Clifton

I haven't run V710, just V700's and RA1's, not quite the same I know but closer than a street tire. I run 3* camber up front with 40 psi cold just to keep the temps close to even . Rear, about 1.5-2* and 35 psi and the outsides are hot. I would think with stock camber you would need to run higher pressure, I know I would on my car. I would invest in a pyromoter. I do know if you run a soft tire that loads one part of the tire hard (lack of camber), you will know at the end of the day by looking at it.

That would be great. I have an extra one that leaks a little at the body. I don't even need it back. I can send it out today or tomarrow.

I have to have my opening time pretty low. I idle at 1.4 ms pw so my opening time is 1.0. I had a stumble on on shifts and from decel to part throttle. I bumped my tps threshhold up from 2.0 to 2.5 and it cleared it up. Z-ya, have you checked any Nippon Denso injectors for opening times? currious to know what I should have it at, not that I can raise it much and still adjust idle fuel.

Doesn't look like a 180* crank. Would sound nice at 8000 rpms if it was though.

That's not hard to accomplish with a small turbo.

I know azc has L28 flat tops for use with L24 rods. Don't know about the LD28 stroke though. http://arizonazcar.com/piston.html

It would need to be wot to open the flap fully. He can't do this in the garage holding it at 3500 as he can't get wot without load for more than 1 sec if that.

It would have to be WOT, under load. You can measure the voltage when you drive.

If your getting spark but the tach isn't working on MT then MS isn't picking up your edis signal, it will never start. You sure you have it coming in on the right pin (24)? Did you build it. Do you have it set to edis for ignition?

My 36-1 wheel is just press fit on my pulley, just like the the factory Escort pulley. No bolts or set screws. It seemed to work for 500,000 Escorts. I haven't had any problems. moerex, does your tach your on megatune? Coolant temp?

You could deal with zero toe but why? It is like taking the radio or a/c out for weight savings on a street car. Put just enough in so it will track straight. You don't want a wandering car that darts even more under hard braking on uneven surfaces. It won't be enjoyable 99.99% of the time. Adding a little caster won't screw up your toe. You can get a camber/caster guages and play with it. If you are adjusting camber with lca bushings, that will mess your toe setting up.

I wouldn't do zero toe on a street car. Your car will follow cracks, paint stripes and any other irregularity in the road for a minute increase in handleing, well maybe if it was a track only car you would notice. You would gain more with a little more caster or better tires.

If you haven't messed with it, don't. It should be fully opened around peak torque. Opening it sooner will just have it run rich up to peak torque but the same afr after. Opening it later will make it run lean up to peak torque but the same after. Do you have a wide band or were you going to guess?

For you power goal an E or B would be fine. A .48 is really small. It will hurt your hp. You will have an easier time making 350 with a larger turbine wheel though.

Once you have driven a Z with a decent turbo at decent boost you will forget about itb's and the n/a sound. I would do option 2 but with turbo and double the hp. I would turbo an L28 before the 5m. They are ok but no better than an L28. You sure it's a 5mgtte? I don't belive Toyota ever turboed the 5m.

It worked pretty good. There isn't enough room to use one on the rear if you do it on the car though.

Do you have a 240z fuel tank and are running efi? If so that's your fuel slosh problem. Yes you can use a turbo fuel pump on an n/a motor as long as it is efi. If you are going turbo and need a bigger pump, get an external Walbro. Much cheaper than the mSA pump and will have enough volume for 500+rwhp.

There are deffinatly small enough turbos out there. There were a few factory turboed bikes or Chevy Sprints had a 1000cc turbo engine. Might work if your power band is high enough.

There is a check valve on the pump outlet. On Walbros you can see it in the end. It should hold pressure in the line for atleast a little while when it's off. Is your 70m filter before or after the pump?

When you wired the pump to battery did you do the negative side too or just postive? When your pressure drops below the set pressure on the fpr there shouldn't be any fuel coming out of the return if it is trying to keep it up to the set pressure. If you pinch the retun line off does the pressure stay low?

A stock P90 long block with cast pistons is good for an easy 400 rwhp if you have the turbo, boost and fuel for it.

I'm running the knocksense on mine. Only thing I don't like about it is I had to add a pot to get it to where I could have enough adjustment. It is pretty sensitve to adjustment too. It is either on of off. I would prefer this one. Looks like it picks up light deto. http://www.linkecu.com/products/AncillaryDevices/KnockLink

What is your total timing?

Do you have a volt meter? Can you check voltage at the pump?

I ran an MBC I made on my Z31, I also used it on my 7M before that. Worked fine. I did have to create a small leak between the outlet of the mbc and the wastegate. I used an aquarium bleeder, could poke a small hole in the vacuum line too. Without it, it would start out fine and the boost would drop. If you are trying to run 11 psi on a 4 psi wg (in my case).The 11 psi coming out of the mbc will hang the wg open to long if the pressure is trapped in the line.