dexter72

Cool Randall, was thinking that since you had stated earlier that you were running .035 plug gap, the spark was blowing out under boost. Which can lead to possible hesitations, pre-ignition, and possible detonation depending on your tune. Just thinking: Early on with my setup, I could hear the engine pre-ignite under medium acceleration, it would hesitate also. My spark plug gaps were .038 to .035. Did some searching on this site and I lowered the gaps to .025 and never had the problem again. Are you positive you never heard any detonation or pre-ignition while under boost?. Have you thought of richening up the afr's a tad after 3500 rpm's?.

I would also close the 0.35 spark plug gap to 0.28

If you remove the coil wire from the cap and place that end close to a ground, crank the engone over and you should see spark. If you don't hear or see a spark, start checking the distributor. A lot of times when the module cools down the engine will then start and run normally. If the engine has an HEI distributor it may be the HEI module, Possibly the pick up also.

You might not have a problem at all, You may have to drive the car and get the turbo to spool up pretty good first. I upgraded to a t3-t4 turbo and had it rebuilt before installing it. It wouldn't spin at idle either when first put it on, so i took the car out for a quick spin. Drove it about a mile and checked to see if it would spin at idle, it did. Has spun at idle since then.

Can you add Carb cleaner/Starting fluid to the carbs and see if it will start?

I would remove the #2 spark plug to see if it is wet. If so i would then check the rest of the spark plugs for being wet. I would also remove the connector from the #2 fuel injector, it may be stuck open. Keep that fuel injector disconnected. If the plugs are all wet, clean them with can of brake cleaner spray or a can carb cleaner in a spay can. Then crank the engine over a few times with no spark plugs in it. That will blow out any remaining fuel in the cylinders. Re-install all the spark plugs and hold the gas pedal down to the floor while trying to start the engine. If the engine starts and runs let it clear up then shut it off and re-start it by just cranking it over. I would then connect the #2 fuel injector after the engine is running and see how the engine runs. I am suspecting that fuel injector is bad. You also mentioned that the #2 coil melted, Did you change the wiring to both the coil and the fuel injector?.

The ride isnt really rough at all, like i said they were some aftermarket replacement springs which had the car looking like a 4x4.

Domzs, After i cut the 2 coils out of the front springs it lowered my front about 2 1/2 inches. Now remember the car had some aftermarket springs on the front that had the front end way up in the air. From the side view the front fender is now even with the top of the tire. I have 205-60-15's all the way around on stock 2000 infiniti G20 wheels.

The previous owner of my 260z had aftermarket springs installed on my car all the way around. I replaced the front strut inserts on it later on and cut a coil out of the front springs. I figured that would drop the front enough, Nope. It was still real high in the front so i then cut another coil out of them. That got it to an acceptable height, the front bounces a little bit but the ride is not harsh. These were stock aftermarket replacement springs though.

If that price is for a complete R200 Differential with 3.54 gears in it, I would buy it. I'm in AZ and most yards out here sell rear diffs for $65 bucks. The 3.54 R200 diff, is in the turbo 280ZX's.

The cheapest way to get the rear Maxima brackets may be by searching through the junk yards in your area over the weekend. Maybe you and a friend can comb through different yards and see what's out there.

I second the What year engine are you trying to turbo? What components do you have that are Turbo ones? What components do you have that are n/a? With better info we can lead you in a good direction. I have turbo'd an 83zx n/a engine, added turbo injectors and it was a nice little setup. Car would pass emissions with flying colors as well. Ran the car that way for 3 years before upgrading to megasquirt. It has been done by many people.

Howler, Not trying to thread jack Just wanted to ask you a couple of questions, since you performed a piston swap. Then compared the performance numbers. What piston setup did you discover was the better of the two for you?. What was the timing difference and which setup produced the lower et's?. Thanks

Nice going, just remember to check the basics.

Hardware stores or places like Home Depot and Lowes, sells small butane torches that you may be able to use to burn off the fuel. I just usually use some brake kleen or carb cleaner from a spray can to clean spark plugs up.

If it were my engine i would remove all the spark plugs and see if they are all wet. Clean them up with some carb or brake clean spray and dry them off. Remove the coil wire from the coil and crank the engine over to clear all the cylinders of any fuel that might be in them. Install the cleaned up plugs, plug the coil wire back in and fire it up. Should be ok once you get it running in my opinion.

Have you been able to get the nut off that stud yet?. Once you do, you should still be able to get the stud out of the block.

Ditto. Find your turbo parts on here or craigslist. Buy a megasquirt unit and parts. Figure out what turbo you want to use, have exhaust made up and your basically done. You may need to upgrade your clutch and rear diff.

Large Mcdonalds cups fit in the ashtray of my 260z, Circle K 44oz styrafoam cups fit in it nice and tight also. My only issue with it is that huge straw rubs my arm while shifting.

You need to read the Megamanual, so you can setup Megatune and megasquirt to run your engine GM intake air temp sensor. Mid 90's on up Nissan Throttle position sensor. Wideband 02 sensor. Wideband gauge. Relays and box for your megasquirt. You didn't post what else you had for your car so these should have you in good shape.

Get your brake lights working first..Check the fuses and the pedal switch. unplug the switch and jump the connector terminals and then see if your brake lights work. The turn signals not working could be from a bad hazzard switch or the turn signal switch. check those

EXACTLY to both of the above.

Now try disconnecting the radio, speaker Amp,Upgraded headlights, and so on. and any other things that have been added to the car. For the alternator i would remove the power wire not just the fuse. I also think the multi meter setting should be on Ma and around 400ma is ok for a system draw. correct me if i am wrong.

Congrats to you!!! Nothing better then to hear it start and run after a megasquirt install. Makes you feel like you actually know what your doing.

Does the engine run, will the engine run on its own after first spraying it with starting fluid? Are the injectors actually spraying fuel? Are your settings correct in ms for low impedence injectors? Did you perform the coolant sensor calibration and enter the numbers in MS, i don't see the sensor calibration. I just see 0 Once you get it to start on its own, try adjusting cold start after you get it to start on its own.