FlatBlack

For real. I'm dealing with my own motor issues, I didnt do it yesterday sorry.

Nice. "This group worries more about traction control than most guys worry about erectile dysfunction." Haha it's because with plenty of power and traction, ED is not an issue...

Are you serious? Man I'm going to flip out if that's it. Trumpet and I had a good laugh at your expense after hearing that. I will definately clean and check the wires tonight.

I did unbolt the timing bolt so it can rotate as much as it needs to, but it's already within that range. Did you ever figure what happened to your headlights?? That's really random that would happen to us both.

^ That's what I was thinking

I'm picking up a timing gun today, I've been adjusting the dizzy by hand to 'dial it in.' It will rev as high as I want it to while idleing, as soon as I gets under load it starts sputtering.

Abstract: My timing is off, due to a great many possible things, the car will rev fine while idleing but once under load it stumbles and will not run properly. My vacuum advance is hooked up. The Full Story: I did do a quick search, didn't find much in the way of helping with my problem though. I figured this would be new thread worthy. Last weekend I put a new headgasket and ARPs on my 1980 L28 F54/P79 motor. I thought I might had dropped the chain, so I pulled the front cover off. While down there I put my new 83 L28ET oil pump in there. I set the timing chain up according to the FSM, with the crank timing mark at 3 o'clock on the right side, and the cam gear timing mark at 3 o'clock directly above it, and counted 42 links as it said. Put everything back together, and the car wouldn't start, backfiring through the intake, etc. I figured we had set the timing on the exhaust stroke, so I took the oil pump back off, rotated the gear 180*, and put it back together. The car would start and idle when I turned the dizzy all the way clockwise. I got back under there and moved the oil pump shaft over again, but it still was not perfect. I had to unbolt the 'slot' for the dizzy [the one that you tighten when you are done setting the timing] and rotate it clockwise, but the car ran fine and would rev all the way up. I then decided to move every spark plug wire around one spot so that the dizzy would be back over the timing slot and I could bolt it up. The motor sounded great, it revved up to 4,000 RPM no problem. and I put the car on the ground. As soon as I let the clutch out to move it forward, the car bogged down and almost died. I got out and played with the position of the dizzy but nothing changed that much. It would rev up fine again, but under about 15-20% throttle it would bog down as if it were under a load. Also, my headlights will not turn on. I am not sure if this is related, though. Running lights and everything else work great. My questions: - Could I have set the timing chain wrong? - Could it be related to setting the timing up on the exhaust stroke? - Could the turbo oil pump be different than the N/A pump in terms of the dizzy shaft? - Could the dizzy/cap/rotor/ignition wiring/coil/etc. be bad? - Is this something I can fix without having to tear the motor down again? I will do whatever is neccessary, I have all weekend, but this 'project' has already tripled in time and I am getting worn out. ANY suggestions that you have would be great, thanks for reading the long novel up there.

I googled "Y44 240Z" and was going to send him some links to disprove his "ONLY ONE IN THE WORLD" Theory but I restrained myself...

I'll try to throw something together later today, It's mostly the angle that I'm worried about. Do you have a spare set of buckets? I think you should buy a lens and check it out http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/04-05-06-07-BMW-Mini-Cooper-OEM-headlight-LH_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1171Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a0Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem320344273716QQitemZ320344273716QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Glad you found out what it was When my fuel pump went out, one of the brushes was bad. If it landed on a specific part of the pump, it wouldn't start. I could rotate it by hand and it would start again though, and it would work until it stopped on that one point. Maybe try that?

Looks awesome! I think it would look great dumped

I have an 83 ECU

My Fusible links gave me so much grief, try replacing the links or doing the Scoche [proper fuse] conversion.

The housing sits at an angle, so it might stick out of the bucket some. http://cas07.businessflow.ms/3.9.6/media/item_image_sheet.aspx?domain=lkqonline.com&item_guid=039d6fe6-c549-4e7f-b9c8-2b83c9eb40b7 It would be cool for someone to play around with a mini headlight and a spare headlight bucket.

Also check your starter. When mine went bad, my radio and headlights would turn on in ACC but then everything would click off when I switched it to the Start position

I have a shaved 75 non-EGR intake, and I tossed the Air Regulator. While it does look way better and there's no real problems in the summer, it sucks having to start the car when it is really cold outside. I have to either set my idle really high [its about 700 RPM cold and 1100 warm] or keep my foot on the throttle for the first few minutes to keep it from dying. Just letting you know, in Texas it may not be that much of a problem for you. I didn't have any issues with it until I moved up to Fayetteville and was driving it in sub 30* weather.

MJ how did you install the studs? Did you tighten them with the allen wrench hole on the top before you torqued them? Just wondering, I just put the ARPs in my motor. [i screwed up the timing though so its not running yet]

Sounds like a monster. Was there any front end damage?

Is this it? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fuel-Injector-Connector-Mercedes-Benz-450-sl-slc-107_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ300073247588QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories thats quite expensive, though...

When my tax return comes in I'm going to buy a rusty 280 for $200 this guy is trying to sell me, it has a good L28 in it. I think I might try and do this as well for next summer's project Please keep us updated!

How incredibly uneccessary! Why would you ask if you had already made up your mind?

jnj - in the video that Braap posted you let off everytime the car lifted, have you found any solutions to that? [And here we have a good example of how there CAN be too much horsepower ]

That's what I meant. Come on now Forrest! Good luck, hopefully you figure something out this weekend

Can't wait to see it finished - Good luck Braaaap! Hey, if you have any more LSXs laying around you can go ahead and ship one down my way

Blakt Out go re-read the forum rules: "1. The purpose of this site is to discuss TECHNICAL topics that pertain to the modification of the Datsun/Nissan Z cars (240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 300ZX, 350Z). No thoughtful modification that enhances performance or styling will be put down. The philosophy is one of "parts is parts" - it doesn't matter what automaker originally made the parts, if you think that using those parts on your Z will add to it's performance or cosmetic appeal. But the emphasis is on FUNCTION, not the addition of graphics, wings, etc. to only make the Z LOOK like it is a high performance car. However, everyone has their own ideas of what stylish modifications look good or bad." And please explain to me how a pushrod LS7 is redneck.