fastzcars

Blueoval, I think he's talking about the short stubs that go in the diff. In the link to the pic you can see http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=5285&cat=500&ppuser=11402the diff and the stub shaft in the back ground.

Was your Z parked in the same spot as the corolla?

You shouldn't have to clearence too much more if you had the 700r4 in there before. I have to make room for the skip soleniod and the reverse switch. You may have to elongate the mounting holes for the tilton,but it's aluminum and it's really easy. Oh, and the clevis for the clutch pedel to the master needs to be threaded for the tilton. The titon is american standard and the datsun metric, but they are VERY close in size and thread pitch. My tap barely took of metal off the clevis you might not need to do that.

Just a FYI guys, I found in the Fortes Perfromance website an adapter plate to mate the LS1 T56 trans to a t5/Muncie trans bolt pattern to have the T56 bolt to a bellhousing/scattersheild to the first gen SBC. http://www.fortesparts.com/catalogDisplay.cfm?cat=107.

This is how she sit's now after the accident, It's STILL in paint jail:( The third pic is how she looked before the 18 wheeler ran me to the wall.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107238&highlight=hyundai. I think the years are late 80's to early 90's excels hade the side markers.

That cam looks like it's made from billet steel? I thought GM only install cast cams in there cars. Just a thought, if all the lobes are not ground down too far, you could have the cam reground. Just a thought:mrgreen: .

Here's a site that's I bought my trans,clutch, bellhousing setup from. Call them up, they were very heplfull.http://www.fortesparts.com/.Here's another place that some here have used.http://ddperformance.com/ and http://www.darkhorseperformance.com/. Do a goole search on tremec, you'll get quite a few hit's. Car Craft magazine did a conversion of a first gen camero to a T56 6 speed. The info in that artical can be applied to the t5 as well.http://www.carcraft.com/howto/1061/index4.html. http://www.keislerauto.com/gm/index.html. That should get the ball rolling for ya.

I just Thought that ther should be links to 2 of the places that can provide conversion kit's. Johns Cars makes a kit for the LS family of motor'shttp://www.brokenkitty.com/ And Jag's That Run (aka JTR) make's a kit for the first generation Small Block Chevy's (SBC). General V8 Z swap page: http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html Datsun Z V8 conversion parts: https://shell7.tdl.com/~jags/Datsun_Order.html Datsun Z V8 manual order page: https://shell7.tdl.com/~jags/OrderingBooks.html Ya, I know eveybody should know this, it's common knowlege, but I was thinking these links might just cut down on the newbie questions.

Ussbar, That's a loaded question. First you have to decide what you want the car to do, Street/Strip/Track? How much horse power do you want? Does your car have to be rebuilt? Suspension, brakes have to be in top order, because even a mild V8 can easily double the HP that the stock 6 cylinder has. Is this your first conversion? If so, do you have the room,time,money to finish the conversion? Back to the original qestion,the easiest way to get a drivetrain is to get the whole setup from a wrecked car. I know that alot of guys here will say that the LS1 family of motor's are the best for such a conversion, but if your like me and have never delt with ECU's,sensor's and such, then a carbed motor is hard to beat. Here's Pete's excelent website for more details on a first gen SBC swap.http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/. Oh and one more thing, do a little searching. Guys here have answerd this kind of question ALOT. We don't mind answering SPECIFIC questions, It's the general open ended questions that don't get response's.

Heres are 2 places that should get you started.http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html.http://www.brokenkitty.com/

Here's 3 pix of a car, this should help you out.

You could call all the connecting rod makers back and try to find a H-beam rod that's close to 750-760 grams and balance it to the rest of the 7 rods. All of the manufacturers usually have a weight chart of there rods. As long as it's as close as you can make it, I doubt that the balance will be off that much. I know that SCAT balances their rod sets to +/- 2 grams. And I got my machine shop to balance them to within 1/2 gram. Just my 2.

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html

You could have corrosion in the old rear hard lines, it could be restricting flow to the rear's. DON'T put the prop valve in the front. You could also reinstall the stock 240z master cylinder to get more modulation. Since the piston is smaller than the 280zx, you then would have more pedel travel. I installed the 280xz master and didn't like it so I reinstalled the stock one back on, I liked the feel much better. Remember this is a very personal feeling. Everybody's taste on what they like their pedels feel like varies.

Here's a pic of a engine mounting system I bought from P.A.W. Maybe this will give you soem help. They are actually 2 idenicalhttp://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/graphequ@pacbell.net/detail?.dir=/e8e5&.dnm=fdd0.jpg&.src=ph pieces. P.S. I used a funiture dolley to support the trans while I was installing it to the engine.

Bartman, ARP also makes a teflon thread sealant made for head bolts, It saids on the tube that it's specially made so that you get the correct torque reading's.

http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/t56_early_gm.htmlWell another option is to send your trans to a shop and have it modified with a adapter plate made to fit the T5 bolt pattern. Here's where I bought my trans from.http://www.fortesparts.com/catalog.cfm?catalogID=2 And another. http://www.ddperformance.com/ And here.http://drivetrain.com/main.html

Here's the Hod Rod Artical about them stuffing the LS7 into the Soltice. It has some info on the accessory drive and a listing of GM part numbers. Hope that helps.http://hotrod.com/projectbuild/hdrp_0605_pontiac_solstice_project_v8_engine_build/.

I just searched for "T56 adapter" and I got this.http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=89943&highlight=t56+adapter http://www.weirhotrodproducts.com/

I bought my trans 3 to 4 years ago, Price then was almost $1995, now that was a special price because they were still developing the adapter plate. I seem to remeber that they only sold to 2 to 3 units at that time. I bought the whole setup from them as well, the bellhousing,clutch,and hydrolic throwout bearing. So I were pretty confident it would all work out together. Total price was about $2700.

I'm running a very similar setup. I got my trans from a place called Fortes Performance. It has an adapter plate that bolts to the T5 bellhousing.They made it for the 2000 ford cobra R trans with the wide spaced gearing. It's rated at 450 ft/lbs .I figured with our V8's having such a wide torque band, the wide gearing wouldn't be a problem. Plus I wanted the extra tall 6th gear for freeway driving. A side benifit is the shifter location was perfect, no cutting required. Heres acouple of links on the trans. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/graphequ@pacbell.net/detail?.dir=/e8e5&.dnm=8ff1.jpg&.src=phhttp://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/graphequ@pacbell.net/detail?.dir=/e8e5&.dnm=2078.jpg&.src=phhttp://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/graphequ@pacbell.net/detail?.dir=/e8e5&.dnm=7f07.jpg&.src=ph

Why don't you get a 14 spline clutch disc? That would be the cheapest way to go. Does the trans actually bolt up to the bell housing? Another thing you have to think about will be the the output yokes spline count as well.

Oh I forgot to add the most important ingredient, The internet. WE can communicate SO FAST now. Just e-mail to all your contacts and BAM you've reached 10,20, 100 people at once.

You can support me by not buying from EXXON, That's all. If all of america stop buying from them for 1 year, do you really think it won't hurt them? It only takes a match to start a forrest fire! We just have to pass the word around to all our friends and co-workers .