BleachZee

for a limited time it is free to list a car for sale on eBay. You may pay a couple dollars to add the 'reserve' feature.

If you give up on that system you may want to look into converting to the manual heater controls. They are much more simple and seem to work more reliably.

I've seen people swear that was the turbo on their Z.

The 280Z stock radiator has got to be 4 times the size of an A-series engine's radiator. You might not even need a fan

I bet its your vacuum advance in the distributor. Remove the cap and turn the rotor to the side by hand. Release it and see if it snaps back smooth and quickly or if the action feels gritty. Check the hose running from the distributor to the intake manifold. Make sure there are no leaks. Loosen the two base bolts on the distributor and advance it all the way. Start the car up cold and see if it runs a little better. I've tried rebuilding one to no avail. Replace the distributor with a used unit that has good advance action.

two problems that may arise are with the Crank Angle Sensor and the injectors. 1981 I believe had unique injectors with resistors in them. 1982-83 either did not need that or the resistors were in the ECU. If you use a 1982 harness and ECU, just install the 1982-83 distributor with the CAS built in and put in 1982-83 turbo injectors. There may be a way to wire in the '81 external CAS but I'm not sure how The head and block will be fine. I ran a 1982 head/block with manifolds, wiring, and ECU all from 1983. worked perfect.

plugs to block the holes? I don't know. Good luck with that. I search for low profile plugs but could never find the correct thread. I even went to a couple specialty bolt suppliers. I later found that some other people had used SAE plugs meant for V8s. They just jamed them in there, destroying the threads and it somehow sealed. I wasn't going to do that.

ya, that center tail light piece is going to go very soon

two thousand five hundred dollars

Addition: After you put a blockoff plate on "G" you do not need to do anything with hose "F". It will be sealed from the back by the blockoff plate you may also notice that "F" runs not only to the fast idle valve but it has an X pipe that feeds the bypass valve "E" which you will plug and the source of air to all these hoses is a small pipe right off of the factory J pipe from the turbo. I plugged these items but ran a hose directly from the J-pipe to the fast idle. It was still clean looking and retained my cold start idle.

I just bought this last weekend. 1983 turbo, all stock. 139k miles no cracks in the black dash!

The fast idle valve is only used on a cold startup. It will need to be triggered so I doubt Megasquirt has that feature. Megasquirt may have other cold start functions. I'm sure you'll figure that out in your research. A good running L28et can start up and idle a little low without that fast idle valve.

hole "E" is for the bypass valve. It opens when shifting under boost. Block that with a factory oil pan plug. Then install a BOV. "F" runs a hose to the fast idle valve. That valve bolts on to the bolts above hole A "G" is for the AAC valve. I have no idea what that does. I made a flat blockoff plate and bolted it down right on the manifold. "H" is your emergency release valve. It opens up and vents pressurized air at about 9psi. This is in case your wastegate fails to open or you decide to increase boost with a boost controller. If you remove it, it can be plugged with the large inset plug found on a Z31 intake manifold. (wrecking yard) "D" went to some hoses that hooked up to the 280ZX carbon canister. I removed the canister, hoses, and plugged this. Found a 1st gen Altima (or most any late model Nissan) oil pan plug fit in. "A, B, C" are for any vacuum hoses. boost gauge, FPR, ect.

It does look pretty good. I would like to see those front turn signal holes shaved. Personally, I would only consider buying that if the headlight covers were also available for purchase.

It looks really good. black with black wheels

This is all I've got. Hope it helps.

what are you looking for? Wiring or hoses on the intake?

no parking without wheels. Have you considered using the 280ZX fuel injection?

looks like a lookalike stripe to me. Not quite ZXR.

a non-turbo will get you the most miles per gallon. There are some things you can do to the car to maximize your freeway milage. If you're really looking for an economical car for a daily I don't see why you don't buy a 4-cyl car.

http://www.importedcarparts.com $37, two small screws and its done right. I did this and it worked wonderfully on my 280zx http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/archsoftware/importedcarpartspfp/wizard.jsp?partner=pacific&year=1982&make=NI&model=280-ZX-001&category=All&part=Ignition+Switch&partnerSession=0d8b634d72400b418e738b19d4714c80

then he'll post a new thread, "People keep stealing my mirrors" around here you can't leave a car with fender mirrors alone.

I bought the tranny loose so it was not in a car. No idea what year the T5 was from. However I remember it came with a 2-seater driveshaft. I purchased a 2+2 turbo driveshaft online and it fit fine. Installed it all in my 280zx 2+2.

Nissan still shows that part available. $135 brand new. but, they often end up being NLA once you go to actually order it. hard to say unless you place an order Mine isn't in too bad of shape so I think I'll just clean it up since it is the original one

so true. Its only worth what someone will pay, right? I had been 'shopping' for an S30 2-seater RHD for about 3 years prior to my purchase. By use of eBay and Zcar forums I had a good idea of what Fairlady Zs sell for in ok to rough condition. Every single Fairlady I saw sold fairly quickly. When I found the one local in Washington I purchased it right away. Based on my findings, it was worth it for what the Z market was in 2001. It seems most people would consider RHD worth more. However there are many Z car fans that do not even want a RHD Z so they of course wouldn't pay more... they might be the people who only take it if its free. I would pay more for a certain Fairlady. I passed up a couple 2+2's though because it wasn't what I wanted. If you choose not to pay more that is your choice. You may or may not find a Fairlady in your price range then. I tend to think of the northwest as having a plentiful supply of old Datsuns which generally keeps the price low in comparison to the rest of the USA... but seriously, a LHD Z in that shape that runs would easily demand a bit more than a grand. $1500 maybe but I wasn't really trying to put a price tag on that red one. I made no claim to the value of his car. I only mentioned what I paid and that his car looked decent. I wasn't misleading anyone. However I did not mention the differences to the car that I purchased which were (IMO) better than the 73 posted here. Overall, it seems that the first year Z cars have a bit more value than others. Mine is a 1970 and fairly low vin. All things considered I'm confident I paid a fair price and juding by what I had seen in the market the car would have sold right away had I not purchased it. I don't intend to suggest you pay a lot for it. By my original comment I was suggesting it is worth more than a thousand bucks... that's all. Good luck with the purchase.