z240

I believe the best bolt in replacement is from a Z31 VG motor. Almost all the old Z/Zx AAR are likely to be less then perfectly functional

If no one closer responds I have one (either side!) for you up here in Western Canada. Postal rates to the US are cheap. I wish the reverse was true.... PM me or z240@shaw.ca

There are some great and cheap panel mount chargers. Biggest thing of all is make sure you get the 2.1 Amp output ones or your I-device will not be happy..... I put mine on the side of the console on the passenger side, up front quite far.

Sound deadening is a complex problem. To simplify, it is often covered in two broad areas. High frequency and low frequency. The tar like mats, who ever makes them, are heavy for a reason, are stuck directly to bare steel panels and damp high frequencies. Adding mass lowers the reasonant frequency of the material. Your door when struck goes from tinny (hi freq) to a thud or thunk (low frequency). The volume of the total noise getting through the panel is reduced some what but not usually enough. You have lowered the frequency of the sound that gets through, but how do you reduce the magnitude of that noise? You then need to add a thick sound absorbing pad for lack of a better term, to attenuate the low frequencies that road noise, exhaust and such make. This is a second product you basically putUIKeyInputDownArrow under your rugs and on the firewall to do that part of the job. You will find these two components in any modern car. That and whole bunch of material engineering and isolation techniques that keep the outside noises away from the cabin in the first place. Something 50 year old cars lack for some reason.... I use the b-quiet product. b-quiet.com. They publish their attenuation specs and comparisons. Price is right too. No smell, good adhesion, good performance. Heat attenuation is whole 'nother ball of wax. Doing something reflective around the exhaust on the OUTSIDE is your best level 1 defence. The sound deadening products you're applying have a variety of R-Values and effectiveness.

Vintage air sells a nice laser cut generic bracket pair that makes a fabricated bracket as easy as possible, but it still requires welding and cutting a plate to fit your block and position the pulley correctly. The L series brackets on the 280's and ZX's is anothe option but will still require considerable "manipulation" Here is the bracket I made for the 510. This the VA catalog page with the bracket. http://www.vintageair.com/2017%20Catalog/2017%20Vintage%20Air%20Catalog%2071.pdf

I have good used fuse boxes, no corrosion or melting. Let me know @z240@shaw,ca if you still need one.

Although the nissan sender threads are something like M22x1.5, it is probably close enough to thread on. 18 TPI is a bit fine. As long as it goes on well enough to seal. I only checked the threads. Definitely 1.5 TPmm.

That's part number is 3341674

Thanks for the nod Jacky but I don't have any spare floats at the moment. Ztherapy has sourced/made brand new floats, they would be my hands down choice. Give Bruce a call and tell him your tail of whoa! Woah? Woe!

Looks like the stock electric that dealers put in to fight the fuel vaporization problem. If it's working, it has an internal filter that should be cleaned/replaced at the very least. It's age suggest it really should be replaced. The Nismo pump and the commonly available Faucet Gold Flo pumps ( http://www.facet-purolator.com/gold-flo.php ) are all the same external style, but would like to see a review of what is inside them and how/where they are made to understand is the Nismo price is justified. I run the Faucet 2.5-4 psi FEP60SV pumps in my Z and dime and like them noise wise, and the fact that they have an internal filter. Been reliable so far.

The spring usually breaks. I can post of picture of how its supposed to look if you want to try to source a generic spring. Shame to have to buy a complete latch assembly.

Simplify. Remove all ignition wiring to the coil. Disconnect the alternator. Run the engine with just the battery hooked up the coil + with a new wire. (Assuming you have points, you have to have that wire from coil - to the points too). Watch the voltage on the battery now. If its going crazy still, its the coil. If not, start adding things back until you ID the issue.

Are any of these what you need? Let me know by PM or to z240@shaw.ca

We need to know what year 240 you have. Early ones don't have the retractor reel, and can't fit a retractor wheel from a newer one (no pocket in the floor). I generally don't recommend using old belts. Look into upgrades from places like Seat Belt Planet.

Very nice work. Now come up with a circuit modification for the intermittent wiper amp circuit that would allow the user to adjust the int. wipe interval by using an external potentiometer and you'd have modern wipers. Jim

Last set I sold was gobbled up at $200. 6 months ago or so.

How about these? http://www.radiumauto.com/OEM-Style-SAE-Quick-Connect-Fittings-P409.aspx

Other than the connector that attaches to the back the headlight housing itself, no one that I'm aware of has sourced the various water proof 260/280 connector shells and pins. Search amazon or ebay for "headlight connector H4" and you'll come up with lots of options.

PM sent.

The parts fiche gives you a lovely blow up picture of all the components that hang the suspension and diff. Compare that to what you have and post a list of what you need. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension

yes you would have to turn the handle to get the gears to mesh. I have a couple of really good regulators for you if it goes there. Shouldnt, just have to get your gears to mesh.

The spring pressure is easy to overcome, it's easy to restart the gears meshing again. Now whether you can do in the door depends on your dexterity and patience. Go play, you'll figure it out. What year Z are we working on? The 77/78 regulators and window track systems are unique, and the advice will vary about getting the window out if you need to do that.

I have a set of the tall 280z ones if you don't find any closer to home. $100 shipped.

I have some real ones if you can't find a suitable generic replacement. I have the washers too. send me a note to z240@shaw.ca if you want to do that.

You should probably ask on the510realm.com and community.ratsun.net as well.