ryan95i4

Those speedhut gauges with the integrated indicators are pretty trick. I like the old school look of my autometers, but Ive caught myself driving with a blinker on a couple times, lol.

Piping back from the powdercoaters, everything is now in.

R_ick, you didnt pick this car up in Gainesville, FL did you? I know of one for sale, same color, same interior, 40K original miles, zero rust, all original local here... judging by the second post with all the bondo, may not be the same car afterall

Car is gorgeous

Sorry for the confusion, I was referring to the first intercooler (CX Racing) i posted about, with the inlet/outlet facing back towards the car rather than to the sides. The distance between those inlets was 28.25", very close to the 28.5" distance between the radiator support openings. The treadstone one should be fine w/ 90* couplers like you said, its nearly the same width as the one I ended up going with instead of the CX unit.

Took the car to work the other day on a foggy morning, made for a cool pic, esp for a cell phone pic

I did just that and the distance between the inlet and outlet was 28.25" apart, so very close, and may be an option to consider for others. I ended up going with a different fmic though, 12x20x3 core (27" total width) with the traditional endtanks like the one you posted and I'm just using 90* couplers to bring the openings through the radiator support openings like a lot of people do.

I have a set of brand new in the box 45 webers and filters. These were bought for another project that got scraped. Full album here: https://picasaweb.google.com/102233239296109086503/TripleWebers PM me if anyone is interested.

Here is the part that attaches to the car itself,I had made a thread in the WTB section looking for it with a pic: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/106746-wtb-240z-rear-hatch-strut-bracket/page__p__998756__fromsearch__1#entry998756

In for at least a short sleeved T

Liked, good luck

2 90*'s, 1 45*, 1 straight section then everything cut/welded to fit. Hot side is two pieces and used a 90* plus some straight pieces on each piece and trimmed where needed. Considered making it one piece but figured having it two piece would make R&R quick and easy. Cold side is just the 45* trimmed to fit w/ the BOV flange welded on. For couplers, 2 90* couplers off the intercooler, 1 90* reducer off the turbo, 1 45* reducer off the throttle body, 1 straight coupler between the hot side pipes.

Any of you Z guys on instagram? Just started using it, but found a couple names and cars I recognized from here. Im Ryan95i4 on there as well, looking for some other Datsun folks to follow

This looks identical to the McMaster-Carr weatherstripping, but looks like you got a better price.

I literally have a set of brand new, in the box triples sitting on my table and the debate is on, lol, sell or build a second motor...

Here's an old pic of my Dad's Fairlady Pic is from '83/'84 maybe, when we lived in Japan

:rofl: nah, no breakdown -- That was the car's maiden voyage and the nut on the end of the t/b linkage came loose, I was re-tightening and the GF decided it was a good time for a photo break

This. Im in Florida and looked to Cali for a Z. Unless there is a sentimental reason for that specific chassis, theres better starts out there.

Engine bays like this make me want to build a second motor with triples... gorgeous man Mine presently, my intercooler is sitting here waiting to go on shortly though.

kandy tangerine pearl

Its a fender badge for the 240z Thanks google: http://store03.prostores.com/servlet/discountnissanparts/the-2034/DATSUN-240Z-DATSUN-FENDER/Detail Another: http://www.rhdjapan.com/kameari-datsun-emblem-s30-front-fender-58337

Since I sort of piggy-backed on 240z7273's thread, just wanted to follow up and found my issue was caused by loose pins in the ECM connection -- have gone through all the pins and fixed as needed and solved my issues. Even though we had similar symptoms, dont know that we had the same problem.

Yea lean during spool is typical, as it helps spool-up times. For example, on my Avenger (2.0L DOHC with a very large Holset HX40 turbo at 24psi on pump) I would tune very lean, 13.8-14.0 or so during spool, to help with lag. If your turbos arent quick to spool, your tuner was likely trying to help get things going -- running fat during spool would hurt even more. These are the type of intricacies of the L-Series that Im interested in and need to learn. Different motors respond differently, back to my Avenger, we tend to tune very fat (11.0-11.4) at full boost because the 420a tends to make more power that way. If the L-series is happier and stronger running leaner, then ignore my comment above about fattening things up near redline.

You could lower the resolution of the software and the result would appear to be a smoother a/f curve, or you could increase the resolution and have even more spikes. Unless other cars roll off that same dyno with flat a/f curves, I wouldnt stress about the small peaks and valleys too much. The small spikes from 4000K rpm on wouldnt concern me much as the slight trend towards lean as redline approaches. If you have enough injector left, I would probably want to even that out. You also have a lean spot from ~2500 to ~3500, but Im assuming this is during spool, which Ive always tuned lean during spool-up also as it decreases spool up time (unless theres something different about the L28, but thats how Ive tuned other cars).