grannyknot

Here you go, https://tiltonracing.com/product/master-cylinder-reservoirs/ I have always found Tiltons reservoirs fit perfectly on Nissan MC's

I kept as much of the original wiring harness as I could, pruned out some of the stock wire and integrated the bmw engine harness into the existing. As long as you have gone through the stock harness and cleaned the contacts and grounds you will be fine, it is a good quality harness. The thing I don't like about new wiring harnesses is they cheap out by using the thinness possible gauge wire they can get away with, that might be great for their bottom line but I would rather have a thicker cooler wire any day.

Not at all, use the most aggressive wire wheel you have, modulate your pressure depending how deep the rust is.

Can you guys who know what you're talking about give us an example of a well designed aftermarket rear control arm please? Personally I would like to know in case I ever go that route but it also would round out this thread for anyone in the future looking at this topic. Thanks

Oh I know all about that. This is great news, I think the Tanks Inc. MeterMatch is just the TechnovVersion unit with a different sticker on it, the price is all most identical.

So when you brought the sending unit into the cab did you use its full range of swing to determine empty, 1/4 full, half full ...? When you had the programing done could you swing the float up and down and see the gauge react?

Interesting that by cutting off the steering rack mounts you managed to get the engine farther back by about 2" from where I ended up, I kept the Datsun rack but cut out the center section of the cross member, lowered it 3/4" and brought it forward 3/4". It's looking good.

Normally I would agree but my sender is new.

@Derek, that second link for the MeterMatch looks promising, I've programed the Speedhut fuel gauge a couple of times and my gauge still swings like a wind vane. I think I'll contact Tanks Inc. and describe the problem, I'm willing to part will $70 USD to have a working fuel gauge again, I'll post the results.

How did you even that out, prop valve on the front?

You could just do away with all that and go with a hydraulic throwout bearing, it acts as the slave and bearing in one piece. Being a T5 from a Camaro there are probably off the self units made just for your trans.

Thanks Ben, somehow I deleted the second video from the previous post so I have put it back in, that's the test with stock prop valve. Exactly half of the pressure from the MC, the stock prop valve was disassembled, cleaned and rebuilt just before this test so I know it's working properly. I probably could have left it on and been just fine for balance.

I spent the day making up brake lines to fit the 3 configurations, bleeding each one and testing while trying to record it all on video. As @JMortensen suggested, compressed air is NOT a good substitute for brake fluid when testing a prop valves as you will see. So to any future readers please ignore my conclusions in the first post. The Wilwood prop valve acted exactly as you would assume it would with each turn cutting off a bit more pressure until the minimum was reached. This testing was done on a 72/240z with a new 15/16" Master Cylinder, rebuilt 280z brake booster, all new Cunifer brake lines, SS flex hoses and Wilwood 120-6816 4 piston calipers on the rear. The fronts brakes were not tested. - the first configuration was 15/16" MC straight through to the calipers with NO prop valve and I assume no vacuum booster assist as the engine was not running. 1200 psi pushing as hard as I could. - the second configuration was with the stock 240z prop valve installed, 600 psi pushing as hard as I could. - the third was with the Wilwood 260-12627 prop valve installed and the stock prop valve removed, you’ll notice that with the Wilwood prop valve installed with the valve wide open there is a 100 psi decrease in the total pressure down to 1100 psi from 1200 in the 1st video. wide open, 1100psi 1 turn closed, 1050psi 2 turns 950psi 3 turns 950psi 4 turns 875psi 5 turns 750psi 6 turns 750psi 7 turns 650psi 8 turns 600psi 9 turns 600psi 10 turns 575psi 10.5 turns 575psi I took it out for a run with the prop valve turned all the way closed to 575psi and I that’s just about right. I warmed up the brakes a bit then tried a panic stop, PS rear lock up but none of the others. Tried the same thing again and the DS front locked up but none of the others so I’m pretty close but will continue to test and play with it. So the front brakes are now getting 1200psi and rear 575psi. https://youtu.be/FWQ2V-w1Av4 For some reason the 3rd vid won't embed but the link is above.

For that kind of money they should have been wrapped in Velvet, no excuse for poor packing. However, it probably won't make any difference to the way the seal and bearings go on just make sure any burrs are smoothed off with some light filing and some steel wool to help you catch the tiny ones.

