grannyknot

You're right, I said woodruff key but I meant the drive/locating pin.

I like it!

The starter, it's a big draw item.

Buy it, I think that's a great deal.

Maybe next time you drop it in you can attach the transmission and start looking at the driveline angles, really looking forward to what you find, I know I had to drop the nose of the R200 diff about an inch to work right.

The same thing happened to me once, engine only spun with the starter, I had 11 valve dents on the tops of the pistons but only 3 bent valves so you get lucky too.

If you do end up cutting it out you can get access from above by slicing through the floor pan, you'll will also be able to see how much meat is on the captive nut.

Your cam shaft is probably fine, the cam bolt backed off that sheared the woodruff key and now when you take the head off you will have little crescent shaped indents in the tops of you pistons where the valves hit. Your pistons will probably alright but you're going to have some bent valves to replace, don't crank the engine any more, just start pulling the head. I know how it feels

I guess I would start by trying to re tap the original threads and see how the bolt feels, you don't want it wobbly. I'm pretty sure that captive nut does not have enough meat to handle a M14 but it may be just fine with a 7/16". I know, I hate that too when someone does that but it may be the easiest option rather than weld it up and drill and re tap.

NOS

L28, stripped, 304lbs same L28 with flywheel/clutch pack and 5spd trans, 434lbs

Here we go, the crane scale is accurate, the engine leveler is 10lbs so subtract that from the totals. S54 with partial headers, throttle bodies, damper and some coolant pipes. No stater or Alt. 341lbs With flywheel and clutch pack, 380lbs 6MT transmission , 105lbs. Total 485lbs. L28 and flywheel/clutch pack plus 5spd transmission 425lbs.

If the new Ujoints don't solve the problem, the next place to look is the mustache bar bushing and insulating rubber washers. When they wear out they allow the mustache bar to slam up into the subframe, unfortunately the original rubber bushings are NLA so you are stuck with using Poly bushings which come with there own problems but they will fix the clunk.

I read on one of those spec lists the S54 weighs 328lbs but it didn't say what that included. This L28 weighed 304lbs but it only had the cast iron exhaust manifold on it. I'll see if I can get a weight on the s54 this weekend.

If you go with LED headlights get the best set you can afford and make sure they don't blind the on coming drivers, I have the H4 Halogens from Hella and a complete wiring harness upgrade, without new larger wires you won't see much improvement. The wiring harness upgrade that sells on MotorSport Auto are made by Zsonthebrain, this thread should give you all the info, https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/32389-best-new-headlights-for-a-stock-240z/

I've heard a few times over the years that the new windshield glass is a slightly different shape around the corners and can cause some leaks if not sealed up properly, personally I would pick up an old one.

Fantastic, the S54 is certainly the best straight six BMW ever made. Are you really going to run your trumpets like that, sucking road dust into your pristine cylinders? It would sound glorious though.

Have a look at my build, it covers a lot of what you will run into,

You can remove the licence plate light and behind it are the 2 bolts that hold the receiver latch to the car, unbolt them and the hatch should open. With that area having so much rust it is almost certain those to bolts will snap off when unscrewing them.

Hey Mike, welcome to the forum, if you're going to put a ford v8 in have a look at this, he did some beautiful work, https://www.lainefamily.com/240Z_V8_Conversion.htm

That looks like water got to the lead and it has oxidized, you can scrape away all the crumbly stuff until you get down to fresh lead then seal with epoxy when you do the rest of the car, filler will be needed to smooth out the lines.

I had my 72 dipped a few years back, you are working against time now that the metal is unprotected, the place that did mine sprayed the shell down with a water based rust inhibitor that was good for about 10 days. Something like this for inside the subframe, https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html Personally, I cut out those pitted ares and weld in new metal, but somewhere like the spare tire well I would just seal it well. Before you spray the epoxy make sure the metal is really clean, I use a lye based cleaner like Purple Power, then Methyl Hydrate, then wax and grease remover.

Sounds a little trollish, anyone brave enough to click on the link?

You'll love the new digital angle finders, so much easier to use than the old swinging pointer dials. You brought the thread back from the grave so it's all yours now and as you have found it is so nice to find a thread that answers questions and the results have been confirmed by more than person. The archives of Hybridz are priceless. Welcome to the forum.

That is a big selling point for me, I just cannot bring myself to cut the fenders up.