Miles

I had the same problem with my first 240Z. The PO butchered the wiring. Took me weeks to trace each wire he installed and put the wiring back to stock.

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What year Z? Download a schematic for your car. There are many on-line. Some are in color. Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM) For example, the 1972 starter wire is black - yellow and it attaches to the solenoid "S" terminal Don't advise doing a re-wire of the whole car at this point. From the picture: has the fuse box been replaced?

Seems to be a rash of new members posting in the FAQ. They don't realize that members can not reply. Suggestion: Modify the FAQ heading to read "FAQ - is read only. Do not post here"

Nice car! Welcome Useful information: Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/48825-factory-manuals-some/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-1208329 Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! For SU carbs, parts and instructions go to Ztherapy. Buy the "Just SUs" video. Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Search the Hybridz forums. Read all of the new member guidelines and FAQs Links: https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness http://zhome.com/ https://www.zcar.com/ https://www.classiczcars.com/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html http://www.ztherapy.com/ http://www.xenonzcar.com/reference.html

The reason I eliminated the tank was to eliminate gas odor inside the car.

On my carbed SBC I removed the vapor tank and sealed all of the ports on the tank except the fuel pick tube and one port on the top of the "bulge" part of the tank. I ran that one vent line to the neck of the filler tube so air could escape as the tank was filling up into the "bulge" part of the tank. If the tank is completely sealed, a vacuum will develop as fuel is drawn out of the tank. To prevent the vacuum, I drilled a very small hole in the filler cap. Other consideration: with the vapor tank removed, do not top off the tank when filling up. On hot days the gas will expand and run out of the cap. Done this for 20 years with no problems.

Most likely a bad ground in the brake light harness at the back of the car. Pull out the rear panel and look for the ground wires and clean up their attachment points. Also could be a dirty lamp socket. Pull the bulb and check the socket. Suggest that you down load a schematic for your car. You are going to need it as a Z owner. Ditto a Factory Service Manual (FSM).

This is interesting. I pulled the R200 and half shafts from a 78 280Z, replaced the U joints and installed the R200 and half shafts in my 240Z. Are you perhaps thinking of the driveshaft? Take the half shafts to a drive line shop.

The strap is no longer required. The stock rubber differential mount you replaced would flex and rip apart eventually. Nissan installed the strap to keep the nose of the differential from pitching up under load. For normal daily driving the solid mount works well. But the racers have reported that under hard driving the front cross member can crack and/or pull the center bolt through the cross member. I installed solid mounts in both of my Z cars 20 years ago and have not had a problem. Cars present us with lessons. The lesson is repeated until we get it and then we get another lesson etc etc.

Just to be certain. These are the bolts you are working on:

Check out the "Clunk" here:

Welcome to Hybridz. The most efficient way to search Hybridz is to do a Google search using the following format: site: hybridz.org "topic in quotes" For example, site: hybridZ.org "R200" Useful information Download a Factory Service Manual (FSM). http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/48825-factory-manuals-some/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-1208329 Download electrical schematics for your car. PDFs are easier to read than those found in books. Some are in color. Buy the book How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car by Wick Humble. It will save you hours of searching for "how to" info. Focus on searching Hybridz as 99% of questions have already been addressed. Start bookmarking Z car parts suppliers - there are many! Remember these are 40 year old cars and will need restoration to be safe and drivable. Join ClassicZCars.com website and search there as well. Become well informed about modifications before asking questions. People will be more inclined to answer informed questions. Search the Hybridz forums. Read all of the new member guidelines and FAQs Links: https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ Recommend the headlight relay harness http://zhome.com/ https://www.zcar.com/ https://www.classiczcars.com/ http://www.zcarparts.com/ http://www.arizonazcar.com/ http://www.jagsthatrun.com/index.html http://www.ztherapy.com/ http://www.xenonzcar.com/reference.html

That solid mount you are installing may require longer bolts anyway.

Why not just remove the differential from the car and apply heat to the nuts?

