MAG58

How does that help anything? Figure out your horsepower and budge goals. Be realistic. If you're planning any dd duty ever you're not going to need 500whp. Once you've got these numbers figured out in your head do as others have already suggested. Browse the garage as well as the RB forums to see what their setup is like. Once you figure out what you'd like, go for it!

Not my cup of tea, but after doing that kind of detail work to a model airplane for R/C Scale, I can tell you that takes A LOT of work. And it looks fairly realistic, though I'm not sure how I like his panel lines. Kudos either way.

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

Been there.

Where did you mount the chassis mount on the droop limiters? Do they always just mount to the top of the strut tower or is there a better location to mount them?

The Key is to hide them from the world 6ish months of the year.

The Current game plan is to adapt a G265 Trans to the M104. I also only have two months to find one since my CNC guy is moving away... Finals don't have anything on that kind of stress...

Lucky for me I'm not an engineer and after living on the coast (Miami for 5 years, northern florida for 5 so half my life? Damn...that is short), I can tell you that without a doubt, our family Cost of Living here is much lower. That said, most of the good 'hard science' (straight chemistry, biology, ect.) universities are located here in BFE. I guess they have nothing better to do than to poke squishy things with sticks and see what happens most days of the year, who knows. But Our acre-and-a-bit house here near a good school in a decent housing area cost pennies-on-the-dollar to what quater acre lots are going for in south FL. I mean I hate the cold, God knows I HATE the cold weather. But on the bright side, once it dips into the teens or below, you cant feel your hands holding onto a freezing cold ratchet. That meanse that when you break something loose and rip all the skin off of at least 3 fingers, nick some veins and arteries, etc, it doesn't hurt until after you can make the bleeding stop! That said, the weather's ok 1-2 months out of the year, my state isn't broke (talk about cost increases, I wanted to go to UCSD med school until I saw what was happening to tuition prices), unlike the eastern seaboard most people have souls, The middle-east isn't going to fall off into the pacific any time soon, science schools are good around here, and we're not governed by the terminator. Michigan might suck, Chicago really isn't anything fancy, but the rest is a-ok in my book. Now if only I can drive my horrible smoggy z around more so global-warming can finally kick in and it can be 60 degrees in the winter. Middle-jan through early september here are already near desert like, so I might as well focus on making winter survivable...

I would be completely OK with getting a job here in pointless mid-west. Why? Cost of living is lower than the pretty locations (places within 1000miles of a major body of salt water) which gives me more money to spend on cars...

You have an L28E. No reason to need the strength of a late model 300ZX trans. Want better gas mileage? Get a 280ZX NA trans (search for ID info) (the later 5 speed), you're in CA so they should be around to be found for cheap. It's a whole lot easier to bolt in and you'll get a nice tall 5th.

So I've been trying to start beefing up the driveline in prep for the M104, and the next to go were the old u joints for some 280ZXT Tripods. That said, I'm using the 1982 ZXT 3.54 R200 and the same companion flanges on the stub shafts, with modified seals. From what I've found searching, some have had binding, some have not and the proper technique to install them is to drop down the LCA's, stuff the ZXT half shafts in under roughly full compression, and then rotate the LCA back into place. My issue: The halfshafts are so long that under full compression, the lca isn't anywhere close to it's mouning points. It's over 2'' away. They're rebuilt half shafts (MY 1982), and I've been doing this on the passenger side first using the corresponding right side half shaft. Literally no amount of compression gets them any where close. Any ideas why?

Well... I mean you can... Here are your options. 1. Remove the motor. Everything is easy to get to and you're finished with endlessly craning over the fenders to take stuff off. 2. Leave block in car. Remove the front cross member, front swaybar, and all that jazz. Use engine hoist to hold up motor since you for some reason want the block still in the car (but you just unbolted the engine mounts). Remove transmission so you can get the crank out. Now that the only thing sitting in the bay is the block it self supported by the engine hoist, you can climb under the car in a cramped environment and gingerly drop a 30+lb crank on yourself. FWIW, I always chose option 1. Once you've chosen your method of operation, everything has to come off that wraps around the crank. Bearings 4 and 7 are going to be a pain (middle and rear) but please get something to thread into the caps and pull them don't just jam some screw drivers in the bolt holes and wiggle them to freedom (you laugh, I've seen it happen). That includes the bearings, front cover and pump/dizzy. Technically you can leave the clutch on to get the crank off (the rear seal is going to come with) but it's a major pita. IIRC I think the procedure should be in the FSM somewhereish. You can download it at XenonZ31.

Congrats man! I'm still amassing my small fortune. I think I'll squeak out of under grad just shy of 20k, but I still have med school to look forward to paying...

Can you shift into fifth? When you do does the output turn faster than the input? Congrats you have a 5 speed. Full pics of the trans would be handy.

He originally drove a CLEAN 2+2 Auto. The proceeded to run it into poles, break windows, and other sundry horrors to defile the poor thing.

Hell is very much thawed. The cubs have yet to win a series in the last 102 years. ...and the M104 is still searching for pistons...

Maybe everyone is collectively broke and they toys have been pushed back? Then again, when I'm broke I'm here researching, and I'm always here... so you extrapolate. But all the forums being slow at once???

I know a couple of pro stock guys around here that get a season out of their motors running diesel ans 120ish psi of manifold pressure. It's like any motosport where you take what the motor was designed for, and then tack an exponent on it.

Machine shop: Needs bored. You: What was the clearance? (You should know all these figures before starting) MS: It just needs bored (they're jerking you around at this point) Don't let them do any work until you get the numbers and figure out if what they're telling you is right or not. Ask for cylinder bore sizes and piston bore sizes if you don't trust them and do the maths by yourself.

IMO I always pull out the mics when I'm rebuilding a motor. iirc, L28 piston/bore tolerance is around .002 or a lil less. When I pull motors I usually see .003-.004, which isn't a lot but still out of tolerance. If it's a nice low mileage motor a set of bearings and rings and your off to the races, but for all the work I'm already going to pull the thing apart to inspect everything, running the pistons out of tolerance in an otherwise completely rebuilt motor seems a little too half-a$$ed to me.

Numbers that aren't .020, .040, .5, 1 etc are not oversize numbers. Those are nissan sizing ID numbers. That usually means they're factory pistons. Even though they were all 86mm, they were measured and then individually sized (you should see a corresponding 34 or 56 etc stamped next to the cylinder the piston is in. I recently pulled apart an L28 ET block that has 250k on it and it still had cross-hatching on the bores. It needed a 1mm over to clean it up and get it back into spec. The best way to actually check for wear is do what's already been said, pull the pan and check the bearings. Pull the #4 main cap and see how hard they were on it by checking what the thrust bearing looks like.

For the last half a century, I'd pretty much consider the F-Body (Superchicken, Camaro) the defacto car for someone who needed to portray themselves as a hard ass without actually being able to do so by their lonesome.

Needle gun will get the job done no problems, but please wear hearing protection. Those things are LOUD.

Got'cha covered. 7M-GTE Weight L24 weight should be in there too.