Miles

AXXIS/PBR ceramic brake pads: Toyota Front 45-01370U/4: http://www.importrp.com/product.php?productid=338850&cat=&page=1 240SX Rear 45- 02300U/4: http://www.importrp.com/product.php?productid=338820&cat=&page=1 Some parts stores may have them as well. The AXXIS pads are good street pads, but I am now going with more aggressive Carbotech AX6 brake pads : Toyota Front: CT137 AX6 PAD Material 240SX Rear: CT272 AX6 PAD Material I used generic A/N. SS brake hose to go from the hard line to the caliper. Each caliper has a A/N to M10 x 1.0 SS hose adapter threaded into the caliper. I did this so I could go to my local speed shop and purchase SS brake lines off the rack for future brake modifications. Just be sure to measure the length of each hose with the suspension at full droop and move the suspension to check for binding/rubbing of the brake lines. The 240Z brake fittings are M10 x 1.0. For the front do not use brake hoses with banjo connectors on the Toyota calipers. The Toyota S12 + 8 caliper is not machined or designed for banjo connectors and they will leak. You can use brake lines with banjo connectors on the 240SX calipers as they are designed and machined for banjo connectors. Use a fresh crush washer under the banjo fitting each time you remove the hose from the caliper. Parts stores have them. With the Modern Motor Sports kit, a longer driver's side brake hose was used from a hard line you supplied connected to the the T block and then the long hose to the caliper. The ready made hard line (parts store) was supplied by the customer from the T block was approx 20" (measure). See picture and links. I didn't like the long hose so I installed a new custom driver side hard line from the T block to the frame so a shorter 14" hose would drop down from the frame above the caliper to clear the axle and the tab. Don't cut/remove anything until you have worked out a plan that you know will work. http://www.typeischeap.com/pics/images/rearbrake.jpg http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/Calipers/zbrakeupgrade.htm Do you have the parking brake cable brackets (hangers) for the 240SX calipers? You do not have to turn down the rotors. Use 84 300ZX non turbo rotors.

Use the basic caliper information below to search/purchase the calipers. Go to the brake forum where you will find a recent discussion (last 10 days) about the s12+8 solid caliper. There are two versions of the s12+8 solid caliper caliper. One for the solid rotor and one machined with a wider gap for a vented rotor. Not to be confused with the S12W caliper which is vented only and will not work with solid rotors. basic info: Make: TOYOTA Model: PICKUP Beginning Year: 1979 Ending Year: 1980 Engine Type: L4 Engine Size: 2.2L/2189cc Engine Family: Toyota 4-cylinder Drivetrain: 4WD Go to Summit and search using above information. Summit lists all the applications for this caliper (79 - 89). Do not buy Cardone calipers. The last ones I bought were full of rust powder and flakes. Napa has decent calipers

Under new ownership. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/ I bought my stub axles from them.

I just bought front and rear pads from Carbotech. Front : CT137 with AX6 pad material for the solid Toyota calipers $141.00 Rear: CT272 with AX6 pad material for 89 240SX rear calipers $131.00 AX6 is a street/autocross material. Has cold bite for the street, but makes noise and dust (don't care). Carbotech can pre-treat the pads to minimize bed-in process. $20/set Ask for the club discount. Take about 3 -4 days for Carbotech to make the pads

You are in the club now. Interesting method for checking lean carbs. So, is it mixture or float adjustment causing the problem? I usually read the plugs to check for lean/rich condition. Better to go rich and ragged than too lean. There is also a device called a "color tune". It is a spark plug with a window that allows watching the flame color inside the cylinder as you turn the mixture adjustment. Recently, someone came up with a visual tool for setting float levels. Check the vendor forum or Google.

Does your MC look like this? What diameter piston does it have? You do know that it is a fast fill MC. See the bulge on the side. Has to do with reducing pad drag on the rotors by using "low drag calipers". Google what a "fast fill MC" is. With your particular caliper combination you would need a 15/16in. to 1in. diameter MC to flow enough fluid. Search the brake and FAQ forums to see if another member has used this MC. Opinion: Why would you do all of the unnecessary plumbing when tried and true bolt on solutions are available.

If you go to Summit Racing and type "brake pads D137" into the search window it will list stock pads they sell for that pad type. Will work for Google searches for some performance pads too. https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=brake%20pads%20D137 Note that the D137 pad were used on many Toyota models.

Some of the rear disk conversion kits used the 84 300ZX rear rotors. Do a search on 240Z rear disk conversions to see if you can confirm which rear conversion kit you have as there are many kit configurations using Maxima calipers, 200SX, 240SX calipers, 280ZX calipers in combination with Maxima rotors, 240SX rotors or 300ZX rotors etc. You may have the wrong rotor or an installation error. Answers likely in: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/39435-help-what-brake-options-are-available-for-s30-z-cars/ Note: The Maxima, 200SX and 240SX calipers look very similar. When fitting new pads in the 240SX/Maxima style calipers you have to turn the piston all the way in to make room for the rotor. When the piston is all the way in, turn it so the alignment pin on the pad slides into the groove (grove approx 12 o'clock). Otherwise the rotor will bind on the pads. You can rent the piston tool from most parts stores or use what you have, but the tool works better.