You need more leverage. Use a 2 ft. long pipe as a lever i.e., put the pipe over the wrench handle to extend the length. For example, I couldn't get the nuts on the stub axles to break loose. Tried an air impact wrench. The nuts wouldn't budge. So I got a 4 ft length of pipe and slipped it over the handle of a 1/2 drive ratchet wrench. The nut broke loose instantly.

Did you install the clutch disk backwards?

So if you turn the ignition switch to "run", pull the wire that connects to the temperature probe and then ground the wire, the temp gauge should go all the way to full hot. If, while performing this test, the gauge bounces around, then there is an issue with the sensor wire or the gauge. Could be loose or dirty connections. These links may be of some help: https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/280481-oil-temp-gauge-not-working.html https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/47277-temp-gauge-not-working.html

Make model and year of the car? Any modifications to the car? Stock gauges? Describe what happens to the temp gauge if you ground the wire connected to the temp sensor.

Many R200 3.9 differentials used in Z cars. Pick one and you will be miles ahead............................. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html 240Z 70-73 MT (3.364) (R180) 240Z 70-73 MT 5spd. (3.900) (R180) - non US 240Z 71-73 Auto (3.545) (R180) 260Z 74 MT (3.364) (R180) 260Z 74 Auto (3.545) (R180) 280Z 75-76 (3.545) (R200) 280Z 77-78 MT (3.545) (R200) 280Z 77-78 Auto (3.545) (R180) 280ZX 79 MT,4 Spd,2 Seater (3.364) (R180) 280ZX 79 MT,5 Spd,2 Seater (3.364) (R180) 280ZX 79 All With Automatic(3.545) (R180) 280ZX 79 MT,4 Spd,4 Seater (3.364) (R200) 280ZX 79 MT,5 Spd,4 Seater (3.7) (R200) 280ZX-GL 79 (3.7) (R200) 280ZX 80 MT,2 Seater (3.545) (R180) 280ZX 80 Automatic 2/4Seat (3.545) (R180) 280ZX 80 MT,4 Seater (3.9) (R200) 280ZX-GL 80 (3.9) (R200) 280ZX 81-83 Automatic all (3.545) (R180) 280ZX 81-83 Turbo - all (3.545) (R200) 280ZX 81-83 MT (3.9) (R200) - - - - 300ZX's - - - - - -- - 300ZX 84-86 MT and A/T (3.7) (R200) 300ZX 84-86 Turbo MT and A/T (3.54) (R200) 300ZX 87-89 MT and A/T (3.9 ) (R200) 300ZX 87-89 MT and A/T (3.9 ) (R200) 300ZX 87-89 Turbo MT and A/T (3.7 ) (R200) Note Turbos: #1) after 4/87 only-(3.7 Clutch Type LSD) 2) 88 All White SS used a 3.7 Viscous Coupling LSD) 3) LSD Unites Came With Finned Rear Covers Additional Comments: a) Viscous Coupling LSD requires special splined half shafts - b) 84-87 R200's can be used in earlier cars, but require modifications they are not direct bolt in swapable to 240/260/280Z/280ZX's c) 84-89 R200's used a 12mm bolt in the ring gear - earlier R200 used a 10mm bolt in the ring gear, so you can not swap Gear Sets with the older R200's

How do you use the car? Daily driver? Race car?

alarm?

Steering rack parts have been NLA for many years. So called "rebuilt steering racks" also need those same NLA parts. Always ask the dealer if the rebuilt/new rack actually has new parts in it. If you search HybridZ you will see this topic was beat to death years ago. If you find the parts you need post the supplier here for us.

What you have here is known as a Kluge: a collection of ill fitting parts forming a disgusting whole. Looks like the PO used hard lines that were too long. To get the lines to fit he took up the extra length by coiling the hard lines. The lines are not anchored correctly. Get rid of the yellow zip ties and do it right. Replace the hard lines with stock lines or make your own. If you are not up to making your own hard lines find a shop or web site that can make the lines at the correct length. Note: the fittings on Z cars are all 10 x 1.0mm double inverted flare.

Coils?