Tim240z

Just be careful!! Those blocks cannot hold very much weight and they do have a tendancy to crumble!!

two seperate (identical) threads merged...

Damn!! That is pretty bad...I would start with another chassis, unless you have all the tools (welder, chop saw, grinders etc) and lots of time and patience. Depending on where you are it may be cheaper and easier to start with a better car. I have a line on a 72 orginal condition (uncracked dash etc etc) with next to no rust (some superficial stuff)....$2500

Just another day....sleep by 9pm, up by 4am.....

Please post topics to one forum only. Second post deleted. Please review: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=84963 Thanks...

To cool the crank snout, hold a can of compressed air (like for cleaning keyboards) upside down and spray......

That is a disgusting show of gratuitous T and A...terrible!!

I have never used a spring scale to set bearing preload. I was told that it was very important when I did my old SII land rover swb, but I have always tightened them by hand, then done the 12 oclock/6 oclock shake and tightened in very small increments until I felt no play. I never overtighten then back off. I have never had any problems with wheel bearings...ever. Although it is easier to do this before the calipers are back on, it doesn't really matter....a slightly loose bearing is better than an overly tight one IMHO, although just right is best Tim

You may have tightened the nut too tight. You don't want to overtighten the wheel bearings. Loosen the nut 3/4 turn and see if it's still tight to spin.

I was running the LT1-t56 and had 250s up front and 300 out back....ride was quite nice...firm, but comfy...considering.....not like I was expecting it to ride like a Coupe Deville

Looks nice....but finish repairing that floor....

Only LT1 heads will fit on LT1 blocks.....

Only thing I can think of, Mike, is that the keyway has slipped, or the crank has become scored. Also, sometimes when the keyway in the crank slips, it scores the damper 'slot' which creates havock. Maybe try cooling the crank snout and warming the damper......and copious amounts of WD-40...

That intake won't fit on the new gen LT1 heads, and regular heads won't work with the LT1 block. Get a complete engine with harness and PCM...piecing it together will end up costing more and will be a PITA.....

Get a mechanical gauge and get rid of the idiot light

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=97772

huh? What issue?

Coolant in the oil....likely a blown headgasket, or cracked head or block. The white smoke is a tell tale sign of burning coolant, and the milky oil is a tell tale sign of water in the oil pan.....bummer.....