Tim240z

Bob, The only problem that I can see with the location of the filler behind the license plate area is the gradient of the fill tube, it may not be steep enough to be able to fill safely with splashout. Tim

Bob, Terry (BlueOvalZ)made a great filling solution. Maybe there are some pictures on his site, or maybe he will chime in. Tim

maybe your pump jets are clogged? Sorry not too familiar with the Edelbrocks. Tim

Hmmmmm....Yummy Tim

Yeah, go V8. Maybe you can recoup some money on the stroker (just pull the piston and fix), unless you are in love with the I-6 and depending on how far you want to chase the engine as a money pit. Even a low performing V8 should give you the kind of happy driving that the stroker does. If you need any help with parts (engines etc) let me know. I have a bunch of SBC stuff, incl. an engine. Tim

If you want an "accurate" AFR meter, you need an industrial unit that can read AFR, and not just O2. Problem with just O2, is that the generic units just aren't accurate enough. In another post I was talking about the unit that I recently borrowed from work (many thousands of $$$) that show AFR to 2 decimal places, as well as %O2 and Lamda. Problem with O2 reading is that if you are zero, you still don't know what your AFR is. If there's no oxygen, there's no oxygen. Tim

Cool SBC RX7 on Ebay Tim

This very toic was discussed in detail a few months ago. Do a search and have a read. There are a couple of products on the market that do this very thing. Tim

Here

www.zcarparts.com

Try taking out the pads and roughing them up. I usually just rub the friction surface on the concrete driveway in a figure 8 motion. Maybe they got glazed? Also check the rotors for runout and make sure the calipers are sliding freely. HTH. Tim

Mike, It's a British chassis designer. Used to be very hot in racing circles. When I was in England this past summer, I saw some of the new models....very sweet, but $$$$$$$!! Here is a link: TVR- UK Scottie, definite cues from the Z car, huh? Tim

Try this.

Len, I've been looking for an Opel for months and can't find one that I like (cheap). Maybe we can make a deal? Can you give me info on condition (not worried about engine/trans etc, but mostly body, interior and structural integrity. Tim BTW, Where are you?

I asked the same question of the guy at Earls. Their hoses are always cut so cleanly. Anyway, he said to use a block of billet aluminum (yeah we all have those laying around), with a wide blade chisel (like the kind for cutting bricks). One swing of a hammer and 'Bob's your uncle'. Haven't tried it myself, but he swears by it. Tim

Well in the neverending endevour to get my twin Weber setup for better driveability I was able to borrow a AFR recorder from the lab at work. It's a very high Dollar industrial unit and is VERY accurate. It can display Air/Fuel ratio, %O2, Lamda and equivalence ratio. Question: What are the best setting for performance/driveability. Should I use AFR display and set up for Stoich. at idle and underload. The unit can datalog, so I can drive and get high rpm/high load #s Thanks, Tim BTW, I have already welded in the O2 sensor bung and have readings at idle of 14.56 (AFR).

Relay wiring is very easy: 1 wire from battery + to relay 1 wire from relay to lights 1 wire from relay to earth 1 wire from headlight switch to relay. Most relays have a little diagram on the housing somewhere, and if it's a 3 terminal relay, then the housing is the earth and should be mounted so that the housing is grounded. HTH. Tim

Kevin, Thanks for asking. I always wanted to know too, but I thought I was the only informationally challenged (ie dumb), so was afraid to ask. Keep 'em coming guys....(include car models too if you don't mind) Tim

Tried that already. The hub/rotor hits the Z caliper bracket/stub axle before the bearing are home. I really wanted to try the Jag calipers. You're right, they are heavy though. i have a JY set in my garage. I was trying to find a rotor that I could adapt to the Z hub to use with those calipers, but I couldn't find anything large enough, so I just gave up.TIm

Pete did that require an extra relay? If I remember, my 73 has no blower motor relay...as a matter of fact, I wonder if Datsun new about relays when they were building these cars Tim

Large forward shift of weight under braking. That's my story...... Tim

Could you not just program out the trouble codes from the LS1 PCM? That way when they hook up the reader it will show no trouble codes. Just a thought. I'm not to sure about the OBDII PCMs, but with my LT1 I disabled several trouble codes (air pump, A/C, EGR etc and set the EGR to only activate at 6700 RPM). Tim

There has been some info flying around about using a CRX (honda) blower motor to increase the air flow from the heater. I'm sure a few guys here have done it........if I remember right Lone has, but I know he is in the throws of moving, so I don't know if he will pipe in here. Tim

Call Scoggin Dickey and get a catalogue from them. Their cylinder head section has flow numbers on all the heads, GM and aftermarket. BTW, the Vortec heads flow better. Tim

Sounds like the vents are blocked and the tanks is pressurizing. Something you'll want to solve in quick order. Tim