RB26powered74zcar

Thats a R33 rb25det trans....

Chris, can you advise me where I can run this brown plug? Does it do the same thing the "T" shaped plug did on the externally reg Z car alt.? Should I run one of the wires in it to switched 12v, and the other to 12v batt post on the alt? I'm goofed up here with my alt hook up. Please help!

What do you mean by> Same scam...? It may just look funny because the person is from the Netherlands and is using a language translator

Thank You my friend, that is the most likely culprit.... I will check to see where I goofed up on that two prong "T" plug. Thanks to all who have helped so far.... I will keep you updated. I hate that feeling of having to wait to solve a silly issue before you can take your brand new project out for a nice test run. I can't wait to put these twins on full song...

I need some help with my alt hook up, as I'm not so smart when it comes to wiring.... I finally got my car up and started, but have a issue with the charging. I'm using a after market ecu with a laptop to show me the vitals while I have it idle in the driveway for now. My laptop shows the alt is putting out 13.5 - 14v but soon as my electric fan kicks on (thermostat switch turns it on @ 190deg) the charging system goes bananas... it jumps to 17 - 18v which throws my standalone ignition into a frenzy and makes it run like crap. What would cause the alt to spike up the charging volts like that? I must admit, I hooked the RB alt up to the Z wire harness very simple. I just hooked up the charge wire in the Z harness (the wire that was hooked to the Z alt + post) to the + post on the RB alt, then ran that to the + on the starter, then to the + post on the battery. I did not use any of the old external voltage regulator wires, and did not use the T connector (sensing and lamp I think). Basically, I think I have the RB alt hooked up like this: the heavy gauge wire in the Z car harness that goes to the power post on the Z alternator, is hooked to the power post on the RB alt, then I ran a heavy wire from there, off the alt to the starter, then from there to the positive on the battery. It works cause my laptop shows it charging at 13.5+ volts while running in the driveway. The problem I have is the spike when the fan comes on. What do ya think guys? Did I goof up the hook up of the RB alt? if so, how do I fix it? thanks in advance - joel

Check that the small vacuum lines that go thru the firewall to the round clear plastic vacuum tank are still there and hooked to it. Your heater system works off vacuum, and the vacuum container controls the heater valve that opens the hot water that flows thru the heater core, which your fan blows on for heat....

Some one is going to get a surprise when they receive that cover.... no wonder he kept that pic small, its not even the right cover for a Z mustash bar. It looks to me to be just a plain ol alum cover off a late model R200 (Z32 N/A etc.). Thats a nice way to sell something... show a whole pic of the part you will not get, and show a 1/2 shot of the one you will get.....

Your so right... I hate them with a passion....

I know of one female member.... Donna (D83ZXT) she drops in now and then.... uhhh... my screen name... lets see.... J. Soileau is my name, and I hate RB26dett's....

It may have to do with the ABS/speed sensor placement on the two different models. Some have the sensor holder bracket made into the rear cover, and some R200's have the sensor bracket made into the diff case at the nose of the diff..... Thats what I beleive the difference to be.

Bolt pattern is the same, but the mustash bar bolt spacing is different. j.

I have one exactly like that one, but in CF..... j.

You all need to make sure that your oil pan dosen't now hit the front cross member, now that your motor has been lowered by 2/3 - 1.5 inches..... j.

I had one of those SFP headers and believe I'm the only one out of the group that actually got a good one right off the bat... It made a hell of a difference in power when I bolted it on, as I'm sure this Greddy header will make. If I were looking for a nicely built turbo header for a L6 motor, I'd snatch this one up in a heart beat, then have it JET HOT coated..... j.

I found it the first try. Just enter the part # 2265 into the store search function.... http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?mfrpartnumber=2265 j.

Its as easy as removing the rear cover and having a look. Once removed, its simple to see if it has 1 cross pin, or 2.

http://forums.racebread.com/index.php

Here is a diagram. I found it using the search function.... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115715&highlight=fender+mirrors

Looks like the guy did indeed have one. Maybe he's just not quick to answer you back. His last log in was 2 days ago....

That pics made the rounds a few times now.... hell, it was even for sale on ebay a couple different times, by different scammers at that...lol. BTW, look at how wide that set up is. You'd have to have a 8' wide engine bay to fit that contraption into. Sure looks mean though, don't it...

I saw these pics on the Ausie boards....

Bullwinkle and Rocky..... j.

Very interesting..... looks promising.

It really does look nice.... oh, andyea, I'm the idiot for thinking the trim was still on the doors. Thats what happens when you turn a half a century old, and start loosing your sight....

I was going to ask why the crome trim with rubber sqeegy on the doors got painted, but then I read the Earl Schieb part.... Looks good though.... j