Clifton

Speeder.... Keizer wheels have alot of room for a 15" wheel. I have them with the 11.2" Wilwoods and they clear no problem, don't know of any street wheels that will.

Ya it's off the stock Z rubber mount. I ran 109 with a dying FP (a/f was 13.8:1) with the stock CT-26 at 10 psi. Upgraded CT-26/60-1- was 114 at 17 psi. With the TO4S I did a warm up at 16 psi and ran 117, it was kinda hot, around 100*. I went to turn up the MBC and the too short of spring got caught in the out port, didn't know why the boost dropped till I got home. I was planing on a 22 psi run. Oh well. I would think it would be easier to trim your mount or make a new one and use a stock compressor.

This is how I did the driver side mount by the on compressor bracket.

Can't, it's been at a friends shop for the last 5 months. Should be back soon. Basically I made a frame for the front panel and made the top removable for easy access to the backside.

I feel your pain. I went with a larger turbo and had 60' times like yours. I went from 2.0 with a small turbo to 2.4's with a larger one. I'm even think about going bigger still. I will go back out when it cools down a little here and try to get the launch right.

I run the D's on my track car. I originally put them in when it was a street car with 200lbs springs. They were kidney busting stiff, even on the softest setting. The did soften up some over time though. I would set them on the softest setting before putting them in. If you decide to sell them let me know. I am in need of some rears on my DD. I'm tired on bouncing.

I used a factory in tank sump and fuel pump from a Toyota Supra. This is on a 240 tank. I have no issues even when below the line just above the "E".

I would get the 60-1, and at least the stage 3 .63. An O trim with a .70 isn't that bad on the street either, haven't tried a P trim yet. It depends on what psi you plan on running and if you don't mind the trade off of a little more lag for more power. If you go full T4 you will need to weld on a T4 flange and use an external wategate.

I run a regular V trim on my L28. They flow 51lbs/min. I got a little over 400 rwhp at 22 psi out of it. 368 at 15 psi. The "Supers" have a slightly larger exducer, supposed to aid in quicker boost. If you are still running the small standard turbine wheel thats probably not an issue. Pull the housing off and measure it, only way to know for sure.

I've run an L26 flat top with N42 head, L28 with N42, and L28 with P90, all turbo'd. What little I lost in off boost torque didn't matter with the P90 as I could make more on boost power . You could use a 1mm MHG HG, stock is 1.2/ .050" and take just enough off to clean the head and get it straight. I wouldn't run anything but the factory dished turbo pistons or forged, All N/A pistons are weaker. 14 psi / 8.0:1 will make less HP than 17 psi / 7.4:1 but both have the same compression ration under boost. If you cut the head and don't use shims it retards the timing, just gives a little more top end. I have never shimmed the cam towers and have cut .120" off of an E88 on an N/A motor. Here's a couple of links http://not2fast.wryday.com/turbo/compression/compression.shtml http://www.turbofast.com.au/javacalc.html

Haven't used it but you just need to know your airflow needs in lbs/min and the pressure ratio. Compressor maps are avaliable for any Garret turbo.

Looks nice. Is there anything in the mount that will hold it together if or when the poly seperates? I welded 2 tabs to the stock upper peice and ran a bolt through them that runs underneath the bottom of the mount. It only allows 1/8" of up travel on the front of the diff before the bolt hits the botom. You can hear the noise being transmitted through the bolt/crossmember. It sounds like a soilid mount under accel only though. Normal driving is like a stock mount.

At your 20 psi a large T3/4 or full T4 would be easily making 375-425 rwhp not 260 rwhp.

Out of the V or H, I would get the H. I would recommend a 60-1 stage 5 though. But as Pyro said it is a give and take. I make 15 psi at around 4k and 19 psi soon after but it also makes more than a smaller turbo could make. I can deal with some lag to have the power I have . Don't know were to get one cheap, maybe Pyro will post up.

