Tim240z

Primer, by default and regardless of brand, it not water proof and actually will absorb moisture, unless you get a catalyzed primer ($$$).... Tim

Get one of those super soaker water cannons and fill it with a mild bleach solution....that will take care of it!!

Turbo engines are pretty hefty...and they are long (L6s in general). THe beauty of the V8 conversion is that the weight is shifted rearward and that actually make the weight distribution better than stock.....

Damn purists!! Looks great, and after all that body work it's a great feeling...I know!! Tim

Well the front, with some shifting around of the X-member, you should be able to get perfect. For a road car, I always like to run a little toe in, and a little negative camber. For the rear, I adjusted mine to almost 0 camber (came out a little negative, but tiny amount), and just barely toeing in. Tim

Camber doesn't tend to wear tires all that quickly. But if you couple -ve camber, with toe out, like your left rear, you're gonna chow up your tires. Toe misalignment creates a 'scrubbing' effect on the tires. If your tires were pointed perfectly straight, but running significant camber (+ or -), there is very little rolling resistance...... Tim

Go ahead and cut and paste your response to the other thread, then delete this one..... Since you are the thread starter, you can delete your own threads

Easiest and cheapest solution would be to purchase offset (adjustable) bushings. They allow a whole lot of adjustment, but should be enough to get you in good shape. Tim

For the front camber, it looks like the cross member is over to the left (drivers) side too much. Try loosening the 4 bolts that hold the X-member and slide it over to the right. That will decrease the -ve camber on the left, and increase -ve on the right... Tim

Sounds/Looks great.....I wish I had some nice deserted roads like that around here....no play areas for me!!!!

I've always eyed that Corvette panel wondering how well it would fit......kudos for giving it a bash!! And you are a brave man ordering parts from Showcars!!! Tim

Depending on how it's wearing: IF the wear is 'feathered' and feels rough as you run your hand over it, then you have too much toe out. IF it's smooth, then too much negative camber..... Tim

Bryan, Yeah that's Stan's motor, which is an AWESOME deal. I know what's gone into that engine!!! Pony up Bryan and get it over with!! BTW...I am not hard core Domestic V8....I grew up with SBCs and was stripping and helping to rebuild them since I was 6 years old. I love boosted applications, and boosted SBCs would be the bomb, but I just don't have much experience with the Jap engines. I love the L6, but not so much as a performance engine. I think to get the kind of performance from an L6 (boosted or not), lots of $$$ have to be spent, and then the reliability (the main strong point of the L6) is lost. I ran a 2.8 L6 from a Skyline in my LandRover 88" short wheel base back in South Africa. It was a great setup!! Nothing could touch it off road, not even the new 'Discos' or 110 defenders!!! Just don't pigeon hole me.....for reliability/hp, domestic V8 is unsurpassed in my honest opinion. now back to the regularly scheduled topic......

Pull the IAC and clean it. Don't push, pull or twist teh plunger though. I used some Throttle Body cleaner (I couldn't resist buying it since it had a picture of the LT1 TB on the can). Then I lubed it with Dry lubricant spray. Also, connect up your VSS from the trans to PCM...it needs that signal. If you need to reset the IAC, hold the accelerator pedal down 1/4 way, start the engine and run for a few seconds. Switch it off. Then start as normal. This will reset the IAC motor. Look at this site. It is invaluable as a resource. I have copied the entire site to my PC incase it goes away. It's written by THE resident expert on CamaroZ28.com http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html

While you guys have a point, in reality it hardly works that way! Sure you could do the conversion with just teh basic drop in V8 and go, but the car would be a POS.....spongy suspension, brakes that are incapable of the speed produced etc etc.......it's the journey, not the destination......I mean how many guys, of all the guys who have, or are doing, conversions are doing the basic conversion? Not many, because to be honest, without teh supporting work, it's somewhat pointless.... Tim

If it was up to me, I wouldn't have any outside mirrors, but the CA Vehicle Code requires an outside driver's side mirror and inside mirror at a minimum.... http://www.racerwholesale.com/ Tim

Carbon fiber GT mirrors (driver's side only!) If you look closely, you can see it: Top one:

Someone has, but I don't remember who it was. Try searching for Z31 in the ChevV8 forum...... I'll try too..

Again...search function.....

Try this: Heat up the aluminum around the bolt. Grab the bolt with a vise grip and then get a can of compressed air (for cleaning keyboards etc), hold it upside down and spray (with the straw attached) the bolt with a quick burst. That will almost always do it. The aluminum expands and teh bolt shrinks with the cold....enough to break the rust free. Just don't spray the aluminum much, as it may crack.... Tim

Very lucid post, Michael!! And very true!!! I've probably got $15-$20 grand in my car and I've done EVERYTHING myself!! I have all the tools, and the know-how..... I got absolute deals on just about everything....esp. the LT1/T56, which I bought for less than most pay for just the T56. As has been stated many many times....it's the small items that kill you....the stuff in the $10 TO $100 range. The big stuff is the cheap stuff!! Tim

Man, some people have messed up lives!!!

Pick up the recycler classifieds...there are always 3 or 4 shops advertising in there... Tim