zcarnut

I’ve looked into using the Volvo calipers on the S30 but the “dual feed†brake line requirement makes it more of a hassle than the Toyota calipers. But the Datsun Roadster guys are using them: http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.php?n=TechSection.VolvoCalipers Here in the USA, the Toyota calipers are just more common in the junk yards as well.

I've used a Lisle one for many years and many engines: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-1-8-to-5-Ring-Compressor_W0QQitemZ160248228045QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item160248228045&

The cam tower bolt torque spec is not in the FSM. The text “How to Modify Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine†by Frank Honsowetz has 10 to 13 ft-lbs, so z-ya's memory is pretty good...

I had a 240Z that developed a leak in the rubber filler-to-tank tube. I was able to patch it with some gas tank putty/epoxy but I had to drop the tank to get to it. Once you remove the gas tank you can do some maintenance on it, as dirt can build up on top of the tank which retains moisture and promotes rusting.

Agreed! Basically, no suspension item will interchange between the 810 and the Maxima even though they both utilize rear semi-trailing arms in the rear and struts in the front. Nissan improved (updated) the handling of the Maxima by modifying the 810's rear camber gain curve, using different dampeners (shock absorbers) all the way around, increasing the tracking width, and changing the front camber and castor angles with different struts. Other changes include adding rack and pinion power-assisted steering, rear disc brakes and front vented discs, albeit they were a smaller diameter than the 810 solid rotor.

No, it will not work. The Maxima front suspension crossmember is different, e.g., the width of the Maxima crossmember is different and mounting bolt spacing is not the same.

I'm a little confused here(?). I thought that the Z31 has its steering rack behind the front axle.

RAYBESTOS Part # FRC3465 and: RAYBESTOS Part # FRC3466

No. The 810 requires an engine with a front oil sump. The L28 has a rear sump. So, you must convert it to a front sump. If you want to use the L28 turbo engine then you must likewise convert it to a front sump and use the ZXT steering.

Stephen (Yardbird) is correct. The turbo housing will interfere with the 810’s re-circulating steering box. That is exactly why Nissan had to change over the 280ZX turbo to a rack-and-pinion steering set-up. The 810 and the NA 280ZX have the same front crossmember and steering system. However, installing the L28 turbo engine into an 810 has been done! The owner had to change over to the 280ZX rack-and-pinion. After seeing this, I was encouraged to proceed with the steering system change in my 810.

Check out this: http://www.dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_tcrod.html

Be careful Joe! That appears to be one of the coated L24E oil pans. Nissan applied a thick coat of paint to the inside surface to reduce the engine noise transmission through the pan. The late production diesel Maxima's had the same treatment. According to a 1980's Nissan tech I talked to, the paint can come off in a layer and plug up the oil sump. I recommend removing it before you use the pan.

I will do a write up once I get it working. I have actually modified two 810 crossmembers, one with the manual 280ZX rack and another with the power-assisted rack (in case I need the assist). Well, I do not think that going from re-circulating ball to a rack will completely eliminate all the clearance issues you could have with header. True, the large steering box right next to the exhaust manifold is a big problem, but with a rack you need a shaft from the end of the steering column to the rack. That shaft looks like it could interfere with one or more of the primary tubes of a typical aftermarket L-series exhaust header. I think the rack will work with the stock L24E exhaust manifold and headpipe. My primary purpose of using a rack is to improve steering response. Norm has the dashpad for sale: http://www.oem-surplus.com/nwp/picpages/68210-U8702.html It has studs protruding from the bottom to attach it to your instrument panel. Like Stephen said, it’s burgundy (dark red) in color. BTW, Norm is selling NOS 810 ac compressors at a great price. I got mine for $75 plus shipping.

Hello Stephen; I considered getting the burgundy dash from Norm but I would then have to re-paint it black (to match my interior). The dash presently in my 810 came from a junker and was brown until I painted with SEM black. However, the paint has come off in a couple of places where a front passenger has inadvertently rubbed against it. A re-covered dash would not have this problem. Unfortunately the overall appearance of my 810 is such that minor blemishes are readily noticed (no bragging intended). I don’t know why the aftermarket “dash cap†suppliers never bothered with a cover for the 810’s. Nissan used the same dashpad on all the 810’s, regardless of body style. You can, however, get a dashcap for a 1979 Datsun truck as well as one for a 1981-85 Maxima.

