MAG58

What happens when you need to bumb around the pits in style?

Ron beat me to it. Is he incapable of reading that big ol' chart in that glass cockpit of his that tells him the minimums he can fly at?

Pics?

I've been getting the same, about 50/50. A few of the guys at peach parts have been running them on their turbo benz's (It's really the only game in town) and they feel grabby alright, but when the turbo gets down to business, the holding pressure on about half the clutches installed isn't much more (if any at all) than the stock sachs units.

Well, apparently Ron turned 107 just a little bit ago, so one could assume Paul is hot on his heels...

Well the bay should have looked like this... and yes it's that beautiful. And to geezer, My old man was heavily into D/E types, and I have a bit of a thing for them as well, gorgeous car. I think my dad even has a set of D-type cams and triple SU's somewhere... HMMMmmmm

Oh great Youtube fun... Those of you in college can appreciate this vid.

Happy Birthday BRAAP! So what will the days festivities include? The ban hammer? Picking up on the monthly quota of shedding?

Could turn out to be a Nice series one car. Then again take the no rust thing with a grain of salt. My PO promised there was no rust. ...Then my foot fell through the painted over floorboard.

The north plays dirty. You've seen the kind of shifters they use...

What's the duration on the cam? Should make for an angry sounding Z car. (Maybe that P&P could be put to better use on some SBC heads )

I've always thought the 275 GTB/4 was a prettier car Either way, the sound of a 60's Italian V12 at full song is something that will make your hair stand on end, and it will be something I will never forget.

As a Mini owner, you'd die if you hit an over fed squirrel in one, much less a much larger piece of metal than yourself hurdling around the racetrack. Besides, to drive a mini is 2 hours of work to take it to the grocery store in back, then you have to re-wire it when you get home!

Do you have the trans out? If you do look at the front layshaft bearing, it's visible from the front of the transmission just below and to the left of the imput shaft. If it has "timkin" written around the outside, it's a WCT5

So did skibby, chey, and/or paul throw a rusch motorsports p&p on it?

I personally used a very thin coat of risoline on mine. The PO decided that he needed 7-800 ft/lbs of torque to keep that pan on there (most of the bolts broke off in the block) so the pan could only be straightened so much. A super thin smear of risoline on each side of the oe gasket and she hasn't leaked a drop since *knocks on wood*

See if this helps http://www.5speeds.com/t5/

I really like what the guys at nico club did. http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=456714&postid=5150713

Cant beat that. Make sure they're clean and go for it.

They're about the same as most chinease forged units. Are we talking 300hp 6cyl or 4cyl? Depending on the motor, a stock set of rods, with some rod bolts and maybe some shot-peening would do just fine. However, I've seen good results in multiple platforms with eagle rods, but I have heard some things about discrepancies in dimensions, so before you put them in, I would mic all the machined surfaces to make sure they meet spec.

I don't think there is a problem with the 720 trans, you'd have to put a different bellhousing on it if it came out of a Z motor, since it leans the wrong way (it's still the 71B iirc, so taking a Z car front off of a trans and putting it on yours shouldn't be difficult) The one thing I'm not sure you'll like is the 1st gear. All the truck transmissions I've seen (including the one on my dad's 720) have super low 1st gears.

Great point. On a 'street' engine that puts out enough power that you have to run forged pistons, making sure the engine gets to operating temp before it's driven is always a must. However, on a real street engine, cast pistons are the way to go. They aren't as flexible as forged (which is why forged pistons are used in race applications, they can handle adverse conditions [read detonation] better than cast can) but they do substantially better than forged units during cold start and winter driving. ... Could be why I don't ever understand people that think they need a 1000hp daily driven car. Anyway, if you cant find ITM's, 1 fast z sells good cast pistons, and I think he may have the turbo CR as well. His company is B&M Machine, iirc. Also, keep an eye here on the classifieds, a set came up about a month ago of NIB ITM L28ET pistons.

Agreed. The point of adding a line lock is for driving on hills. A line lock can really only hold the car for about a minute before the fluid leaks back down. If you're using it to battle those annoying drivers that run up to your bumper on a hill start, the line lock is a good call. If you're looking for something to keep your car from running for freedom after you shut it down for the night, a few well placed pieces of masonry is the way to go.

www.ratsun.net home to a very interesting (wonderful?) group of datto fanatics. http://www.190rev.net --- Fighting the good fight against eurotrash for something from the EU that's actually tasteful.