junglist

Can you run a plastic fan on the alternator you are running? I know some of the GM alternators have plastic fans that are lighter and more efficient than the metal blade style fans.

I need a driver's side door in good condition. I really only need the door, don't need the glass, regulators, door locks or handles or metal frame that holds the glass at the top. Send me a PM and let me know what you have, I'm willing to pay reasonable shipping costs. I'm located just outside Washington, DC if you want to meet in person somewhere.

Any idea if the window from a '72 would work in this door shell? If he doesn't want this door, I'll take it.

There is a guy in the for sale forum that is parting a bunch of Z's that had just the housings with no lenses for sale for $10.

I have a 280ZXT harness. I also have a 280ZXT intake manifold complete with fuel rail that still has the turbo injectors.

I think he just sells the Kameari gaskets which you can get in different thicknesses and are super expensive but are one of the only good "performance" head gasket options left. If someone were able to contract out a company to sell some MLS gaskets for these cars for around $100-150 they would make a killing.

He still sells some stuff on ebay from time-to-time.

That shop is not 5 minutes from me, its in Sterling, VA and called Piper Motorsports and they are known for doing top-notch fabrication and roll cage work. I was planning on eventually getting a cage put into my Z and taking it to them even though they are a bit pricey, this just confirms they'll get my business. They are located in a little strip center that has a unit that Dupont of car-owning fame has a unit in to service his cars (not open to the public) but he's got some insane Ferrari's and stuff there.

I have a Volvo T5R...its 240hp from the factory and it only pushes about 10-11psi. It seems to be a good motor from my experience. Supposedly the T5 motor can handle around 400hp on stock internals if its tuned properly, biggest issue is bent connecting rods.

Those look nice. Wish they made them in 17's.

There is a place near me called Fisher's hardware that keeps metric socket cap bolts in stainless steel in stock. Its nice to be able to go there and get most sizes I need...they are more expensive than Fastenal or McMaster, but I don't usually need the quantities those places sell.

I also got no instructions or templates.

Thats not true, I drove around my 350Z for nearly a year with a blown power steering pump. I blew the pump doing some drifting and donuts and just said F it and drove around for awhile...sucked in parking lots but other than that it wasn't a big deal. The dealer wanted $2300 to fix it because they said the rack needed to be replaced due to "metal contamination". I got a G35 pump from a junkyard for $50 to replace it, worked good as new after flushing the fluid.

You could always use the Rustoleum or Duplicolor self etching primers....they are an olive/drab green with a flat finish.

I media blasted the ZX turbo swastika rims I got on a parts car. I tried to avoid blasting the lips which were going to be polished and just blasted all the paint off the front and the entire backside. Also before blasting I took a ton of simple green, tal-strip and a wirebrush to remove as much scaly and loose dirt/grime before I blasted. After media blasting I polished the crap out of the lips and filed flat with a bastard file any curb rash. I then hand sanded the old painted areas and then painted the centers with duplicolor wheel paint.

Totally affordable and light on the wallet at $8,700 and $7,900!

I have one also, let me know.

Since he made that post almost 5 1/2 years ago and hasn't had any activitiy since August 2008, I doubt he will be replying to this thread. So that my reply is not useless, here is the Nissan part #'s for the rear wheel bearings and a link to them on CourtesyParts.com. The Nissan part #'s for the rear wheel bearings are: OUTER: 43215-E4100 - $46.41 OUTER SEAL: 43232-E4100 - $6.60 INNER: 43210-E4100 - $41.41 Note, I've seen the last 5 digits of the part# be different. I have a few sets of NOS rear wheel bearings in Nissan packaging and these are the part #'s they have on them.

Do you have a picture of what you are talking about so I can make sure I send you the right part? I'm sure I have one that I can send to you. Send me a PM.

I also have one.

I have one in decent shape, but shipping looks to be insane for me at almost $100! You might want to check out www.courtesyparts.com to see if they can ship one to you for cheaper as they only want $63.79 for a brand new one: http://www.courtesyparts.com/horn-pad-1970-1973-240z-p-568995.html?cPath=7724_7760&

Anyone know where I could get some rust-free doors in VA/DC/MD? I live in northern virginia but am willing to drive a reasonable distance to get a pair of early '70-'73 doors that are in good shape but would consider '74-'76 doors for the right price.

Are you looking for the Horn pad that says Datsun? Or the actual metal pieces that bolt onto the wheel that the horn pad is affixed onto?

I kinda always thought of cutting the bumpstops when lowering a car as standard practice. It is or used to be standard with Honda guys. I just did it when converting to coilovers on the Z, didn't really think twice about it. I cut pretty much what John said above and cut off the smaller cone-ish end.

He has a picture of the calipers with the hangers on his website, check there for reference.