Miles

Did you adjust the push rod that is between the booster and the master cylinder? If not, search the brake forum for "push rod adjustment". It is a common oversight when installing the ZX master cylinder. If the push rod is too long the return port in the MC will be blocked which after a few stops will lock up the brakes. You can relieve the fluid pressure by opening the MC bleed screws so carry a wrench with you when testing the push rod adjustments. You don't have to remove the MC from the car. Leave the brake lines attached and just remove the two nuts holding the MC to the booster. Pull the MC away from the booster and push it to the side. Note: when adjusting the push rod be careful not to drop the reaction disk inside the booster. Try to minimize pulling on the push rod.

Welcome. A bit more information is required: Is the wiring stock or after market? What modifications have been made to the stock wiring? Do you have the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your 240Z? You will need it. Have you downloaded schematics for your car? Have you searched HybridZ for posts related to turn signal problems? There are many posts that include "how-to" videos. Have you searched Google or YouTube? There are many "how to repair turn signals" tutorials and videos for the 240Z.

How did you bed the pads?

What HP is your SBC? How will the car be driven?

For the same amount of effort, you could buy a Chevy, Camaro etc driveshaft at a wrecker and have it shortened and balanced with new U joints. The only other component required would be the flange adapter. The flange adapter P/N is available in several HybridZ posts. JTR may still sell the adapter. Note: Measure driveshaft carefully Use a reliable driveshaft shop Pay attention to driveshaft phasing/angles

What driveshaft are you using? Answers here: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/47121-zx-rear-brake-conversion-e-brake-interference

Don't do anything permanent until you have fully researched this problem. There are several solutions.

Like this:

Swapping parts is not diagnosis. You are wasting time and money. Learn how to use a voltmeter to diagnose charging circuits/battery. Shouldn't take more than ten minutes using a volt meter correctly. Google it. Verify that the battery and alternator are working by taking them to your local parts store.

You didn't mention the basics: What year is your Z? Wiring changes from year to year. What modifications have been made to the electrical system? Do you have the Factory Service Manual for your z? Have you downloaded electrical schematics for your Z? Members have made some very well done schematics in color in pdf format. Search.

The stock headlight circuit is prone to overheating the headlight switch. Do the headlight relay harness developed by Hybridz member HLS30-08077 (Dave). Allows running higher wattage headlights without burning up the stock harness/switch. https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/product-info/ Seem to recall that MSA also sells Dave's harness.

Have you searched HybridZ for "headlight circuit" ?

You didn't mention the basics: What year is your Z? Wiring changes from year to year. What modifications have been made to the electrical system? Do you have the Factory Service Manual for your z? Have you downloaded electrical schematics for your Z? Members have made some very well done schematics in color in pdf format. Search. Do you understand how the headlight system is wired? May be different than you are used to. Do you know that black wires on the Z are grounds? Suggest that you get a schematic and identify the wires "with no home". Google switch repair: there are many "how to" write ups and YouTube videos explaining, in detail, the combo switch lighting/turn signal switch wiring. Until you understand what each wire does you will be at a disadvantage troubleshooting the electrical system.

Because Z brake systems changed year to year, you need to tell us what year Z you have. Post some pictures of what you are calling a "proportioning valve" would help.

Is the striker is adjustable?

Would it be possible to upload a video of your engine running with the air cleaner off showing the carbs as you move the throttle?

I have bought SU parts/rebuild kits from Ztherapy. Good quality parts as of ten years ago. See the Master parts List link at: http://www.ztherapy.com/ Also, does your engine do this? SU Float Adjustment tips (MGB):

How are the brakes working out?

Did the reaction disk fall into the booster?

The part number you show looks like a Honda rear brake pad. The clue is the FMSI number included in the part number "Part No. D 341 RU". I checked that FMSI number on several websites and it comes up as a Honda application. What gets confusing is that the 240SX rear pad shape was used on many Japanese cars. For example you can swap Maxima and 240SX pads for some years etc. The FMSI pad shape for an 89 240SX rear caliper has several numbers including D230, D231, D272, D232, D464 with D272 being the most common in part searches. Pad manufacturers don't always include the FMSI number in their part numbers. But it is a good clue for picking the correct pads. If it were me, I would double check the part number. The AXXIS pads I listed above are the correct Toyota solid rotor and 240SX rear caliper pads. Example searches using FMSI number as well as make model and year: Here are some example pad searches at Summit Racing typing "pads D272" into the search box. Note that if you click on the "application" at Summit it will list all cars for that FMSI number. I am not recommending these pads - https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=HB262 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sph-309-02720/applications/model/240sx

My 240Z would wander and dart left - right under hard braking. Turned out to be rotted T/C and steering rack bushings. Replaced the T/C bushings with stock Nissan bushings and everything else with polyurethane bushings. Drives like it is on rails now You also stated: "Race pads (either Porterfield R4-E or Carbotech RP2. XP8 in the back)" What pads are on the front? Fronts should lock first. Could be that you or the PO tried to change the bias of the front vs rear brakes using different pad materials and now the back pads are a bit too aggressive. Based on your description it could be a number of other things.

Pictures of relocated hard lines, -3 hose, metric to A/N adapters and 90 deg hose ends. I set it up this way when I was experimenting with several brake configurations and it resolved the parking brake bracket clearance issue. Toyota Front Brake hose:

Brake hose and fittings sources: Russell http://www.russellperformance.com/ Earls https://www.holley.com/brands/earls/

You will need to measure your brake line length for each wheel. The original MM kit came with two SS hoses. A short one for the passenger side and a long one for the driver's side. All of the brake fittings on your Z are M10 x 1.0 inverted flare, including hoses with the banjo fittings. On the rear calipers you can use banjo fittings or A/N adapters at each end and generic SS A/N brake hose. Study up on A/N brake lines before you buy anything. A/N hoses come with a variety of hose ends straight, 45 deg angle or 90 deg angle etc. You have to decide which is best for your application based on minimizing stress on the hose. Check out Summit Racing for hoses. Also, Silvermine and Chequered Flag may sell the hoses for the MM kits. So you have two ways to go on brake hoses: Prefab with correct metric hose ends that work with your brake modifications or: Generic A/N hose and you pick out the metric hose ends and adapters to make it work.