Unless you are going to a full T4, I too would have to wonder why you would want to use an external wastegate. internals are cheap and easy to make adjustable and are dead accurate even at 20 psi. Externals tend to spike with the MBC's or you can use an expensive electric controller. I originaly pulled my wastegate exit off the number 6 port. Might not have been Corky approved but it worked fine. I ended up moving the motor back 2" and had to pull it from the bottom in the center of the manifold. To do again I would just run the wastegate under the turbo, but wanted easy access even though I have never needed to get to it. On my 7M I pulled it right behind the T4 flange I welded on and ran it below the turbo. 7M cast manifold Looking up from underneath the car.

What's the offsets?

Same thoughts here.

Wow, I just clicked on one and it tells everything about them . I think a standard turbine wheel is a little small. Spools real fast but also chokes it at higher hp levels. I would do atleast a stage 3. To use the Ford style you need the wastgate assembly and then the flange to attach the exhaust to. People have them on ebay all the time. If you did use a stardard wheel you could just use your turbine housing though. You could even have it machined to fit a stage 3 or 5. Someone here said it was $100, might be easier. You can get 250 rwhp out of a stock turbo pushing it to the end of its life or at the same boost you could be making 300 with a turbo that is closer to the peak of its effeciency. The higher the eff. the cooler the air will be and the less rpm's it will take to flow the same amount of air.

The S trim doesn't flow much more than the stock T3 60 trim. A T4B V or H trim will flow more than any E, not by much but they will. E's are a a little more effeicent but in a narrower area. If they offer a 57 or 60 in the E it's still way better than an S trim. If you can get an actual Garret T3/4 with a T4E 57 or 60 trim and a stage 3 or 5 on the turbine it sounds ok. If its a standard turbine I wouldn't do it. Also the turbine housing will have the Ford/Saab style outlet. Not a big deal though. There were some T3/4's on Ebay with 57 E trims. Weren't Garret but copies, kinda cheap.

If it is a V or H trim yes. If it's an S trim no. I would call and ask, and also ask what trims are available in the T4E's. Find out if it's a standard, stage 3 or 5 turbine wheel.

T series/ big shaft turbos go for that. If this is a 70% drag car and you are talking 25 psi then I assume you are not running pump gas. If that's the case I would go larger than a 61. Alot of 2JZ guys run up to 74mm compressors on the street and make silly power at 25-30 psi on C16. I'm running a T58 with O trim /.70 a/r on the 7m, not much larger than the L28 but doesn't rev as high. You have another 500-1000 usable rpm's so lag wouldn't be as much of an issue as you can rev a little more. A 63-67 mm compressor will be my next turbo, P trim .68/.70 a/r, when I find a deal on a used one. On my L28 I run a T4 with O trim an .69 a/r. That spools just fine too but to do again I would try a P trim.

I got a new windshield and gasket installed for under $200. I watched they guy do it and would still rather pay next time.

May as well call your 7.99, 8:1. I wouldn't run 7:1 unless you go full T4, larger injecters and plan on running around 25 psi, which you could on pump gas. I would also only run the factory turbo pistons or forged, they are stronger than the n/a dished and flat tops. It sounds like you plan on keeping the stock T3. If so that will be your power limiter.

370's are still too small. If you put a decent turbo on there and run 18 psi you will be beyond what they can support. I would run 450's minimum. preferably 550s. You could keep your stock 260cc's and run 2 550cc + injectors with an AIC and that would come out out about 450cc per cylinder. That's what I origainally ran and got 368rwhp @ 15 psi. Plus you have total control over your fuel under boost. If you are going to go bigger atleast go large enough so you don't have to upgrade again when you crank the psi up a little more. I'm running 6 440's and 2 450's(AIC) on my 7MGTE. With the right turbo you will need the extra fuel.

Move them over 1/2". You won't notice it sitting in them. It would be easier than the surgery you are planning.