should lock first. Could be that you or the PO tried to change the bias of the front vs rear brakes using different pad materials and now the back pads are a bit too aggressive. Based on your description it could be a number of other things.

Pictures of relocated hard lines, -3 hose, metric to A/N adapters and 90 deg hose ends. I set it up this way when I was experimenting with several brake configurations and it resolved the parking brake bracket clearance issue. Toyota Front Brake hose:

Brake hose and fittings sources: Russell http://www.russellperformance.com/ Earls https://www.holley.com/brands/earls/

You will need to measure your brake line length for each wheel. The original MM kit came with two SS hoses. A short one for the passenger side and a long one for the driver's side. All of the brake fittings on your Z are M10 x 1.0 inverted flare, including hoses with the banjo fittings. On the rear calipers you can use banjo fittings or A/N adapters at each end and generic SS A/N brake hose. Study up on A/N brake lines before you buy anything. A/N hoses come with a variety of hose ends straight, 45 deg angle or 90 deg angle etc. You have to decide which is best for your application based on minimizing stress on the hose. Check out Summit Racing for hoses. Also, Silvermine and Chequered Flag may sell the hoses for the MM kits. So you have two ways to go on brake hoses: Prefab with correct metric hose ends that work with your brake modifications or: Generic A/N hose and you pick out the metric hose ends and adapters to make it work.

A one inch Wilwood MC paired with a 280Z booster is what I am using with the Toyota - 240SX combination. Pedal is not stiff. Just feels like normal power brakes. Originally used a 280ZX MC with stock 240Z booster, but the pedal was too stiff. There are several posts here and at ClassicZcars.com describing the 280Z booster swap.

The only member I recall doing something like this is Tooquick260. You might PM him or google "Tooquick260" If you do plug the outlet use a plug made for inverted flair M10 x 1.0.

AXXIS/PBR ceramic brake pads: Toyota Front 45-01370U/4: http://www.importrp.com/product.php?productid=338850&cat=&page=1 240SX Rear 45- 02300U/4: http://www.importrp.com/product.php?productid=338820&cat=&page=1 Some parts stores may have them as well. The AXXIS pads are good street pads, but I am now going with more aggressive Carbotech AX6 brake pads : Toyota Front: CT137 AX6 PAD Material 240SX Rear: CT272 AX6 PAD Material I used generic A/N. SS brake hose to go from the hard line to the caliper. Each caliper has a A/N to M10 x 1.0 SS hose adapter threaded into the caliper. I did this so I could go to my local speed shop and purchase SS brake lines off the rack for future brake modifications. Just be sure to measure the length of each hose with the suspension at full droop and move the suspension to check for binding/rubbing of the brake lines. The 240Z brake fittings are M10 x 1.0. For the front do not use brake hoses with banjo connectors on the Toyota calipers. The Toyota S12 + 8 caliper is not machined or designed for banjo connectors and they will leak. You can use brake lines with banjo connectors on the 240SX calipers as they are designed and machined for banjo connectors. Use a fresh crush washer under the banjo fitting each time you remove the hose from the caliper. Parts stores have them. With the Modern Motor Sports kit, a longer driver's side brake hose was used from a hard line you supplied connected to the the T block and then the long hose to the caliper. The ready made hard line (parts store) was supplied by the customer from the T block was approx 20" (measure). See picture and links. I didn't like the long hose so I installed a new custom driver side hard line from the T block to the frame so a shorter 14" hose would drop down from the frame above the caliper to clear the axle and the tab. Don't cut/remove anything until you have worked out a plan that you know will work. http://www.typeischeap.com/pics/images/rearbrake.jpg http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/Calipers/zbrakeupgrade.htm Do you have the parking brake cable brackets (hangers) for the 240SX calipers? You do not have to turn down the rotors. Use 84 300ZX non turbo rotors.

