FlatBlack

Looks awesome! Have fun with the restoration...

Im running polyurethane, Tokico HPs and the 185/200 springs, and my exhaust makes my ears bleed on the interstate, but it was definitely worth it. Suspension!

Pulling the old motor: My other hobby:

Wow. Who knew? Which car is going to get sprayed?

Dave - Its got all of the parts I would need to do a swap and I don't have a V8 yet. So... This would be a good starting point. [i would be transferring it to the flat black car] And you have the market cornered for owning small block V8 Z cars up here anyways

It also has block hugger stye headers

It only happens in first gear? Have you taken the black cover off the AFM?

It was just a walk up to the house and ask deal, no real 'bidding.' So there will be much haggling if they would sell the car. Thanks for the advice! My thoughts were that even if the drivetrain wasn't worth it, having all of the V8 swap parts in the body was worth it. I would even take just the car minus the motor and tranny if they'd let it go for super cheap [and I am a fan of the swastika wheels ]. I have a SBC 350 lined up if it needs a motor...

I have been trying to decide between turbo L6 or V8 for the upcoming summer project and I believe I might have found the answer. On the way to work a couple months ago I noticed a black ZX sitting in a guy's yard under a tarp with iron cross turbo wheels. I had always wanted to stop, and I finally did today. I asked if they would be willing to sell it [hoping to find a turbo under the hood] and the wife said "well its got a Dodge 360 in it." The car is a basket case, the interior is shot and its pretty rusty. She said it needed a new carb, and listed whatever else was wrong with the car. She said they were debating fixing it up in the spring but didnt sound very convincing. I have a buddy that works on V8s often so I would have help locally. I just think if I can get this for a reasonable price this would be a sign from the Z gods giving me the go-ahead with a V8 swap. If anyone has done this swap please chime in, or if you have any other comments such as "Don't get a dogde 360 it is hard to find a manual tranny" or whatever. I have NOT researched this very much and will need to do some serious reading about it, but I would love to hear some thoughts. I DO NOT know: How many miles the motor has on it How long ago it ran If it overheats, random things like that. How much they want for it I DO know: Its a Dodge 360 [looked like stock valve covers, *probably* stock internals] Its got an electric fan and new radiator The motor is in the car and ran It has a rebuilt Auto tranny with a Hurst shifter, the wife said it was built for the track Thanks V8 Zed heads

I didnt move the car at all, I put the old wheels on the front and Im just waiting for the spacers. My old tires were Yoko AVES100s [same tires as these], they had a gash in the same place and they were fine. I am pretty sure it is a rash guard. There wasn't too much material taken off so Im pretty sure it was alright, it was just a mile or two.

When I first got my 280 I went through 5 fuel filters before I broke down and spent the money on a dipped tank. That problem kept coming up for me... I bought a fuel rail with a pressure gauge on it and if you can get one it helps so much while troubleshooting on the fuel side.

15" Rota RB's - Sorry, Gato, you had the look I wanted

I just got back from Louisiana with a set of 15" Rota Rb's that 260Zturbo had on his Z before he got the 17" RB-Rs. He was running spacers on the 15s, but said it was mostly for aesthetic purposes. [so I didnt take them with me] I went to the shop today to put them on, and drove the car home. It felt fine on the drive over but I started smelling burnt rubber. I parked it at my house which is about 2 miles away from the shop, and got down and saw that the front tires are rubbing on the spring perch of my front struts. The tires are 225 yokohamas so they are hanging over the wheel. The rim has plenty of clearance. I was just wondering if anyone thinks I did structural damage to the tire or if they are fine. It didnt take too much material off. Should I throw my old wheels back on the front and wait for the spacers?

Je - ais Tu - ais Il/Elle/On - ait Nous - ions Vous - iez Ils/Elles - aient Just got out of my Chem Exam, I've got Igneous/Metamorphic Petr. tomorrow and then I'm out!!

Thats one clean Z! I would love to snag a pair of those tails...

Wow the interior is awesome. Good luck with another new project!

Im having the same problem, I feel your pain. How did you change the ground wire on the back of your alternator? Did you move it? Good luck!

x2 and maybe a little more reliable?

I vote for a V8 with the M-112, it would be fairly unique and look cool. haha L26 + Flat tops in a Z32...

I was told the car was a 77, but it could either be a 78 or have the internally regulated alternator. It looked just like mine, and it was doing the same thing to the internally regulated ZX alternator that was previously on the car... So I don't think that is the issue. Could an ignition module do this? Just putting it out there...

Its a brand new battery, and I drove it back to the shop on just the battery. The alternator was not hooked up [it was in the long version] That could be the case if the car is a 77... I will look into that, but this was happening with my 280zx internally regulated alternator - and I thought late 280s had internal regulators.

This will be a long post - I am heading into finals so I havent spent too much time troubleshooting this, just wonderd if anyone could suggest some causes. Thanks! I have a 78 280, stock EFI, alternator from a ZX, internally regulated. Abstract: New battery, new starter, two working alternators, Z won't stay running. Goes really lean then dies, runs really bad when the headlights are on, but it will run with them off. Tach is going crazy. The car has been running great since I put the new motor in and I have been enjoying the tocikos. I parked the car for a week or two because it got cold up here, but then decided to drive it to work one morning. Everythign ran fine, but the red light on the volt gauge started lighting up. I had to jump the car before I left for work that morning, but I thought it was because I left my radar detector on. I unplugged the battery anyways to be safe, but when I went out to the car after work, it had to be jumped again with no drain on it. I fugured it might be the starter, so I put a spare gear reduction ZX starter on it. Still nothing. Jumped the car, fired right up. Figured it was the alternator after that, even though It was brand new from the spring of this year. Let the car warm up outside while I cleaned up the shop, came outside and it had died [after running for abotu 5 minutes]. Tried to jump it again, finally got it running, and the RPM gauge was being wacky [reading 0, or it would jump to about half of the actual revs] and the voltmeter light came on again. It would not idle without gas, and it was running really lean [my fuel press. gauge was at ~ 35 regulated]. I unhooked the alternator, and the car ran fine, so I pulled it back into the shop. Threw on another 77 alternator off of a running car, and the car cranked right up. I let it idle for a little bit, and it ran fine, but still had 16v with the light on. At first it got brighter when I revved, but after a few minutes it stopped getting brighter when I hit the gas. I figured it was charging the battery, so I took it for a spin. Got on the road, rode for a little bit, heard it start to go lean [same problem as before] and turned into a car park as it died. It would not even click the starter when I tried to start it again. I unplugged the alternator again, and jumped it with my daily, then drove it back on the battery. Had to turn the headlights off though otherwise it would die. limped back to the shop with a misfire. Im wondering if I've fried two good alternators. Sorry for the long read!

x2 Looks great

Im rolling on 205s all around on my rims currently, Picking up some 15" Rota RBs with 225s on them during christmas break.