Bernardd

Edwin, the car is blowing oil. I can stall the car while adjusting the injector size and it still blows whitist blue smoke as long as it runs.

That's most likely dynojet results; which are setup to mimic crank hp (everybody knows that right?). I don't get why people take dyno numbers as anything meaningful....

Is that a precision gts76 turbon on the car? What size is the turbine housing/wheel? Looks like it could use more cam as well. I'm curious about the boost as well and what is the stall rpm on the converter?

Sorry to hear about the family loss Scottie. Hope everything works out for you with the car.

I've tuned a fuel only setup to 8psi as well on local 91 and it had no problems making 245hp on a mustang dyno with 34deg's. It had a meth setup with a small m8 nozzle on it at 60psi.

If you make more power at the lower boost level and more timing you need more octane or better charge cooling or the turbo is running off the map at the higher boost level. I had the same situation with a 123.9 trap at 22-23psi and x timing. With 26psi and x-7deg's timing I could only muster a disappointing 119mph at the strip. If I had stuck with the old setup I would have started to add a degree of timing each run until I reached the point of little or no gain.

They're the same. A j30 maf is also the same.

No they are not compatible. If you want a z32 ecu setup pm me and I can help you out.

How much power are you looking to make?

Ok, let me know when you're on the way over.

I think or thought that he was kidding that's why I didn't reply..... and it's supposed to be nice and cool for friday night under the lights. Car is on the trailer ready to and you're welcome to join me.

Is this going to a twin scroll manifold? I might be interested if it is.

Why don't you grab a turbo cas/oil pump drive and use a chipable nissan ecu. You can tuneable efi for under 300 bucks.

You can use a turbo oil pump/drive and install a either a z31 cas which one slit larger than the others to denote cyl 1 or you install a z32 cas which has a different sized slit for each cylinder.

AHA!! I was hoping you'd chime in. I would be very interested in any info you're willing to share. What transmission did you use? What did you do for a converter and how did you manage the convert mounting? Thanks again for any info you can provide. Bernard After a search on your posts I see that you're willing to make another adapter so that's the way I'd go if you're still up for it.

@ Spork: I chat with James every now and then about turbo things and such. I have all his info and cell#. I'm looking for an individual that did a conversion who is from the northwest. @Bradman: that conversion would be perfect for what I want. I'll pm him and see what he says.

I know a few of you have made conversions. I would like an o/d unit that is capable of holding more than the jatco 4n71b. Post up any info, or conversions for sale and or how'd you go about making your own conversion.

PHIL, at what rpm where you seeing full boost with the .63 and what was the boost level....and where are those two parameters now? Are you running the big cam cyl head or a stock head?

The rx7club forum has a couple of good threads in the aux injection forum for preturbo water injection setups with diagrams and results. I would like to see a link to the 34-40% increase in efficiency with preturbo water injection. I would switch to that type of setup if it would save having to upgrade my h-trim to a gt35r. I think a combination of the two might be the way to go. I cannot find a link but I seem to recall someone explaining why air saturated with methanol will still have room to carry water.

You'll have no problems setting the boost to 4psi by lengthening the arm on a stock 280zxt turbo actuator. The stock actuator spring tension is increased when the arm is installed onto the wastegate arm on the turbine housing. If you have to pull the actuator arm out a bit to install it onto the turbo you should have enough to do the same with your wastegate. Hope that makes sense. Usually an internal wastegate starts moving well before the set pressure.

Lengthen the arm on the actuator. Buy a turnbuckle and get it welded onto the arm and adjust to desired boost level. I've got one in the garage at the farm that can be set to 0psi.

You can also change the turbo boost reference from the intake to the turbo outlet. Are you using an electronic boost controller or a ball and spring type? The electronic bc gain can be turned down or switch to a bleed type manual boost control and the boost hit should slow down.

I have a couple of valve body's that are modified for either better shifting as well as a full manual vb. The info is on z31performance.com

Do you have a link to this car? I can't find it on speedhunters.com

Your turbo parts are waiting for you in steinbach. You are going to turbo it aren't you?