zcarnut

Here's a write up I did for our club newsletter a few years ago.

And on the 1979-1985 810's and Maxima's......

6/79-12/82 720 4x4 Nissan Truck

It's 22mm with a 1.50mm thread. The S30/S130 stub axle thread has a diameter of 20mm. 24mm x 1.5mm is also a common size for spindle nuts: http://www.rockfordcv.com/PDF%20Downloads/Spindle_Nuts.PDF

Mark, I recall from measurement that the Z31 lock nut is slightly larger in diameter (both internal and external). Just make sure it will fit in whatever companion flange you are going to use.

The Nissan OEM nut for the turbo ZX is a locking type and does not need/use peening. It is not a "nylock" nut. It has it's threads rolled so that there is a slight interference (like a "jam nut") between the male and female threads. This interference provides enough friction so the nut will not loosen.

I agree that using Megasquirt to control the air valve is a better approach. The resistance of the BMW valve is about 10 ohms, so make sure that the PWM amp in the Megasquirt can handle 1.5 amps.

The Bosch idle speed controller and the idle air control valve were used on the 1982-1987 5 series and 3 Series BMW’s (318, 325 and 528). The controller unit (module) is a small green plastic box (about 2" x 3" x 1" thick) that is located in the upper portion of the glove box area. Be sure to cut off the controller’s electrical connector from the wiring harness. This will make interfacing with the controller easier. The air control valve is silver and can be found in the engine compartment near the shock tower. Again, try to get the harness connector.

I’ve used the Bosch IAC valve and controller module I got off an early 1980’s BMW. What’s nice about is that it is a “stand alone†system. All the controller does is monitor the engine rpm at idle via the hot side of the ignition coil and uses a PWM amp in the controller module to regulate the air flow through the valve. You can even use a temperature sensor and have a “fast idle†when the engine is cold. I put this on a Z car that I had installed the SDS fuel injection management system on, which completely ignores the idle speed function.

You're very welcome! Apparently Nissan made a few different versions of this intake. Here’s two more:

Yes, some did. Note: These six cylinder engines were called a L20A to distinguish them from the L20B (four cylinder) engine.

Another obscure place to buy blasting media is a headstone/monument company. When I lived in Knoxville they had the cheapest price around for sand. That’s what they use to engrave the headstone inscriptions.

I recall an article in Hot Rod Magazine about installing a sight glass tube on the side of the oil pan to visually check the oil level. The hollow glass tube was about ¼ inch diameter, a couple inches long, and mounted vertically. You could probably construct something similar using clear tubing and two fittings.

The 1981-84 Maxima Diesel had a vacuum pump that ran off the alternator. It bolted to the back of the alternator and the pulley shaft was extended all the way through the alternator housing. This alternator/vacuum pump will bolt up the L-series engine, but requires an oil feed line and a return line to the sump.

Get the late 280Z or 280ZX fast idle valve. It’s unobtrusive and screws into any of the available 10mm threaded holes in the intake manifold. It’s controlled by a vacuum solenoid valve which you will need to use as well. The Z31 uses it’s IAC to kick up the idle speed when the AC is on.

Nice pics Howler, but the issue here in this thread is the oil pickup tube being in the wrong location. It’s got nothing to do with any oil return line.

The change occurred with the introduction of the 1974 260Z model (either the coupe or the 2+2).

http://kmhafer.datsun510.com/wheelFAQ.htm

That’s because it not supposed to be a problem… Both the Z and ZX master cylinders will mate to the 10mm brake line fittings. The “adapter†(as you put it) is part of the master cylinder. Do not unscrew it from the master cylinder.

Another thread about these wheels: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107965

Provided your Z is a two-seater, you can use either a 1975-78 280Z one or the larger 1979-81 280ZX brake booster. You can even use the later (1982-3) ZX booster provided you also swap out your master cylinder. The ZX boosters have to be installed upside down in your 260Z, but the will still function: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112593

I attended SEMA back in 2006 and it was GREAT! Way too much stuff to see in only three days. There were even two engine importers there with pallets of RB engines. And of course there were the babes.....

There are no sychros on the reverse gear. More than likely the clutch is not being completely disengaged. Check the operation of the clutch master and slave cylinder before dropping the tranny. Early Z’s (1970-72) have an adjustable threaded slave cylinder pushrod. Later Z’s used an auto adjusting slave cylinder.

This topic has been mentioned before. I will paraphrase my past responses: The 1985-6 Z31 rear calipers are designed to be used with a larger diameter rotor than the more popular late 280ZX rear rotor swap. Although the Z31 rear calipers have the same bolt spacing as the late 280ZX and 240SX calipers (and will bolt up to the exiguous Maxima caliper bracket), the pads will not be in the correct location regardless of whether the 280ZX rotor or the Z31 rotor is used. Furthermore the 1987 and up Z31 rear caliper has a wider rotor slot opening because of the vented rotor. The other problem with trying to use the Z31 rear calipers on an early Z car is the parking brake operation. On a Z31 the direction of pull of the parking brake lever on the caliper is to the front of the car. When the right and left side calipers are reversed (i.e., left caliper is used on the right side and vice versa) so they can be used on a 1970-78 Z car, the direction of pull of the parking brake lever on the caliper is now to the rear of the car. This is difficult to make operational. The parking brake cables have to be custom made and routed so they pass under the fuel tank and curve back to the caliper avoiding the strut tubes and the exhaust pipes. I spent some time trying to make this work but I eventually gave up.

Or an electric fart pipe.