Trevor

Raybestos Boot/Seal Rear Caliper Repair Kit Part Number: WK1297 2 req'd per car $22.99 at Advance Auto Dorman Rear Caliper Repair Kit Part Number: D351297 2 req'd per car $11.99 at Advance Auto

Pinto (with 302 V8 swap) Elvis or Jerry Lee?

Since I have little to no experience with automatic transmissions, I put this off as long as I could. But the noisy transmission was getting louder, and making me more nervous. I did a lot of research and got a pre-94 pull out from the local recyclers. It took me 2 days to R&R this 200 pound beasty. I'm sore from crawing in and out from under the van to grab the right size tools. (I need a short skinny toolbox on casters!) I swear Ford used every bolt size from 8mm to 19mm just for good measure. Except for the torque converter bolts, they are still 3/8"-24 SAE and stupid me I tried to un-torque one with a 12-point socket. Rounded that baby off like it was made of plastic....GRRRRRR. Quick trip to harbor freight tools for a set of bolt extractor sockets (like a really aggressive METRINCH) later and its all apart on the floor. I thought surely I had the torque converter seated propery in the forward pump gears of the replacement transmission, (felt like 3 clicks) but apparently not. I didn't read the write-up that says there will be 1/2" of clearance between the bolts and the bellhousing - until too late. So I bolted it all up and......motor is locked against the trans and won't turn. Drop the trans, assuming the forward pump gears are crushed (everything I've read says they will be) So I order a remanufactured pump, and start all over again. GRRRRR. When I went to roll my modified transmission jack under the van for the 3rd time, it dumps ball bearings all over the floor. So I need to overhaul the jack before I get back to the van. GRRRRR. Trans $800, Seal, Pan gasket and filter $27, torque converter $FREE, Reman pump $130, 16 qts fluid $32, angle iron to modify trans jack $18.....what's next? This adventure will soon be exceding the $1,000 limit I "mentally" set when debating on DIY or just paying for it at Aamco.

Every time he sees my Z, this old boy tells me the same story about raising Heck in the early 1970's his friend's 240Z.....which was so fast because it had the factory 6-pack carbs!!! I have the 240Z, 280Z, 280ZX, 300ZX Chilton's book that covers all Zs from 1970 to 1989, so it does have photos of the VG 3.0L V6, along with the I6 in the engine chapter.

Yes, it is a thermocouple. http://www.temperatures.com/tcs.html Sears sells an inexpensive one for digital multimeters: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482377000P?vName=Tools&cName=ElectricalShop&sName=Multi-Meters,%20Testers%20&%20Accessories&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/M3-SMG-LOOK-SHIFT-PADDLE-MUSTANG-FOCUS-NEON-SRT4-CAMARO_W0QQitemZ140249404571QQihZ004QQcategoryZ33704QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Looks like it was originally designed for a Klingon battle cruiser.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38335 If you don't have a lot of storage space...

There are 3 NAPA stores. http://www.napa.aw/

I don't see a chassis, just a torque tube holding the engine to the transaxle. It looks like she would also need a frame or unibody to tie the front and rear suspension cradles together..... I'm thinking: http://www.kitcarmag.com/featuredvehicles/0703kc_march_2007_last_chance_garage/photo_02.html

Stock parts: Fronts are 16in and the rears are about 15.5in. long. Rate for fronts 100lb./in. rears 125lb./in. Tokico lowering springs: Fronts are 11.5" long vs.11 1/8" for the rear. Rate depends on # coils, wire diameter, etc.... Have a hydraulic press and a bathroom scale? squeeze the mystery spring in a press, on top of a bathroom scale. Preload about 1 inch(25.4mm) , record how many pounds (or Kgs). The carefully measure while you squeeze it down 1 more inch, subtract the 1st weight from the 2nd to determine the spring's static working rate in lb./in.

I had a problem with my Z31T running too lean under boost. Underneath the upper intake plenum on the VG30 I found there is a mass of rubber vacuum hoses. After 20-24 years they dry out, rot, split and create a manifold leak. Start by replacing all of those hoses.

I always liked the Kelmark GT for it's Dino-inspired lines. Only thing that always bothers me is that fat A-pillar. It looks like a horse collar on a whippet and the body seam is not parallel to the glass. But that's what happens when they combined the Pinto windshield with a side window from a GM car (Chevette?)

I used to have the Eastwood stitch welder ($60 attachment to my ARC welder). It worked OK as long as I used their "Special" rods ( teeny diameter 1/16" ) and cut them in half. I used it for a few projects to weld in the floor pans in my Mustang and some quarter panel patches on my Spitfire. When I got my Z, I decided it was time for the MIG.

My wife always pronounces the "S" at the end of Illinois. Other than that, she's pretty smart.

Search on "DARIUS"

20" - PN 3200: http://www.transmissioncenter.org/speedometer_cable.htm

Have you seen the movie "Tucker"? They staged the same thing in a newsreel ad, mechanic lifts the hood and there is no engine up front....

Indiana Jones x3 box set. Make some popcorn, i think a movie marathon is coming soon to a living room near you.

It has happened to me a few time this morning.

King Midget Fiat 850 Invite some friends over to help with assmeblY:

I saw some bell-shaped sink drain pipe fittings in plumbing at Home Depot. And I thought of velocity stacks..... Bath drains are 1-1/4" dia. (32mm) and Kitchen drains are 1-1/2" (38mm). They were chrome plated and less than $3 each.

Hook a bungee cord between the glovebox and the gearshift to hold the trans in 5th.

Waiting for a break in the weather to go look at the Biarritz seaside.

I am going to some fun places next trip: June 2-7 Dusseldorf, Germany June 7-8 Paris, France June 9 Dax, France June 10 Zurich, Switzerland June 11 Singen, Germany $1 = 0.635687 EUR (that's BAD right?)