Okay, some of these measurements are tough because you are on your knees with your head almost upside down to see them, also there is the curve of the rocker to eyeball. I think you should get these measurements from at least 2 other guys and maybe average them. Here's what I got, red line to yellow line 14 7/8th", yellow line to green line, 5 1/2", red line to the actual hole in the panel where the bumper bolt goes through on a 1972 Z, 9 3/4"

It looks like the fenders lips have been replaced because of rust, very common area to need work. Basically your going to have to strip all the paint and mud off that area to see what you really have, be prepared for the worst because the work that is showing doesn't look like it was done by a craftsman. The replacement panel can be purchased hear by the company that makes them, https://tabcoparts.com/16751.html The roof is the real concern I think, if those hair line rust marks disappear with a few strokes of some 220 grit sand paper then that's great but rust that is just breaking through from the inside of the roof can look like that too. That is a tough area to repair because of the 4-5" lip inside the cab where the headliner tucks into it

It looks like he has cut the quarter panel metal above the body line that runs the length of the car, I'm sure there are others here with a lot more experience than me but I don't see how you will get ZG flares on the rear without removing all that fiber glass, replacing the metal, then just cut the lip off so you will have something there to attach the flares to. ZG flares can go above the bodyline as well but they metal under them.

I previously removed the original prop valve so it might be worth reinstalling it to see what the bias is. I just remembered I have these sitting the shelf, I ordered one from Amazon and about 2 months later a 2nd one showed up. By tapping these in just before the calipers front and rear I could get some hard numbers for the stock prop valve and the Wilwood prop valve.

My fuel gauge is paired with a voltmeter, I think to get it working you would have to install a modern universal fuel level sensor.

LOL I thought it was just me, sometimes it reads correctly sometimes it jumps around. I have tried to reset it a couple of times with no improvement, now I just use the trip odometer.

Not at all Ben, I appreciate the help. I was told by the owner of Silvermine that the kits I chose would be perfect without a prop valve so I didn't bother to hook it up, well I'll install it and see if it helps. The only reason I bought those particular kits was because I was told they were a matched set with perfect bias for the Z. Thanks As Miles says, don't bother. That is the setup I just replaced with the Wilwood setup.

Thanks for catching that Ben, I have fixed the first link, this is the front kit, https://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/brake-upgrades/240z-260z-280z-front-wilwood-brake-upgrade-kit I'm using the 15/16" M/C

Thanks for the link Jon, it would be interesting to get that meter and test in a real setting. I'm not sure where you got the idea from but I'm not using the prop valve on the front brakes, I will be using it to decrease braking pressure to the rears as they are locking up before the fronts. I just installed the Silvermine front and rear kits, https://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/brake-upgrades/240z-260z-280z-front-wilwood-brake-upgrade-kit and, https://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/brake-upgrades/datsun-240z-260z-280z-rear-dual-caliper-wilwood-brake-upgrade-with-dedicated-cable-handbrake-caliper-stock-cable and although I haven't completed the bedding in process yet I can tell the rears are getting too much of the balance. I thought compressed air might not be a good substitute for brake fluid but it's what I had on hand.

I had this proportioning valve on the last brake set up I had and really couldn't tell if it was doing anything so I've done some testing and I think the results might be helpful to others. I hobbled together some fittings that were air tight, Wilwood says this unit will decrease the amount of braking pressure by 50% with the knob turned all the way up to the top of the threads, well I found that 33% was the best I could get from it. The proportioning valve only has a 1000 miles use on it and is very clean inside. I started with 90psi which resulted in 60psi for the rear wheels, with one full turn of the knob CW the pressure came up to 75psi, with one more full turn brought the pressure up to the full 90psi, so all of it's proportioning takes place in the top two turns and there is still 9 more full turns left until the knob bottoms out. So why are those 9 other turns on there? Just to confuse us I guess. So disregard the bottom 9 turns as they do nothing, 33% decrease is more than enough for me to work with. Now compressed air is not brake fluid so I suppose the results might be different, how much? I don't know enough about fluid dynamics to say one way or the other. 3rd pic at 60psi, 4th pic one turn down, 5th pic 2 turns down.

Or, since it is all hidden behind the battery anyway, flatten the bottom edge of the stamped section where you made the cut and just weld it up to your new patch.