Hello guys, I am getting ready to pull out my engine on the 810 so I can proceed with the rack-and-pinion/steering column swap project. This will also give me an opportunity to paint and detail the engine compartment. But first I’ll think I will drive the 810 over to the Walter Mitty Race at Road Atlanta on May 3. I had to change my ignition switch out (it was intermittent) and I just sent my spare dashboard to Just Dashes for recovering. I noticed a crack starting on the one that is presently in the car. I actually met someone with a 1979 two door that had round headlights. The owner preferred the appearance of the round lights and just swapped them out (along with the earlier grill).

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/linkage.htm

Because the fuel is pressurized, cars with fuel injection will not vapor lock. Pressurizing a fluid results in having its boiling point being raised. However, vapor lock can occur in fuel injected vehicles that are not running. Normally (because of the check valve between the fuel pump and the fuel rail) there is sufficient pressure remaining in the system (residual pressure) after engine shut down. However, the residual pressure can drop due to leaky injectors or a leaky check valve. Low residual fuel pressure can cause hard starting and vapor lock during hot weather especially at higher altitudes.

The auxiliary cooling fan was intended to cool the injectors to prevent the buildup of deposits on the injectors. When the engine is shut off the injectors undergo "heat soak". Fuel in the injector nozzles evaporates, leaving residues behind. Heat bakes these residues (coking) into hard varnish deposits which over time, build up and clog the injectors. However, that was mainly a problem with the gasoline being used back in the 1980’s. Nowadays fuel suppliers add fuel injector cleaning detergents (additives) to their fuels to help reduce the buildup of injector deposits. In 1995 the EPA mandated legislation requiring such additives as clogged injectors can affect emissions. As a result such cooling fans disappeared from engine compartments. So, you may remove your injector cooling fan and associated components from your 280ZX without concern.

Make sure you have some type of thermal insulator between the carb and the intake manifold. You can use the plastic anti-vibration kits for this. Also, a sheet metal heat shield mounted under the carb bodies is very effective to reflect the radiation from the exhaust manifold/header.

...as does Paeco... http://www.paeco.com/Stroker%20Kits.htm

I have re-built about 15 L-series over the last 30 years and I have had better results using aftermarket rings with a moly (short for molybdenum) coating. Sealed Power Moly rings are my preference (they are even cheaper than the Nissan rings), but there are other quality brands out there. The Nissan cast stock rings have a chrome coated compression (top) ring and unless the re-honing is done correctly they can take 10K miles to seal. Piston ring technology has improved substantially over the last 15 years. Any stock Nissan ring has probably been sitting a on a shelf for longer than that. Do a Goggle on the benefits of moly coatings (and also steel vs. cast rings). Lots of good info out there.

The master cylinder mounting is different. If you want to use the ’82-’83 booster then you have to use the ’82-83 master cylinder.

Locate your local automotive trim shop and see if they carry Auveco products. Armand is correct about the redrilling. Most aftermarket rivets are made for a .25 inch diameter hole. The existing holes are 5mm (about .20 inches). http://www.auveco.com

There's more involved than just changing the oil pan. The oil pick-up tube is in the wrong location as well. Major work to use, and then you will have a smaller engine with less horsepower. There’s very little parts interchange between the Maxima and a 280ZX. Completely different bodies, interiors, suspensions, braking and electrical systems. The tranny can be used without any issues. People pay good money for the Maxima (N47) head. The diff will be an R-180 with a 3.70 ratio. Yes, you can use the Maxima diff and the CV axles in your ZX, but you probably already have the larger R-200 differential. The Maxima CV axles will only fit into an R-180. Only to another Maxima owner…

A more direct link is: http://www.v-performance.com/recent.html#mikuni This is not a kit designed for the Z cars. The carb to manifold adapters in the kit may not even work with the Z car intake manifold. The spacing between the carbs may also be different, so the linkage bar in the kit may not work. Too many unknowns and expensive to correct. And you would still have to convert the Z car accelerator pedal to operate a cable. Also, the 240Z SU carbs had a throat diameter of 46mm and these particular motorcycle carbs are 45mm. However, Mikuni does make a 48mm HSR carb. The 50mm SU carbs (used on the Jaguars) would be an easier upgrade to make, IMO.