Use the basic caliper information below to search/purchase the calipers. Go to the brake forum where you will find a recent discussion (last 10 days) about the s12+8 solid caliper. There are two versions of the s12+8 solid caliper caliper. One for the solid rotor and one machined with a wider gap for a vented rotor. Not to be confused with the S12W caliper which is vented only and will not work with solid rotors. basic info: Make: TOYOTA Model: PICKUP Beginning Year: 1979 Ending Year: 1980 Engine Type: L4 Engine Size: 2.2L/2189cc Engine Family: Toyota 4-cylinder Drivetrain: 4WD Go to Summit and search using above information. Summit lists all the applications for this caliper (79 - 89). Do not buy Cardone calipers. The last ones I bought were full of rust powder and flakes. Napa has decent calipers

Under new ownership. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/ I bought my stub axles from them.

I just bought front and rear pads from Carbotech. Front : CT137 with AX6 pad material for the solid Toyota calipers $141.00 Rear: CT272 with AX6 pad material for 89 240SX rear calipers $131.00 AX6 is a street/autocross material. Has cold bite for the street, but makes noise and dust (don't care). Carbotech can pre-treat the pads to minimize bed-in process. $20/set Ask for the club discount. Take about 3 -4 days for Carbotech to make the pads

You are in the club now. Interesting method for checking lean carbs. So, is it mixture or float adjustment causing the problem? I usually read the plugs to check for lean/rich condition. Better to go rich and ragged than too lean. There is also a device called a "color tune". It is a spark plug with a window that allows watching the flame color inside the cylinder as you turn the mixture adjustment. Recently, someone came up with a visual tool for setting float levels. Check the vendor forum or Google.

Does your MC look like this? What diameter piston does it have? You do know that it is a fast fill MC. See the bulge on the side. Has to do with reducing pad drag on the rotors by using "low drag calipers". Google what a "fast fill MC" is. With your particular caliper combination you would need a 15/16in. to 1in. diameter MC to flow enough fluid. Search the brake and FAQ forums to see if another member has used this MC. Opinion: Why would you do all of the unnecessary plumbing when tried and true bolt on solutions are available.

If you go to Summit Racing and type "brake pads D137" into the search window it will list stock pads they sell for that pad type. Will work for Google searches for some performance pads too. https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=brake%20pads%20D137 Note that the D137 pad were used on many Toyota models.

Some of the rear disk conversion kits used the 84 300ZX rear rotors. Do a search on 240Z rear disk conversions to see if you can confirm which rear conversion kit you have as there are many kit configurations using Maxima calipers, 200SX, 240SX calipers, 280ZX calipers in combination with Maxima rotors, 240SX rotors or 300ZX rotors etc. You may have the wrong rotor or an installation error. Answers likely in: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/39435-help-what-brake-options-are-available-for-s30-z-cars/ Note: The Maxima, 200SX and 240SX calipers look very similar. When fitting new pads in the 240SX/Maxima style calipers you have to turn the piston all the way in to make room for the rotor. When the piston is all the way in, turn it so the alignment pin on the pad slides into the groove (grove approx 12 o'clock). Otherwise the rotor will bind on the pads. You can rent the piston tool from most parts stores or use what you have, but the tool works better.

I have the S12 + 8 solid disk (front) and 240SX calipers (rear) with 1 in. Willwood MC and 280Z booster on my 240Z. I tried all of the popular performance street pads such as Porterfield and Hawk. Even though they are advertised for "street performance" they lacked cold bite which is what you want for a street car when some kid runs out in front of you. For the last two years I have used Axxis Ultimates front and back. They have better cold bite than the "performance street pads" and get better with repeated stops. As far as searching for pads I have found that searching by pad shape (every pad has an industry FMSI standard shape) works well: 89 240SX FMSI Shape Codes D230, D231, D272, D232, D464 79 TOYOTA 4X4 PICKUP FMSI Shape Code D137 http://www.nitomainc.com/npsp3.php?masterno=BP252

What do you have on the back? Post some pictures of the calipers front and back including the mounting bracket?

Keep searching like this guy............................

Post a picture of your rotor edge-on and a picture of the bottom of the caliper where the rotor goes. Picture of Toyota S12W caliper and 84-85 300ZX non-turbo vented rotor on my 240Z:

Re: Headlight Issue There is a headlight relay harness developed by a HybridZ member named Dave that you can purchase from him or at MSA. It is plug and play so no wire cutting/splicing. Allows full voltage to your headlights and the use of higher wattage bulbs. It also takes the load off of the light switch. Dave's website: http://datsun-240z-upgrades.net/product-info/ MSA: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4651