I have the S12 + 8 solid disk (front) and 240SX calipers (rear) with 1 in. Willwood MC and 280Z booster on my 240Z. I tried all of the popular performance street pads such as Porterfield and Hawk. Even though they are advertised for "street performance" they lacked cold bite which is what you want for a street car when some kid runs out in front of you. For the last two years I have used Axxis Ultimates front and back. They have better cold bite than the "performance street pads" and get better with repeated stops. As far as searching for pads I have found that searching by pad shape (every pad has an industry FMSI standard shape) works well: 89 240SX FMSI Shape Codes D230, D231, D272, D232, D464 79 TOYOTA 4X4 PICKUP FMSI Shape Code D137 http://www.nitomainc.com/npsp3.php?masterno=BP252

What do you have on the back? Post some pictures of the calipers front and back including the mounting bracket?

Keep searching like this guy............................

Post a picture of your rotor edge-on and a picture of the bottom of the caliper where the rotor goes. Picture of Toyota S12W caliper and 84-85 300ZX non-turbo vented rotor on my 240Z:

Re: Headlight Issue There is a headlight relay harness developed by a HybridZ member named Dave that you can purchase from him or at MSA. It is plug and play so no wire cutting/splicing. Allows full voltage to your headlights and the use of higher wattage bulbs. It also takes the load off of the light switch. Dave's website: http://datsun-240z-upgrades.net/product-info/ MSA: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4651

This can be a bit confusing. The Toyota S12 + 8 caliper came in two versions: solid and vented. See pictures. And then there is the S12W caliper that only came in the vented version. You can use either the S12 + 8 vented or the S12W calipers if you want vented brakes. The main difference is in the piston size. Both vented versions of the Toyota calipers require the use of a 84-85 300zx non-turbo rotor The non-vented S12 + 8 caliper will work with the solid stock 240Z rotor only. This may clear things up: http://driven-daily.com/build/s30-toyota-brake-upgrades Opinion: If your car is a daily driver, the Toyota solid rotor version is all you need and it is cheaper. The Vented swap requires a spacer to line up the caliper with the rotor. Also, the larger Toyota caliper may rub on your wheels which will require a spacer to move the wheel out. Don't forget that the Toyota calipers require a larger volume of fluid which means going to a larger 15/16" ZX master cylinder or a Wilwwood 1" master cylinder. Some people say that the stock MC is fine, but some don't like the long pedal travel.

You were given a lot of good advice recently in another post just like this one: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125902-240z-dies-when-choke-is-fully-open/?do=findComment&comment=1177199

Did you try post #5 above?

Welcome Suggestions: Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Read the new member FAQs. Useful Links: http://zhome.com/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/

The door handle has a rod with a nylon adjustment nut. This adjustment can cause the door mechanism to unlatch the door if the nut is turned too far down the rod. You can test the adjustment by moving the door latch to the closed position and then pulling the door handle while watching for the latch to move. See pictures.

73z85.0 You bought the JTR, but did you read it? See page 8-2 of the JTR Datsun Z V8 Conversion Manual. Everything you need to know about this install is in the manual.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/100400-hesitation-on-acceleration/?hl=hesitation

Just checking the floats for dirt etc, is not what the other poster meant by "did you check the floats". Setting the height of the SU float level is critical to getting the correct amount of fuel to the nozzles. There is an adjustment on the float that has to be done correctly or you end up lean or rich. Bowel Fuel Level: See picture The best answer to your question is: You should buy the video "Just SUs" and watch it at least five times: http://www.ztherapy.com/

How about this: 1. Remove the thermostat and replace the thermostat cover 2. Remove the the top (return) hose from the radiator 3. Remove the bottom hose from the radiator and secure a garden hose up inside of it sealing the hoses with duct tape. 4. Turn on the garden hose full. 5. Start the engine reving it to pulse the water going through the engine. This way no scale enters the radiator and the water pressure/flow is increased by the water pump.

That is scale from inside your engine. Most likely you will find that scale inside the water pump as well. Heater and heater hoses too. Pull the heater hoses off where they connect to the engine and inspect for scale. Don't take the hoses off at the heater because they are a bitch to put back on. You might be able to flush the block and heater core out before you put the new water pump on. The radiator will just plug up again if you don't flush out the block. Maybe one of the L6 guys will know how to flush out the block.

If you need to replace the radiator Arizona Z Car sells a bolt-in aluminum radiator for Z cars. It is good quality and it is my understanding that it is a Ron Davis radiator with Z car mounting brackets. Keeps my SBC 350 cool in the summer. http://www.arizonazcar.com/radiator.html