blue72

Happened to me for the first time today. I even tried on three different computers with separate providers and browsers, but to no avail.

Okay, Mitchell lists as follows for an intake manifold gasket replacement: Lower 3.6 Upper 2.6 Add for cruise control interference .2 I guess the manifold is two pieces. Obviously, the more involved the process, the more labor to charge. The cruise control detail refers to moving it out of the way to get at and replace the gasket.

Looks like your regular old plain jane Z N47 which is different than the MN47. The Z car N47 is an open chamber design with round exhaust ports and exhaust liners. The MN47 is closer to a P79, just with smaller combustion chamber (39 or so cc), hence the quench pads. The P-79 has quench pads and exhaust liners too, but larger chambers (53cc).

That actually looks like an L6 wire set. From the factory they were wired over the valve cover. Those little bolt holes on the top are for tabs which hold clamps that separate the wires. As far as the longer wires, I personally can't help you, but I have seen them routed around the front. Here's a thread that dealt with a similar subject: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=128816

How about a list of cars that might actually be financially attainable? Luckily I keep and regularly maintain such a thing. #1 - Daily Driver My 1972 240Z #2 - All Corners R-32 GTR #3 - High Speed Heaven Big Block Nailhead 1965 Buick Riviera Gran Sport. With modern amenities and power everything. #4 - Mid or Rear '86-'87 Pontiac Fiero with Northstar swap. Possible twin turbo. #5 - Off the Beaten Trail My rip snortin' big block equipped, 35" shod, Dana 60 slingin' 1970 Suburban. #6 - Track Time Tough choice. How about an LS7/T56 equipped Solstice? #7 - WILD CARD Volvo P1800 Oh, and if money were no object, then I'd throw a Duesenberg in there somewhere. I should post this soon so I don't change my mind.

Small telescoping magnet?

Shoot, I kept the bag with part number on it from that bolt, but it must be in the storage unit. If I'm out that way soon I'll post it. I am just using the stock key and snout. I had accidentally mushroomed the end of the key a bit when installing the stock damper, and subsequently filed the end down a little bit.

I forgot about the thermostat hose, or I would have suggested it. I had installed the equivalent hose on my 240 with a hose clamp that was slightly too large for the hose and didn't clamp fully. Only squirted out antifreeze when it was north of 6k rpm. Took a little while to figure that one out.

I'm away from Mitchell at the moment, but I might be able to look it up for you tomorrow if no one else has it before then.

Just tried it a few minutes before I found this thread and it doesn't work, at least not for thread titles. Does seem to work fine for the main body of the message though.

I used to have some spare keys laying around from my L24E, but I think I threw them away, sorry. Powerforce damper? I thought I recognized those yellow numbers. From what I remember it was the first batch or two that had the sizing problem. The one I ordered six months ago went on with some soft tapping of a sand filled plastic hammer and lined up first try with the crank key. I was happily surprised. I also made sure to use the gigantic new Nissan bolt MSA recommends with the install.

Early round top SU's or triple Weber/Dellorto/Mikuni sidedraft carbs. Those are the most common carb options. Then there are the less frequently used Holley/4 barrel manifold, and dual Weber DGV options. There are many performance options available for most of the choices listed above. To run the SU's you need the SU carb intake manifolds, heatshield, balance tube and throttle linkage. Usually people are selling these as a whole package. For the Weber carbs you need an intake manifold (a couple of different manufacturers out there), the carbs (40mm or more likely 44-45mm), the throttle linkages and correct jets and chokes. Then you need all the little stuff like hoses and a lower pressure fuel pump/ fuel pressure regulator. Alot of this information is here on the site, like the sticky on choosing Weber size, jets, chokes and emulsion tubes based on displacement and other engine mods: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=93343 There are plenty of resources for info on SU carbs, how they work and how to tune them. Just google Hitachi SU carbs. http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/sutech.html http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ http://www.ztherapy.com/ - this one was already mentioned Here's some reading on the differences in SU intake manifolds: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135702 I'm a bit biased toward the SU's because I still run them on my L28. Just remember that they were designed for a 2.4l engine. Though many people have great running cars with L28's and the SM needles in their SU's. I personally had mine overbored to keep up with the cam and head work on my car. Runs great and still gets acceptable gas mileage. Don't know why you are ditching the EFI, but now you've got some reading to keep you busy I guess.

I removed it all the tar sound deadening from the floor of my 240Z with a large screwdriver and a hammer. It took a while, but the force of the shock would jar a quarter sized piece at a time loose. If I had thought ahead I'd have bought a large chisel. I can't imagine the goop it would turn into with the application of heat. Cold would probably be the way to go, apply the dry ice and start shattering it loose (I believe).

Is that some sort of new Dean Kamen experiment?

Also interested in price for a pair.

This has been posted here already in the past week. It's in the cars for sale section. One of the cars mentioned in his most recent ad was posted about the week before in this very subforum.

Where to start? That depends on how enthusiastic you are. You could either start poking and prodding, find rusty spots that need replaced. Then you'd order or make patch panels and weld them in. Or you could go further than that and have it media blasted to find all of the hidden swiss cheese. Any close up pictures or descriptions of the worst areas?

Very nice. The wagons came with a solid rear axle right? Yeah, front sump on the L24E, and if I'm not mistaken, that's the stronger of the two L24E engines.

Or find one in a junkyard. I lived in Phoenix until earlier this year, and found plenty of S30 chassis lounging around pick-n-pull type yards. Another option would be to give a call to Z Car Source, as they are in the Phoenix area and would readily have that part available.

I hadn't seen this one before, interesting premise. I was thinking it might have something more exotic than two pushrod actuated valves per cylinder. They are probably less expensive to produce, but maybe they'll come up with a 4 valve design in the future. I also would have thought it would be noisier at idle with all of those straight cut gears, but it didn't seem too bad. Certainly sounds like an old rotary piston engine from an airplane in those dyno videos.

At least he didn't keep bumping the starter until he ran into something.

I find it interesting that even the most insane Jeep 4.0L stroked and bored to 5.0L only produces around 300 horsepower (well, they can have almost 400ft lbs of torque though). That's with a big cam, ported head, 11.1:1 compression ratio, better intake and exhaust systems and all the other goodies thrown in for good measure. We've got N/A 3.1L Nissan motors here making just as much horsepower with a little less torque. There are plenty of web pages out there with 4.0 stroker buildup info on them, and it made for some good reading as I've got a '92 XJ. I still don't see it as an economically feasible alternative in a Z. It would be an interesting exercise in "look what I did" though.

I applaud your efforts. If we had a model with a high degree of precision, then we could expand our knowledge of Z car aerodynamics with CFD testing. Some other HybridZ members are already trying out bits of my model, but I'd probably have to tweak every last panel at least a little bit to make them line up with real world measurements. There are two High Res views of my model in my CGSociety portfolio: http://renderanything.cgsociety.org/gallery/ Here's a medium res shot of the undercarriage:

It is very well done. I just noticed some very small things, like hard edges where there should be beveled ones, particularly on the rear of the car. Open velocity stacks instead of an engine cover, and some other minor details on the body itself. It looks like he was recreating an early to mid eighties Countach, a 5000S. He did a great job, I'm just a nitpicker I guess.

Looks like you found the chassis blueprints from the FSM. I've modeled the 240Z in 3D, but my model is based purely on those chassis blueprints, orthrographic views in the FSM, and eyeballing my own car. I would love to see someone do this in CAD or another program, but use actual measurements from a real car to get it entirely accurate. That'd be very useful.