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VRJoe

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Everything posted by VRJoe

  1. Looks great, your work never ceases to amaze me. - Joe
  2. I took a piece of pipe (plumbing tail stock, the kind you use from the sink to the trap) that had an ID the was close to the OD of the trans output shaft. I then slid a dowel into the pipe (had to sand it a little) so that I could slide it in and out some. I slid the pipe onto the output shaft, moved the dowel out and could then see how it lined up with the differential input shaft. Remember that there MUST be some angle between the two. Do a search and you'll find a bunch of posts about driveshaft angle. - Joe
  3. Sounds like the ignition switch. Try taking it apart and cleaning it. I think this problem has cropped up before so you may want to try a search and see what turns up. - Joe
  4. It's best to remove the tape. I put a drop of light oil on the inside of the fitting and spread it around, that made things go together much easier. I used electrical tape and a cutoff tool, came out pretty clean and the oil seemed to help the edge from fraying as I slid it in. - Joe
  5. Aux, I do like your sense of humor, that was great. - Joe
  6. Now a days it would be "bad luck for the barometer and the HAZMAT crew that clears a 6 block area and begins a massive cleanup". - Joe
  7. You might want to replace them, or do the Maxi fuse upgrade. - Joe
  8. 5 years, WOW. Only 7 years younger than Pete's project. - Joe
  9. Did you check the fusible links. They're the wires in the small boxes on the passenger side fender. Check them with a VOM. Do a search and you'll find a wiring diagram for '77 280Z. It's a great diagram and will be lot's of help. Hope that helps, - Joe
  10. Glad the kids are OK. That's why my daughters first car was a '84 Volvo wagon, closest thing to a tank I could find (but that's another story). - Joe
  11. It does make me wonder about Sparco seats. I wonder how Sparco would react if you show them the pictures and explain the situation. Seems to me it went up a little too easily. Sparco should be very interested in getting that seat for examination. Might be a pearl mixed in with the dung. - Joe
  12. In the Feb. issue of Kit Car magazine, on page 24, Last Change Garage (he's building a Ferrari 250GTO) Joel Heinke talks about the OHV heads he got for his LS1. He got them from Pete Aardema of San Diego, CA (760-743-3240). Grab the mag and read the article, it should help you out. I had to suppress the urge to call myself so I'll be interested how you make out. - Joe
  13. I picked up an Energy Suspension mount at Pep Boys. Price was pretty close to Summit or Jegs. I don't remember the part number, but it's the mount for a T56, so it's easy to find. - Joe
  14. Check out carchemistry.com and look at the C.C. Inserts. I'm leaning toward using a set on the inserts in the 2.5" dual I'm setting up for the LT1. I'm also planning on using the MagnaFlow X-Pipe , the darn thing is like a box with pipes stuck in the ends. Should mellow the note some. - Joe
  15. I pulled the motors from a ZX a while ago. As I remember I removed the window, then pulled the regulator, then removed the screws that hold the motor and slid the motor out. There should be 3 (or 4) screws on the inner door panel that hold the motor in. There is no reason to cut the door. Did you check the manual ???? - Joe
  16. Take a look at www.carchemisry.com they have some inserts that look pretty interesting. I'm planning on using the flanged inserts in my 2.5 inch system. - Joe
  17. I think I can guess where he got his last set of tires for that trailer - Joe
  18. You need a broken tap remover. It has four fingers that slide into the low points of the tap and allow you to turn the tap back out. I've been able to got some out with a good pair of needle nose pliers. Others I've had to drill out. You'll need carbide tipped drills to drill out a broken tap. If it's not in too far and you can get to the back side you can drive it out from the back with a drift pin, it screws up the threads you tapped, but it gets it out. Been there, done that. - Joe
  19. The light is telling you the oil PRESSURE is getting low, not the oil level. Make sure your using the correct weight oil. I've seen this happen when too light an oil is used, like 5-30 instead of 10-30, the oil thins out at temperature and the pressure goes low at idle. Check the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge, low pressure is nothing to mess around with. I've also seen this happen when there's crud built up at the sending unit, so you might want to check that also. - Joe
  20. Check to make sure the cable isn't locked up. Watch the lever arm at the drum and have someone else pull on the handle. If the lever arm at the drum doesn't move your cables are shot. - Joe
  21. Hey, We're all family here on HybridZ. We'll check in on Christmas so you can spend time with this family Have a good Christmas. -Joe
  22. Hey, You can use the ribbon as a rip-cord. Faster opening makes it safer. :D - Joe
  23. Check the wires. Could be a broken wire, loose connection, dirty connector or bad ground. - Joe
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