Clifton

I wasn't comenting about the spelling, didn't even see that. Just the double power isn't better. Even in the wet I still wouldn't wish for less.

Turbo the LT1 and have double the power of the L28ET.

Max power is had around 12.2:1. Most people (500-900hp Supras) shoot for mid-high 11's to be safe. If you are running leaner than low 12's say 13:1 and do a long highway pull you would be asking for trouble. It's alot of extra heat on the pistons, they tend to melt. Running richer than mid 11's will just lower the power. You would be better of running 12:1 and lowering the boost to acheive the same power. Guys running in the 10's are just throwing away free power.

I had bought the Z31 hubs and rotors but went with the Azzcar 5 lug. I redrilled my rears without welding anything extra on. I used a rotor hat to transfer the holes. They are hubcentric so it works good. I still have the front hubs and rotors if anyone is looking for some. I also have some drums I drilled for 5 lug that I can include. Caliper are gone though. http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules.php?op=modload&name=zClassifieds&file=detail&cat=59&de=754 With the z31 hub a 8.5" wheel with 22mm offset will fit with stock springs perches. Don't know what you would need for wider. If using the stock drums a 9" with 25 mm offset will work with an 8" coil over and clear the fender.

Air flow and pressure do more for spool than heat but the idea of hanging one 15 feet from the motor is crazy. It looks like the turbo is lower than the top of the oil pan. Doesn't say anything about a pump to get the oil back up. They would like you to believe that 15 feet of tubing will cool 300*+ of compressed air but it won't or we could just run an extra 10' of tubing istead of intercoolers and have zero pressure drop. Here's some other so called benifits with the first one being a bold lie. Increased gas mileage. Unlike a belt driven supercharger, the turbo utilizes "wasted" energy leaving your tailpipe. Most of our customers get 2-4 mpg increase in gas mileage. Cooler oil to the turbo. Cool oil is better for both the turbo and engine. That's what I need, oil thta's not up to proper operating temps. Approximately 500F lower turbo temperatures. Eliminates the need for a turbo-timer, which allows the engine to run after the car is shut off in order to cool down the turbo and prevent oil and bearing damage. Denser exhaust gasses drive the turbo turbine wheel more efficiently. Built-in intercooling. Intake piping provides ~50% intercooler efficiency. There is no need for the expense, pressure drop, and installation problems associated with a front mounted intercooler. Turbo is closer to the tail pipe outlet. Provides a better pressure differential across the turbine wheel which promotes better flow across turbine. Better weight transfer. Increases traction because the bulk of system is mounted in rear of vehicle rather than up front. Less noise in the passenger compartment. Quieter wastegates, especially if vented to atmosphere. Better engine cooling capacity.

Why a 15"? A 275-50-17 will look like a truck tire. There is hardley anything available in that size. A 275-40-17 will actually be shorter and give you more room on the strut side. An 18" would be even better and 35 series tires are available keeping the same over all diameter. I did get a 275 to fit but I don't know if you can do a 15 with out rubbing. Here's what I did http://www.geocities.com/clifton_ragland/Tires.html

The only half way decent looking 17X8 I saw on there was $455, 17X9.5 was $475 each. Even at $300 each it's still kinda expensive compared to what's available in a 5 lug cast wheels. When you buy big brakes and have to get new tires for the new wheels it gets expensive.

T4 E wheels are 6 blade, atleast every one I have seen. I know for sure 60-1's have 7 blades. I think yours might be a 60-1.

I haven't seen that type before. Mine is the T-bolt clamp style. I do know they are kinda expensive.

Were you thirsty? Turbonetics welds V bands to there housings. I would just take it of first. I've seen other turbos with wastegates coming off the housing with a welded on flange. Never done it my self though.

a/f ratios have little to do with detonation. I can run 11:1 and still knock if timing and/or boost is too high. I'd get that LM1, best tool I bought this year. I would also re-gap. No more than .030"

240SX wheels have a front wheel drive offset. They won't work without thick spacers. 4 lug wheels that will fit a Z are very limited. If you are planning on a lot of power like you state you might want to find wheels first, unless you can live with a 17X7" with a 225mm tire. I run the AZ Z Car 5 lug brakes on my street car (overkill) so I could go wide on the wheels with out spending alot of money on them. I run the "OLD" AZ Z Car 11.75" fronts and non vented rear rotor on my track only car and don't have fade issues at all and I don't run ducts. IMO the 12.2" is plenty for a light Z. I know he has done larger for people that want bigger but all it gets you is bling and extra weight. Unless you have over 500rwhp and alot of tire, or maybe running some mulitiple hour enduro, I don't see you needing more. For coil overs. I run Az Z Car, but if it's threaded and you can adjust ride height either would work.

http://www.arizonazcar.com/inject.html

Make sure you get aluminized steel. I know Summit has it, Jegs didn't in the past.

Nicely put.

Buying new parts individualy is expensive and you would still have the power limiting small turbine wheel. If you went that route you may as well get a rebuild kit for around $75 too. IMO you would be better off getting a new T3/4 with atleast a stg3 wheel and sell yours to help cover the costs.

If it's a street driven car you won't be happy with even a little toe out. I run 1/16"-1/8" total toe out on my track car. Road coarses are smooth and flat for the most part but streets have seams and cracks all over, atleast out here. Your car will follow them and wander, it'll keep you busy. I've driven my track car on the street to check stuff and it darts all over comparred to my daily driver.

Checker has them for $38.

The 87-89 turbos use a slip on rotor and don't have holes on the back side to bolt a rotor to. They are round and look different.

Although I did it a looooong time ago. It's a bad idea. They are more of a valve, no duty cycle. If say it comes on at 3500 rpm at 12 psi it may be enough but you will need twice the fuel at 7000 rpm so it will get leaner as the rpms go up. There is no way to maintain the same a/f ratio as RPMs increase using this setup. I ran 2 staged at different psi levels. It was rich at low rpm and ok at righ rpm but the stock T3 reaches full boost at such a low rpm it would bog. I hated it and scrapped it soon after hooking it up. I would look into a used HKS AIC. The knob type ones are dirt cheap on Ebay. They have RPM onset and gain and Boost onset and gain they also display duty cycle. Get a couple of 450cc blue top turbo Mitsu injectors.

They will, just the 87-89 Z31 turbos won't.

P90 pistons have a much thicker top ring land compared to N/A dished pistons. Also have a ductile top ring. Don't know about the N/A though.

Z31, 300ZX turbo hubs won't work. Atleast the 87-89. Modern Motorsports has a picture of the hub needed.