Tim240z

Matt, Only if you are flying into Los Angeles International. If that's the case....yeah, only 5 minutes (lterally). Let me know if you need a pick up, and ride to the car rental place or whatever. Tim

You will need to reflash the PROM. Easy enough with a computer, cable and TunerCat software. You will need to disable VATS, unless you transfer the whole ignition assembly (not worth it). As for using your car as a donor....depends how much you can get for it as is, and how much you can get for a shell. The PCM only controls engine and trans (if Auto). The radiator in the Z28 is too wide. There are cheap options though. Do a search on this site using LT1 as search word. You will need: JTR kit radiator hoses fuel pump headers (Z28 manifolds won't work) Personally, I think it is not much more difficult than a carb setup. I had the carbed engine all setup in mine with a 200 4R until I found a great deal on a LT1/T56 combo. There is tons and tons of info on this board. do a search and ALL of your questions will likely be answered. Tim BTW, before this, I had ZERO experience with fuel injection and with wiring up a PCM...it's not as hard as it may seem. Now I also have a 1994 Z28 for my daily driver (also a deal i couldn't pass up).

That is very cool!! Gotta love the ability to pull the body off the chassis!! I still think that a boosted 20b would be the perfect marriage with a roadster! TIm

Man O man....I would be more worried about my Z rusting to bits!!! Buy an old junker for winter driving!! Tim

Easy does it.....

Bump..... 6 folks confirmed so far. My Z will be painted this weekend (hopefully if the spray booth is available!!) and should be pretty much together by the bbq. (I'm gonna pull a Dan Juday and not post any pics until after the bbq ) Tim

Just do it by hand around the seals? Tim

I work for a major gas pipeline utility and we use cathodic protection throughout the system, using electricity and magnesium anodes. I think that the failure with idea in a car, is that the car is isolated from a ground (rubber tires). Unless you were to install a sacrificial anode of some type, I highly doubt that the system mentioned above would have any effect at all. Tim

Wouldn't it be easier just to put a sheet of stainless between the exhaust and the starter? Tim

Try one of the truck service centers. they can likely steam clean the undercarriage for you. Tim

You could always just take a gasket to a laser profile cutting place and have them cut them for you. It will be a little more expensive, but will be a perfect match. Tim

8) 8) 8) ...is that for real!!?? Tim

Problem is, you'll only have low beams Tim

Damn....you were going to fix those rails months ago Here is Alex's car today: Tim

Awwww....come on now, don't be so darn modest The only blemish I see is that nick on your hood. That is some straight a$$ body!! (absolutely no pun intended) Tim

Hmmm...look like Autometer Ultralites? 5" for the tach and speedo and 2 5/8 for the others? Looks great man!!! Tim

Damn Alex (and I say this to myself everytime you post a pic of your Z), those bodylines are straight!! That is one hellava picture of a very stunning vehicle!! Now.... where is that wankel power!!?? Tim

You may just have a bad starter. Get rid of the external solenoid. Get a gear reduction starter next time. Take the starter to the parts store and have them test it for you, just to be sure. 500* for the headers is actually quite low. I remember when Rick Johnson used the IR thermometer at my place one BBQ day and compared with Dave Booth's uncoated headers, there was about a 300* difference. Can't remember the exact numbers, but Rick's was something like 400* and Dave's was about 700* or so. How did you check the starter to test? Tim BTW...I have a spare, if you want to drop it in just to get going in the mean time. Was from my truck. Tim

Cyrus, What is your budget for the car? I may have a line on an original 1972 (was bought by the current owner in 1973). Perfect body, interior and general condition. Dash is perfect, and no visible paint bubbling or rust behind front tires, or in front of rear tires. Let me know. Tim

Upload the pics to the web somewhere (pic hosting site like imagestation etc), then in the post put the url of the pic between these: Tim

Try here: http://www.speedscenewiring.com/gmconnectors.htm Tim

Deleted the double post Tim

Don't be in a big hurry. After you are 100% sure that you did everything right, tightened all the bolts, set all clearances etc, stop and check everything again. Your first instinct, in the excitement to test your work, is to jump in and drive. Make sure you don't break something because you forgot to tighten a fastener or something. I don't want to see another..."I want to sell this car" post... Good luck! Tim

Check the sub assembly bolts too. The front sub assembly may have worked its way loose. Tim