jeffer949

A block of wood that is 1 inch on bottom and 2 inches on top and i think 1 inch thick works just the same you just hammer it into place before you take the cam sprocket off. There is specs for it in the service manual to make one.

Im going to have to say that is FOD (foreign object damage). The marks are to square edged to be detonation. Detonation is pretty much always domed in shape. Also the fact that you had stuff in the exhaust points to something being in the cylinders. Had you had intercooler piping welded up and some slag could of broken off and gotten into the cylinders? Or are you running an open intake on the turbo that you could of sucked something in?? Just my experience.

Does any body know if it matters how you phase the 2 tripod joints. I rebuilt a set of mine and im having a bad vibration. I also added clutches to my clsd at the same time. The vibration is so bad on the passanger side that it worked the bolts out on my axle luckily i was only going around a corner at a crawl when it finally let go. Well any help would be great thanks

Well its been a long time since I have posted on here. Getting back into racing motocross and getting engaged has kept me busy and away from doing anything on my Z. It has been back to daily driver status after a winter off. It was doing a few resets when I first got it back on the road. But I did a very simple mod that since I did it has alleviated all my resetting issues. All I did was shorten the nuts that hold the relay cable to the case. If you look at the case you will notice that the DB37 is behind the case and there is a hole cut out for it and for the matching db37 to mate fully. But the studs that you bolt the relay cable to are on top of the case and keep the relay cable from fully seating onto the other db37. So i just ground off the thickness of the cases on the studs and since i did that I havent had a single reset. So Im not going to say that its fixed but its been a solid 3-4 months of no resets and it has been running pretty well as daily driver status. I am having issues while under boost but i just keep it off of boost for now till i can get it figured out. Well i hope that makes sense and helps people.

pm me i have one if your interested dp too

Yep sounds just like my r200 with the 6 clutch mode and I also shimmed mine for around 70-75 ft/lbs. I added one tube of additive maybe ill add another

Maybe the clutch is to big and is hitting the bellhousing?

I dont have either. My old one had a sound deadening pad glued on the back of the carpet. But just carpet would be good.

Just looking for a decent hatch carpet pad thing. Mine got destroyed and its VERY noisy with out it. Let me know what you have. thanks

Bondo

I just did a quick search and found that they are indeed different and you will need the zxt stub axles. I know it can be daunting but it took me 3 min to find that info searching even using Google which brought be back to hybridz.

Ive done a bit of business with them over the years. They do an amazing job. Once my megasquirt messed up while i was on a road trip to fl and I ordered the parts online to fix it but it was after the cut off for that days shipping and they boxed the parts i needed up and took them to the post office for me so i could get them in a timely manner. Thanks a million guys!!

Where did you get that it rubs?? my 255's up front don't rub at all.

Hey Gabe wheels look good. When you go to put on your flairs and are using the riv-nuts here is a good DIY riv-nut tool I found this week when i was replacing some on a motorcycle sub-frame. I didnt have a tool to crimp them properly when i did my zg's and i tried to weld them in place and well I suck at welding and they didnt turn out all that great. I wish I would of had the correct tool or the tool I made this week. It works so much nicer. I suggest using a thicker piece of scrap metal than he did but you get the idea. I used a nice 1"x4"x1/4" piece of steel. Make sure you get the hole the right size. Oh yeah you can get 6mm riv-nuts if you want to keep them metric which i like doing on my car and hate that i have 1/4 20 bolts on mine. Check out ebay for them. They seemed to have the best prices riv nut tool

I have one including the crank adapter thing. PM me

Im sorry to hear about your loss. If i was local i would help you with the sale of all his parts. I feel that it would be a great service if someone local would come help you sort out all the parts and help you get prices on them so you get a fair price. If no one will step up and would like some help pricing things pm me and i would be more than happy to help.

I have the piece you need. Your talking about the part that will bolt on to the dp right? pm me and make me an offer.

Thanks for your service and Ill be praying for you.

Nice at like 1.43???

I tore apart my turbo a few months ago as i thought it was leaking oil a bit to throw in a rebuild kit. It was actually in really good shape. No cooked seals or anything. And i wasnt nice to the turbo at all. No turbo timer or anything and i thought i had come in boosting and turned the car off quickly with out letting it idle. I must of been wrong ...

Not trying to take sides but we all make mistakes. I say get through the situation and see how they handle it. If they make it right. Im sure it gets confusing dealing with tons of people with orders going all over the place. I get flustered when i have 3 things i need to get shipped out. Just saying i wouldn't go around bashing then untill everything is taken care of. If you have already bashed them all over the internet and they find out what reason do they have to make things right? The damage to their reputation is already done.

I have a feeling that your reaction disk has popped out. It sounds just like what happend when mine did it. Let us know

I have one from a 82 280zx turbo automatic car. not sure if its the right one but if it is let me know and ill let it go for 20 shipped in the lower 48

What jon said was correct and if you look at the arizona z car coil overs either they have 2 separate sleeves for the 280 and the 240 and i think you mount them in different places on the rear strut tubes because of the difference in mounting locations with the 280z. I think you mount the coil over tubes higher on the strut tube before welding as to make up for the length of the top mount.