JSM

Yeah keep Z, get another toy! Based on your price points of other cars your looking at, it doesn't seem that necessary for you to sell it.

So just to be clear you want the actuator or the turbine housing?

Looking for just one, but if you have more let me know. Thanks

Not mine. I did look at it. To much rust for me. PM if you have any questions. https://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/d/1972-datsun-240z/6283018950.html

Oddly, I believe I do. I can shoot you some pics if you want to check it out.

She does look sexy though!

Should be able to reuse your old harness as the sockets should be the same. There is a wiring fix you need to do at the light switch to separate the blinker function from the tail lights so the tail lights work correctly (No brake light via the Amber lens.) http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/32228-modify-us-240z-rear-turn-signal-wiring-jdm-style/ This is one but there are others I've seen too.

You know your right. I can't log in either with my phone. It acts like you log in and even says you do but then nothing.

Did you clear your cache? Settings- > Safari -> Under Privacy and Security (Clear History and Website Data). I had a problem with my home cameras and it fixed this. Then log back in to hybrid.

Thank you.

I've got a turbo junk yard motor I wanted to check out before bothering to install and wanted to do a leak down test on it. I have heard the process is to set it at TDC on the compression stroke for each cyclinder, but can someone tell me why it really matters? If the piston is at its apex regardless of cycle, both valves are closed.

Oil pump installed correctly? What does that mean? If the motor is seizing, your not likely getting oil pressure. You may have a bad oil pump or plugged pick up screen. Did you have the oil pan off before you installed the motor in the car?

With the engine set at TDC is the rotor pointing at the number one spark plug wire in the distributor?

I guess it all depends on the HP your putting down. Let me know how it turns out. Curious to how it's all going to fit together. Seems everyone is putting them in the s30 but I can't recall anyone putting them in the s130.

All 88.

Why do you need to install the 300zxt axles? Just install your current CV axles. They plug right in. Then post the 300zxt axles for sale here. I'm sure someone will want them. If your set on using 300zxt axles, the 280zxt stub axles (wheel side) are 25 spline same as the 240z. I doubt the 300zx are 25 spline. Maybe ask Litman to count them. The 280z stub axles are 27 spline count. If the 300zx OEM flanges are 27 spline, you will have to source a set of stub axles from a 280z to use the 300zx flange. Also you'll want have litman measure the length of the flange to compare against the ZXT you have to make sure it all fits. My quick google search for 300zx spline count didn't find much. If I were you, I would just use your ZXT axles and be done. These are stub axles.

1/2 way not there meaning ... it's hard to turn one way and not the other? First make sure it's full. Then try it again. I have an old chevy truck 2001 that doesn't leak at all. One way it turns perfect. The other way it's like what power steering. Still haven't figured that out. I drive it once a week to mow my rental property grass so no worries. One day I'll get around to it.

I don't have what I think your after, but are you looking for stock companion flanges off the 300zxt or the custom companion flanges to use the 300zxt axles on the s30 chasis? Or are you looking for the axels themselves that are for the 300zxt?

Yes. If it is the boot after the afm and before the throttle body your introducing unmetered air. Get a friend, wife, parent, bum, rock to give it gas while you hunt. Also go read up on what your working on. You can download the whole FSM for free. http://www.xenonzcar.com/s130/fsm.php

That is the stock fuel pressure regulator (fpr). It shouldn't make any noise with the car off or on really. It sounds to me that in working on your injectors you tore, cracked or bumped a vacuum line. While the car is running, take a hand held propane torch turn the gas on lightly and hold it around all the different vacuum lines you think you hear a sound. If you find the leak the rpms should increase. Just as an FYI you don't light the torch! You can do the same thing with carb cleaner but it is a little more dangerous.

I think 79-80 should be the same. Honestly the differences are bumpers which would likely swap ok too and the rear tail lights are different. I think they should be swapable too but you have to use the brackets from the year you take the lights from. Not sure if the 79 had auto air or not but avoid those if possible. Just more headaches. I'm sure there are other nuances too but I think overall pretty much the same. Also I don't think any 79 had T-tops and in the later years it's very hard to find slick tops at all. Good luck on your search.

Rats. Sorry worth a shot.

Looks like you can still get new. Double check to make sure it is the right part: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension/9 http://www.courtesyparts.com/oe-nissan/54320e4100

I know it is baffling. I'd suggest creating a new eBay account and modify the ad. I'm sure if you try and contact Nissan it will go into the ether.

Looks like you can still get OEM. Double check to make sure I got the right part number. Should be number 15 on the list. That was a PITA to find! Didn't think I was going to find it. http://www.courtesyparts.com/oe-nissan/48750e7705 http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/steering/steering-wheel