Miles

I didn't see this before I had coffee. It could kill you. So re-engineer your fuel line routing before driving this car. Suggest that you post pictures of the fuel tank to fuel pump to fuel line and include showing how the fuel pump is wired. In other words all of the fuel related equipment, wires, pump etc back by the fuel tank. I now suspect there may be problems in how the fuel system was built from the tank forward.

By the way, did the previous owner install an oil pressure sensing fuel pump cut off switch. In case of a crash you want the electric fuel pump to stop pumping gas. The oil pressure safety switch senses when oil pressure goes to zero and shuts off the fuel pump. Basically, power for the fuel pump runs through the switch to a fuel pump relay (recommended) to the fuel pump. When the engine is running oil pressure rises and closes the switch energizing a relay that closes and switches 12 volts to the fuel pump. Without the relay, the oil pressure safety switch has to carry the amperage load demanded by the fuel pump which sometimes burns out he switch. Also, the fuel pump is most efficient when it receives a full 12 volts. Painless sells a very nice fuel pump relay harness that can be connected and triggered by the oil pressure safety switch. See picture below. There are alternate install locations and methods to cut off the fuel pump. Recommend that you purchase the Jags that Run Datsun Z V8 Conversion Manual and memorize it. The manual explains how to build a safe V8 Z car.

Captainkim There are several solutions to your problem. None of them include a rubber hose (they crack and leak), cutting a hole, or putting weld goop on a fuel fitting. The solutions do include relocating where the fuel line ends up in the engine bay, proper fuel lines and fittings that make for a safe and reliable fuel system. The previous owner of my first 240Z V8 also cut the fuel line just behind the firewall and then ran a rubber hose to the carb. The hose cracked and leaked. I replaced the hose once and it also cracked and leaked. The cut portion of the fuel line was down in the trans tunnel like yours and impossible to get to. What to do? I ran a new fuel line all the way from the tank to the original stock location on the passenger frame rail, added a filter and pressure gauge and all was well. On my second 240Z V8 project I kept the stock fuel line location on the passenger side frame rail, added a filter and pressure gauge. See pictures below. Options: 1. Cut the collection of brass fittings off the fuel hard line and install a A-N to hardline adapter into which you screw in a A-N hose fitting. Then you run a flex line along the passenger side frame rail with A-N hose fittings on each end to the approx location of the original stock fuel line. This line will connect to your regulator and pressure gauge and then to the carb. The flex line must be anchored to the car with rubber clamps along its route to the carb. When you cut the fuel line where the fittings are, use a tubing cutter and make sure that the cut is perfectly square with the tubing i.e., not an angle. De-burr the cut with a fine file and then slide on the A-N hose to hard line adapter. To do this fix you will need to learn how to select and install A-N fittings. There are many videos available that show how to cut SS flex hose and install A-N fittings. This is expensive, but you fuel system will be leak free and will out live you. 2. You could run a new hard line all the way from the fuel pump to the stock location on the passenger side frame rail. From the hard line run a SS flex line with A-N fittings to the carb. Note: if you are not comfortable with A-N fittings you can use standard hose clamps on the SS flex line. In this case you would use push on type nipples on each device that needs a hose connected to it. Recommendation: Take some time and look at all of the options before cutting or modifying your car. At a minimum, to do the job correctly, you will need to secure your car on jack stands and pull the transmission and driveline in order to re-work the kluge* the previous owner created. * kluge = a mass of IL-fitting parts forming a disgusting whole.

Here is a handy carb calculator: http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/CarbCFMCalc.html

CalZ was just pointing out a fact - this is a Datsun site with a mix of Ford, Chevy, racers, etc members.

While Hybridz has a lot of good information from some very gifted mechanics/builders, I have found over the years that I needed to augment Hybridz searches with other automotive web sites. I reasoned that my hybrid 240z with Chevy engine, and parts from other Japanese cars, was really just another hot rod with issues that all hot rodders run into. So I started looking at hot rod, Corvette, Camaro, Toyota, 240SX, Nismo etc websites for ideas and information. For example, My Holley 570 Street Avenger carb was indicating a stumble and lean sag at low speed cruise. I found the solution on a hot rod website. I have also purchased or down loaded manuals, manufacturer instructions, factory service manuals etc for every component used in my build project. Many of the manufacturers supplement their installation manuals with videos on YouTube.

I haven't been myself lately.

Can you confirm that you have the correct rotor? Could you post a picture showing the rotor alignment inside the caliper?

