JSM

I thought you just needed the plug from the one thread I had read.

I have one, but not a set.

Understood. My thought was to run the PCV, before the AFM so it could be metered and vent the valve cover , but with the oil vapor aspect of it it probably wouldn't be good for the AFM!

Yes the shaft won't spin. I can see if I can free it up. When I pulled it off the cars years ago I noticed. i just put it in a box, that I finally just went through since i've moved. Oddly, I still have a pic of the car!

So with that logic removing both PCV and valve cover inlet from the EFI intake would eliminate any AF ratio issues from normal combustion?

I have on a froze up. It came off an 82 ZXT with low miles 90k that sat for a long time. $50 shipped.

So V2 is a customer one? Or just a second one? I might have missed it.

I am curious though, from a pure air to gas ratio burning in the cylinders, how does the air entering into the block have anything to do with the calculation needed by the EFI for normal operation? Is the amount of air (pressure from combustion) somehow entering the combustion chambers and the ECU has to compensate for this during the normal cycle of the engine? I know from Paul's post on page one he had to adjust for this because he vented the valve cover so it has to, But if both the block and valve cover were vented outside of entering the intake, an adjustment to the EFI would still be needed?

Thanks. Totally forgot about the timing chain hole. Why is the crankcase vented to the PCV with no vacuum at WOT but the valve cover is run to the intake hose after the AFM but before the TB? At WOT, why wouldnt both be Plummed between TB and AFM? Or even at idle for that matter. At WOT there is no vacuum and the PCV is closed. So the closed loop is drawn back through the valve cover but is not metered because it's after the AFM? Or because it is after the AFM it's already been read? EDIT: I got it I read the FSM! Go figure. It does reverse at WOT. Thanks Chickenman.

Funny I was just going through this myself. My car is a 71 and someone threw in a 72 console. Did not fit right at all. Only have the pics because I'm still in the process of installing it. The 72 is longer than the 71 for sure. You would have to redrill 3 extra holes to secure the rear by your seats and likely do some sort of mods to get the front mounted in correctly. 71 is on right side. I think if you use the ash tray as the positioning point you may be able to do it.

Why do you have the plastic seat risers under the seat mounts and double nuts? Why not just eliminate them? Looks good otherwise. EDIT: Oh geese, 2009 thread sorry.

FYI. 72-73 are different than the 70-71. Choke cables are different defrost switch is different and fitment in general is different and ash tray is too.

Old thread yes. Paul is there a reason the Valve Cover Breather has to be tied there? Can it be tied back into the PCV valve underneath the intake like the block? I was wanting to eliminate it from the TB.

Nobody?

Yep. I tried getting a few parts right away and they were gone.

Can you post these images again? Or anyone else. I tried to PM you blue and you can't accept new PMs.

I have an entire N42 intake with those parts for $125 plus shipping.

Curious how you store a fuel pump so when you do some testing sometime in the future you have a good pump you can use? For now I've removed all the lines and ran it until empty turning it upside down back and forth. Then store in a large zip lock bag. Would it be good to run some lubricant of some kind as well? The last one I did just like above was dead when I tried using it. Granted it was an old 70's pump.

What's the asking price on yours Lee? Or the one your representing? Video didn't play for me.

I have one but it is froze up it came from a low mileage car that was sitting for a long time. $40 plus shipping. I can shoot you a pic if you want.

Assuming you want an exhaust manifold?

I would unplug your ECU and check to ensure there is no corrosion on the ECU or plugs.

Servo is there. Do you want the dash switch too? I can't verify functionality so how does $25 plus shipping sound? If blu can verify his is/was working I would go with his.

Let me look on my 79 parts car tomorrow.

I'm not well veresed on the Laurel C32/Skyline R31, but how does that apply to the Z31? Or are you making the reference to the M30? No worries either way. More curious then anything.