MAG58

XXL T shirt, charcoal, x2 46077

I'd be in

FWIW, the 6L80 is also based on the ZF 6HP design as well though with a few additional changes to put the TCM on the Valve body and using a different style of Pump (Vane vs. Gear). They do make controllers now that allow a 6L80/6L90 to talk to the aftermarket ECM's as well http://www.zerogravityperformance.com/product/tcm-2650-mechatronic-transmission-controller-6l80e-6l90e-6l50e/

Interested in the Ross pistons. Is the pin height for L28 or for a stroker setup?

Thanks! A 240 tank would work fine too because I'm 85% sure I'm going to put a surge tank in anyway so having the baffles or larger flow may not be as necessary. It has been a challenge but we must soldier on. I'm open to options so I'll check them out. I did not. I think people with carbed cars like them because they come baffled from the factory so it's easier to convert to EFI.

Let's bump this up. Still looking for an early 280 (75-76), 260, or 240Z Gas tank. Thanks Bob

For the most part done with school. Working in indy for now. Unfortunately probably moving again in late 2020 ish.

I am! After a long hiatus, I now have 2 Z's, a 72 and a 73. I'm excited.

PM Sent!

PM'd!

Looking for an earlier 280Z (with the full size spare) gas tank. Currently located in central Indiana but willing to travel or to pay for shipping. Bob

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

Trying to convert my 240Z to Megasquirt and would like to keep it as stock appearing as possible. Looking for an EFI Gas tank from the early 280Z with the full size spare, IIRC it's the 1975-76 cars. Located in Southern Indiana. Thanks! Bob

I never said all two strokes are valveless and since everyone has the intelligence to put in a 0.03 second search term they already know that. What is a pissing contest is jumping down my throat for stating once in that entire thread that I said ALL two strokes are valveless, which I did not. I was clearly referring to that individual engine. Unless to you with gearbox vs with is an obvious simple typographical error and the semantic It's referring to THIS engine in THIS thread and not every single two stroke ever made in the history of ever, and that your witch hunt isn't now as equally a pedantic pissing contest as my own, then whatever helps you sleep at night tony.

It does in this engine's case. Unless you want to count the reed valve packs. Still not enough to add up to 900lbs. But you already knew that. Just dense for density's sake.

Time to start saving...

What? You're telling me a 2-stroke, 3.6L V8 weighs as much or more than an all cast iron 5.9L Cummins and near, or double the weight of an all cast iron 350 chevy even though it's missing the entire valve train? I'm going to need some more proof there.

Long block is about the same size as an L28, I have it's gas counterpart sitting next to one. The 300ZX trans will not bolt up to it and you'll need an adapter if you want to go that route. MBZ made some manuals that will fit: the 717.410/.411 from the cosworth, the 717.430 from the 300E and 190E 2.6 and the 6MT from the later cars which used a 2.3L M111 engine. Additionally the gearboxes from the 2.7L Diesels across the pond will fit. If you go with a 6MT in a 240Z you'll probably want a 717.663/.668 which would probably hold 450-500whp assuming you don't regularly launch the car on drag slicks, cossie dog leg a little less. Flywheel requirement will be gearbox dependent. The Factory FI turo manis suck except for a rare non EGR 603 mani, so otherwise you'll be on your own building one. If you want to go 606 route you'll want an OM603 Turbo M pump, as those do not require the computer and have the turbo ALDA. Non turbo 606's can make 3-400 (IIRC) hp when boosted as well (smaller rods), but they also have better cams if you want to snag some for your turbo 606. Additionally all the engines are front sump, although the W140 is a sort of mid sump deal that might clear the cross member. The M104 oil pain might fit, otherwise you'll have to go fishing in europe for a pan, or make your own.

What kind of power goals are you interested in? This will determine how much of a challenge mating a manual will be to your OM601/2/3/5/6

So I added them without problem. However the issue I'm getting is that they will not update. It lists all postings as previously read which means they won't display natively in feedly.

I cant DD my car anymore because apparently old Z cars aren't "professional", but alas when I did, the biggest things I did to make it reliable was nix the mechanical fuel pump and put a reliable electric unit it, got rid of the crappy lights and put in relays. Between that and making sure the carbs are well tuned was all I needed. In the winter, just washing it as often as possible (2-3x a week) to keep the road salt off of it, and making sure the heater circuit was working well and the fan could keep the windows defrosted.

If that's the case than go for it. The M120, IMO is worth the trouble for the sound alone if it's only for a year, and it's getting to the point were the 500 and 600's are pretty much at the bottom of the depreciation curve.

The M120 is a phenomenal motor and I do adore the thing, and more importantly the sounds it makes. That said it had some common problems, most of which have to do with the seals around the front of the engine. It's not a terribly difficult engine to work on, there's just a ton of shit in the engine compartment. There is a ton of parts similarity between this engine and the garden variety M104 I6 DOHC's in the plebian benzes, so if you need parts you'll find you can mix and match from much cheaper models of mercedes. That said, the most important things to consider for this car are the maintenance records. If he's up on the maint. you wont get eaten alive. If it's not, may God have mercy on your soul. You HAVE to make sure everything works because hunting down electrical problems on a W140 is about a million times harder than it needs to be. This is MB's answer to the LS400 and since Lexus knocked MBZ flat on their asses when it came out, they decided they were going to put every gadget and gizmo that Stuttgart could even imagine in this thing. Make sure the engine wiring harness is in good shape. Ask to see if it's been replaced. If he has no idea, grab a bundle of wires and see if they're pliable or they crumble in your hands. If it's the latter, just say no. Handbuilt isn't really true in the purest sense of the word. It was pretty much built like any other MBZ, but they like complicating things, so more things had to be hand fitted. Body should be pretty solid, but check for rust spots around the front suspension points. Make sure the spring perches are solid, replacing those aren't cheap. If you can, see if you can go see the car after it's been sitting and cold for at least 24 hours. The car should still be at normal ride height. If it looks like some hipster got a hold of it and it's a set of 6000 dollar wheels away from a stanceworks feature, you're in for a burning in your pocket book. Take it for a drive. It should shift firmly, but not jerk. The 722.3 is a strong transmission, and it's reliable, but most of the problems rear their head on the 2-3 shift, downshifting, and shifting into reverse. All of these should happen with authority, but not feel like its about to rip your teeth out. If it's all in good order, it really is a wonderful car. You'll have a whole new definition of comfort, and the car has incredible road presence. I think the trunk has room for 2 or 3 bodies, and at least 10kg of coke along with that...

I have an EPC account, what are you having trouble with? You'll have to put in your VIN and CC#, but your number will never be charged. I think I still have my old cc# in there.

You have no idea. Trying to find technical information for an MBZ is fraught with idiots and purists asking why you need to know because mercedes made it perfect from the factory so you don't need to touch it.