1. Replace the booster. Before installing the booster, glue the reaction disk in place. Hold the booster so the push rod is pointing up to minimize dropping the reaction disk inside. 2. Install the booster. 2. Adjust booster to MC push rod to the correct length. The reaction disk is glued in place so no worry about loosing it. You can fine tune the length after the MC is installed. 3. Bench bleed the MC. See various threads on bench bleeding. Take your time and remove all of the fine bubbles. 4. Re-install the MC. 5. Bleed the brakes.

Cardone used to offer a MC rebuilding service through O'reilleys Auto Parts. You take the MC (has to be rebuildable) to O'reilleys and they send it to Cardone for the rebuild. Seem to recall that it took about 2 - 3 weeks.

That's the administrator's job.

Bueller? Bueller? Bueller?

New one.............................

Time to pull the differential and remove the cover to see what is going on. If the differential is toast then replace it with another used R200 with the same gear ratio. Gear ratio: rotate the ring gear until you see two numbers separated by a slash ( / ) or colon ( : ). and divide the larger number by the smaller number to give the ratio. Most likely you have a differential with a 3.54 ratio. Verify.

Always post the year of your car and what modifications it has. Search is your friend. I found the following posts in Hybridz in about one minute.

Could the orange wire be for accessaries you want on with the engine off and the pink wire powers the ignition circuit. On the back of the ignition switch are there separate terminals for ACC and IGN?

Looks like a drive by question.

Look for a company that rebuilds brake components (not a brake service shop) and see if they can rebuild it for you. This is what I did when I couldn't find a new 280Z booster. I bought a booster from a local junk yard and had a local brake component rebuilding shop rebuild it. I recall from about ten years ago, that Cardone used to provide this same service where you have O'reillys ship them the part, they rebuild it and then ship it back to O'reillys. For example, I took a leaking master cylinder to O'reillys and they shipped it to Cardone. Cardone rebuilt the MC and shipped it back to O'reillys. If you live in, or near, a big city there may be a company that rebuilds brake components.

http://www.zcarparts.com/ 280z 8.5 inch dia booster https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=29330&cc=1209226&jsn=888&_nck=miHVm5QT%2BfyI%2BeUfiZtyKNQxXgzz29sg6NVuCDdjB80aVw2id8isb3egjdMgkO5dV1oWSHheXD2pR3Wyr%2FouBEjLxg2%2Bry8AAeOScUKohl5AUGSzhV8%2Bu6ubQOoKqXIE7WqsMvDu7%2F2bwVsqMJP1TFO3CJTY5QOPN%2F9Ja%2BVRmxfaZthYdfBSFOWKrzblb5JtRxAnjrC3zjfG3Lp2WzDqEkt6QBXnMiDGirTeZi5UY5UBYThQXDe2M1oFHBXcCFs0gyj%2B42OXJ1C9MiRdAIrGdg9820EI5Paj0Vs9cPN1bESavgD5%2BoF9fWE0Xi8zhjZE6w3ksAh49ZVuguGgYit3%2F%2B6phzXvYSdPR2NrzObies3wcyflvWLfc3S0NPD09%2BOjMP6sxJs7CrH0F7SmlgtmnCVnwCqf%2BR6Q

Try the math as a starting point.

The 240z does not have a relay built into the dimmer switch. It is just a a piece of copper that switches between the high and low light circuit. If you examine a 240Z combination switch you will see that the contacts are just small, thin, pieces of copper bits which are subjected to heating and pitting from arcing when a high amperage load is supplied. Headlights pull high amps across those metal bits in the switch. Using relays for the headlights takes the high amp load off of the wiring and those copper contacts inside the switch. For over 40 years Z owners have reported having their combination switch melt due to high amp loads. So yes headlight relays are a good idea. Many Painless harnesses have been installed in Z cars so it is likely that there is a relay write up on HybridZ or at ClassicZcars.com. Benefits of headlight relays: Less stress on wiring and the combo switch The lights get a full 12 volts You can run higher amperage headlights such as H4s etc Note: A relay for the electric fuel pump is also a good idea.

Would a block hugger exhaust manifold work?

Could be battery/alternator related if the car sat a long time. Take the battery and alternator to Oreileys or Autozone and have them checked out.

Changing the MC will not damage the booster. Your booster has failed internally or you are not getting vacuum from the engine. Suggest that you inspect the vacuum hose and fittings between the intake manifold and the booster. Verify that you have vacuum at the booster connection.

Drain the differential and check for metal particles. Another possible source of a clunk: