speeder

Tim, We never put an EGT guage on kjones' supe'd car - I was always curious as to what numbers would be seen. Ken's cam is pretty big, with way more overlap than a turbo cam...and max boost seen so far is 14 psi. Also, he's making nowhere near the power you are, so I'm not sure what conclusions could be drawn. I'm currently battling high EGTs on the turbo car also, even having swapped guage types like you did. At 22 psi boost, 1650-1700F is measured at the center of the turbine inlet on my 1/2" spacer, probably about 4 inches from the nearest exhaust valve on my BAE log manifold. This is with temporarily cranking in as much advance as I dare to try (25-26 at max boost with double and triple checking base timing), and even with with lowering AFRs down to the 10.5 range. Scary, but things are holding together...Of course, this is with a smaller turbo - mine's only a T67 with .63 A/R turbine. Not much help here, I'm afraid.

I tried to talk the car owner into a 60-2 crank trigger and COP LS-1 coils but he didn't want to pop for the extra $. I will do that one on a later project. Looking at the ZX distributor installed in the stock configuration at #1 TDC, the offset angle of the trigger window to rotor appears to be very close to 30 (distributor) degrees = ~ 60 crankshaft degrees, with proper rotor - to cap indexing - so all looks good. I'll get the exact number by test and report, but it looks as if others have used a trigger angle of 63-78 with success.

I'm beginning a MS 3.0 install using an 83 ZXT distributor. In the several threads dealing with this configuration here no one has mentioned modifying the trigger wheel-to-rotor indexing. Does this mean that in unmodified form (with stock distributor/ oil pump drive indexing) the trigger wheel is already providing the ~ 60 degrees advance necessary? Pretty sure I know the answer but will ask anyway and save the trouble of testing it myself:biggrin: . Thanks.

And I was struggling to figure out how to route my 3" side pipes. Thanks Wayne for showing how to do it! Mine will be run through/be covered by the side skirts and have turned out exits just ahead of the rear wheels. I plan to use a pair of 3" perforated core stainless Turbo Tube muffs - 3.5" outside diameter gives room for insulated wrap - Probably way too loud if you don't have turbos. For track use (or just when I want to make some noise ) I will have some straight pipes to bolt on. V-band flange joints from turbo outlets to muffllers will facilitate easy assembly and alignment.

HeHe, Dr. James - always "Mr. Etiquette". I'm sure he posted with the utmost respect.

Twin 60-1s. Flow is good for 600hp per each. My goal is 1000whp. Now back to your regularly scheduled SBC forum.

I don't think you can claim the title for that one among this crowd yet, Wayne...I am definitely feeling you on that subject. That's some good progress on your super-unique setup. FI is where it's at! Keep the reports coming.

Just confirms my opinion that you've got a keeper, Scottie. That's my situation.

Yep, I could have said that myself about my 280YZ w/Twin turbo Buick Stage 2 build. Black is perfect for that car. Sounds like we may be painted at roughly the same time.

I believe I've got a carrier left over from an LSD install - Will check my parts stash tomorrow.

That's the way I always do it. I 'm surprised no one has mentioned the wet toilet paper method. Stuff the bearing with wet TP and insert a tight - fitting deep socket, then tap with a hammer. Hydraulic pressure will extract the bushing. It works, no sh!t.

Garrett, I have some 3.54 R200s laying around that need to go. Come get one.

I have an N42 head that was reworked by the engine rebuilder ATK to have round ports with no liners. This was done to make it fit the round port exhaust manifolds. Dunno how this head would stack up flow-wise with the N42 or N47... BTW, The N47 is the head that was standard on the 77/78 280Zs. I have heard of some very late 78s that had the P79 as original equipment. So many different heads have been swapped onto these old L motors that it cannot be assumed that what's on there now is the one it was made with!

That is a quote from Animal House's Bluto (John Beluchi) to try and lift the spirits of his frat bros...

This post strikes a chord with me. Temps in the 90s and nagging problems to solve are sapping my motivation. Same here - big stuff is done, lots of minor stuff to clear up. The only thing to do is keep visualizing the final product, focus on one thing at a time, (I make a prioritized list) and stay on it. If I get too pissed at setbacks, I just take some time off to calm down and think things through before resuming work. Some inspirational words: "Was it over when the Germans bombed Pearl Harbor? Hell no! And it ain't over now. 'Cause when the going gets tough . . . the tough get going. Who's with me? Let's Go! Come on! AAAAEEEEEGGGHHHH!!" Now go out there and finish those Z Cars.

Hoping to get this thing painted sometime in the next couple months. I have paint, most of the blocking is done, just need to get time.

Good work! The front YZs are not lipped - They can be trimmed/added to in order to move the arches fore/aft. I left mine in the stock position, but had to enlarge the radiuses (radii?) to clear the wheel/tire combos used. My member gallery has more body pics.

Wayne,, you have been busy! Can't wait to see you and this beast next week.

The water temp sender was connected to the guage via a connection through the stock injection harness that has now been removed. There is a wire in a now empty six -pin plug on under the driver's side dash that goes to the temp guage (usually yellow). Run a new wire from the sender to that one and your guage will now work.

Yup, film can.

The local motorcycle shop was restoring an old Suzuki, and while disassembling a parts bike found this secret compartment, complete with an ancient, dessicated doob. Funny Shiat!

Check my sig pics for the Reaction Research vents molded into the fiberglass fenders. Lots easier to do when everything's fiberglass.

Guys, It turns out that I didn't need a bigger master at all - the stock 5/8 is sufficient to work the McCleod slave. I had other issues with a custom pilot bushing that was hanging up the clutch, now fixed. On to aftermarket masters - Almost all the Race-type masters (Tilton, Quartermaster, Girling, etc) will fit the s30 bolt-up with a suitable clevis available from most race supply places. I'm still using the Tilton (got more travel and LOTS more effort) but recently have found that the Quartermaster all-aluminum ones are more compact, fit well, and are cheaper. With all of these you have to convert the -3 flare fitting on the master to your hardline, or replace the whole line with a US - spec line. A little creative plumbing is needed in any case, as the TOB comes with -4 fittings standard IIRC.

- Preach it, Brother! To also quote TimZ, "Automatics are the spawn of Satan"

Yeah it does. I need to get off my lazy butt & do it. The body in the sig is no more. The YZ rears were pretty smooth as received - they did require a little filler to take out slight ripples.