yo2001
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Everything posted by yo2001
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Alex does have a point. I blow a head gasket with a stock fuel pump @12PSI.
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That makes mine looks like I got alot of room. Looking great.
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Check and see if the if the BOV closing fast enough. I don't if that's the problem but could be the BOV is creating a small vacuum leak.
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Cool, Thanks for the info. I got me a turbo. It's just a T3/TO4B hybrid... with 2.3xx exducer and 3.0xx major trim wheel and Stage III turbine
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I don't know, I think the 10 balde Garrett suppose to build boost just as fast as 11 blade due to more effiecient design. O Alex, Does T3 super 60 comes with stage III turbine? I was told those are 10 blades
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It's hard to find a turbo shop who has Garrett 10 blades but Turbonetic makes 10 blades also.
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$89 from turbonetic. #30326 is the part #. I'm ordering one soon, if anyone wants me to get you one, let me know. The order is going to take 7-10 days.
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Dyno is alot of load specially dynojet286 ? (can't remember the number. But it's not much worse than going up a steep hill so it it's going to detonate on dyno, it's going to on steep incline. Just try to keep the head temp low nad airflow through radiator and IC it should be fine. IMO
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Walker said he's still a Turbonetic dealer 8) I'll see what he can do
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OK, so there is really no way to change the pre setting of the canister. Well, I just go to keep my foot out of it.
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Yeah, the WB actualator might be facing too far up. but it just might fit. If it doesn't, I just make me a T3 WG bracket and run a bend rod or something. I don't know, it's stiffer than the stock Nissan Unit for sure. The stock unit was opening @ 10 psi via air compressor. One that I got looks like it was worked on some. Well, as long as WG opens around 10 psi, I should be OK. Thanks guys
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Ok, that's my WG Actualtor looks like. I had to pull on the rod ro put it on before so I loosen it. Now it's just tight enough to keep the flapper shut. But I think the spring pressure is too stiff. the turbo must been set for high boost setting. Well, I guess I can get another one or give it more fuel Thanks
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Nothing wrong with 15psi, if it wasn't 60-1 on a stock injectors. HAHA. (I'm getting injectors soon) It's not a stock WG actualator. I guess I need to take the tension out. How do I take it apart?
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http://www.racetep.com/
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How do I fix that? I got the internal WB. I got the actualtor rod as far I can, but the WG won't budge until about 15psi. Do I have to go get me another one?
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LY was 2 valve/cylinder head. also requires the motor to tilt the opposite direction to give clearance to the intake. the bell housing need to be altered too.
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I think the TEC II has a E-fan power lead to turn the fan on and off. That'll be nice.
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three turn on the boost controller, no more threadshold Do you have the standard boost controller with one adjustment hole or performance one with two adjustment holes? I got one with two if you want to try it.
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Crazy L28 combo!!! Surely nobody has tried it yet...
yo2001 replied to a topic in 6 Cylinder Z Forums
I think Electromotive car ran 140mm rods. (FJ20DET rods) -
Alot of timing will lean the mixture but whne the timing is too high, you won't burn the fuel good which can cause it to smoke. Checked your plugs, your plugs would get white.
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Have you checked your total timing? you might have too much timing not enough octane.
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Topend RAcing got them. It's expensive though
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On duel port WG actualator, you can hook the boost controller on the second nipple and keep the original boost signal on the other one. Suppose to keep the WG from opening too early (creep) More adjustablity too with the boost controller. Lockjaw got one, he said it works real well on his car.
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You know that harmonic from the crank pass 7k rpm is one of the cause of broken pulley right? I'm not saying it's impossible, but I think it just becomes a weak point. RB series got full counter crank, L6 got a 10 counter I think.
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I'm not talking about the flow of the head but more about the crank pass 7k rpm.