mattb3562

There's a trans adapter for the vk56 to bolt up to a 5spd from a z32. Many ppl on here are running that tranny behind they're rbs.http://collinsadapters.com/index.php/adapter-plates/vk56de-to-350z-transmission-adapter-plate.html

How about a ceramic coating over the headers to seal the steel from moisture? As that generally does not keep the engine bay as cool as advertised, you could then wrap the header. Not a very cheap way out, but definitely cheaper than fabbing SS.

I wouldn't worry about that. Just make sure it doesn't go any higher or getting warm to the touch.

I've got one from my 76. $25 shipped

I wish you would have posted this a couple weeks ago....I just went to the pull a part and got a crank sensor, ignition edits module, and coil pack. I already have A wheel from DIYAutotune, but I like the way other people have mounted the wheel on the backside of the belt

That will work. Do you, by chance, have an EDIS wheel mounted to a crank pulley that you would wanna trade?

I agree. In my own opinion, its just ugly. Lol

I've got one with pigtail. Male and female connectors that I used with megssquirt. New cap painted red, new rotor button. Its also a fairly new reman dizzy...PM me for details, bit I'd like to get 175 to recoop SOME of my money. Lol

I would love to have a single row, but will settle for a 2 row if someone has one to part with. Thanks.

If anyone has a wheel and/or bracket for vr sensor. Would also be willing to buy the coils setup if anyone has something to part with.

You know that you can shave off the lineup tabs and use some of an old yota truck?

This us getting interesting....I'm tuned in!

Make sure your he and spark tables are set down to the IPA that your idling at...if you're not telling it to fuel or giving a timing command at that manifold pressure, it simply won't react.

I've got the b&m ripper and I had to notch the front of my console. I was having the same problem. I would recommend buying a universal shift boot if you cut the console as the factory boot won't be big enough cover fill the hole

Not to steal the thread, but has anyone found a nice set of sporty newer looking mirrors that are paintable? Pics of these would be awesome too!

If the chemical used is not catalyzed, it will, from what I've seen, breakdown over time by the fuel and either turn gummy, or break off in chunks in the tank. Make sure you have a clear filter installed between the tank and pump. And if the fuel looks odd, have it tested. The tank may need 'recleaned' and properly coated. Like anything else, there are quality chemicals vs cheap chemicals that coulda been used in your tank.

Yeah its tough love, bro, but I think you need to be on Google studying turbocharging theory for a month or two. It'll help you put together a much better game plan for your car.

T28 flange is too small and it's going backwards. You'll be able to find a functional, stock t3 if you post about it in the 'parts wanted' section. Plenty of folks run an open BOV with the ECCS, but I'm sure it would be a tad more 'laggy'. I would recommend a recirculating Bosch from a 1g DSM. One should be had on eBay for $20-$30. It can be vented back before the AFM. And finally, a wideband will be the best investment you could make. Watching your AFRs to make sure your engine stays safe under boost is cheap insurance. You don't want to push more air than what can be burned, so I would definitely wanna be able to see what's goin on.

I've got one that was on a great running and driving 76. Idk if its the same or not....but $25 shipped

I'm not gonna go and do Tue math for you, but if I had to guess, you're required fuel should be way on down closer to 7. Mine is running slightly rich at 9.0 with 440cc injectors.

Yeah I may have missed it earlier in the post, but I would need to see fuel pressure numbers from before/ after fuel filter and rail. Yeah also testing the AFM would be a good place to start. I ditched my eccs, so I honestly can't remember how the warmup enrichment works...if it has a thermo time switch or gathers data from which temp switch but after all of that is confirmed good...fuel pressure, AFM, and the warmup system, (thermotime stuck on my 76 and caused the same type problem flooding) then I would wonder about the eccs itself, although they're pretty tough

I'll sell you the housing for $60 shipped and I'll pay the PayPal.

Could be over fueling and flooding.

Loved the look, so I had to steal it....sorry BLOZ UP. Lol

I have some off of a 76....$20 plus shipping and paypal