sticky280zx

there is no MAF in our cars, just the AFM....not untill the 300zx did z's get a Mass Air Flow they only had Air Flow Meters

ive done alot of "packages" for people over the years and heres one that theyre always happy with header exhaust intake bigger 60mm 240sx tb (with spacer) aftermarket barbed fuel rail with gauge adjustable fuel pressure regulator Ported intake manifold (gasket matched runners/openeded up tb opening) and a few tips and tricks that i tell them, that normally gets plenty of umph out of the MOTOR...but theres so much more involved with a car than just the motor. Like others have said brakes and suspension should be FIRST (not much use having a faster car that you cant control)...also along with that goes drivetrain. Again a higher Diff ratio will make it zippy (going from 3.54 to a 3.9 or 4.11) also welding those higher geared diffs or buying the LSD equivilant will make a world of difference geting that newly added power to the ground. Not to mention with more power you could probably use a nicer stiffer clutch like the "dual friction" from centerforce or something similar, also while youre at it a lightweight flywheel will make a world of difference and let you pass people on the highway/city without having to downshift. And finally i would say look at your timing, ofcourse with that goes better fuel/spark. Instead of the cheap 87 you can run 93, advance your timing on idle and full vac, gap your plugs less or get a step hotter to make sure that fuel is burnt, also upgrading to the later zx distributor will make those higher rpms alot smoother. Thats alot of secrets right there, alot of people know about the "parts" but its the combination and how you use those "parts" that really net the results. Its not just ill take one of everything and throw it on the car cause obviously if you ad a bigger exhaust but no more than stock air flow...you just wasted your money and arent going to see results. Just look around on this site and others as there are a TON of write-ups on everything i have mentioned and then some that can make your Z alot more enjoyable on the street. -Jeff Just noticed you were in houston, so if you need any parts or interested in doing some upgrades just let me know as i am fairly close and can hook you up.

square tubing is great stuff, i use it for floor rails and thicker plain sheet metal for the floors. Works great and is ALOT cheaper that premade panels (and i dont care about drain plugs/having oem nissan floors).

ive got one in dallas for 200

haha and ive saved a 79 rack since its the manual steering, responds soooo much better than the power, but then again ive had it on a N/a or stroked motor car =) maybe someday ill get into the turbo crowd....but i have a v8 z in storage so i think that might be the side i go with lol

i got one, but its new, shiney, spiffy and all that. was looking for 250shipped on it (shipping runs 50-75) just let me know, cheaper than buying it new but i dont need it at the moment, and could use the cash

i have that as well lol i cannot get any info on shipping from the dock but obviously can include that with the other pieces if you want to take all of it just shoot me another email and hopefully we can work everything out.... datsundriver88@hotmail.com ive got a parts car (very straight just dont need it laying around) but i might as well cut it up and shipped the parts to you through my shipping company as i stated before, its alot cheaper that mailing them. Just need you to pick up or set up shipping from the dock it sounds like. Thanks again -Jeff

still got mine...whenever youre ready 40 shipped to your door paypal is jeffdahot1@hotmail.com

can do 80 shipped...paypal is jeffdahot1@Hotmail.com

also if that black one was in irving, he has had it listed forever and has offered to go as low as 2k...might be a different auto black 78 280 though lol

ive seen that car around, a guy in my city actually was selling it about 6months or so ago, was going to buy it from him for 1k and do exactly what the last guy did lol some cheap fixes to get it running and BAM profit, still a good price though especially for the ZZAPPPP edition, i would hope you keep it the same color/scheme as it is halfway important to the z gods, but to each his own.

interior is not where you need to be looking, JACK the car up, check areas that people already mentioned and dont waste time stripping it down if theres obviously nothing to build on.

3k could even build you a decent stroker as well, just depends on how long you want it to last, how good you want it to perform, how hard youre going to be on it, and whether or not you want your powere n/a or f/i.

just asking but wouldnt the lower rear use more than say a 3.5 or 3.7/staying in boost longer/using more fuel, also you are using the 5spd on a car that wasnt before? So you might not be getting the right mph/odo because of the swap? those are the things standing out making me think that it would be that low, and obviously if the car is turned on..>RAPED...then turned off everytime then its prolly not gonna get great milage, the heavier your foot the worse it gets. I used to drive a chevy turbo diesel, lifted, etc truck and if i drove it nice its get 15-20 and if i stomped it around town itd get 8...so yea it could just be the heavy foot.

just remember to make it FLOW....nomatter what if it flows it will make more power, like the hopped up motor in my car, ive had a shell for years and been waiting to put the motor in (suppose to be a low comp stroker) all i know is it has a LUMPY cam, pulls very quickly, but it ran well and was in a decent so i left it in the car, well now that its going into a shell i figured id look it over...no leaks or needs for gaskets and i dont care if i find a v07 crank or its just really hopped up (the dyno will tell the story) but it has a 60mm tbso i open it up and BAM stock manifold...so guess what im doing. PORTWORK...best investment to making a car fast...ask around and youll find out the difference between the real N/A 300whp guys and the 200whp budget stroker builds, same with the 300-350whp turbo guys and the 450-500whp ones.

hey man whats the dealio with the roll on, just to ask for me and anyone else that might be interested. any advantages over spray on (other than not having to have a booth/gun) and what brand/type of primer, roller sizing, sanding procedure, etc....dont want to ruin the thread but would love to know. You could also make a thread in the body/paint if you dont want to answer here.

custom intake manis arent too bad to make if you know someon with a tig. The material and cuts arent so difficult you just have to have it planned out and someone that has a tig if you dont, to weld it all up.

heres the one im talking about im actually looking into remaking them

I've got a set in a car that i just put all my 78 suspension into and it had 86k on the clock front didnt float around, Shoot me an email if you are interested to datsundriver88@hotmail.com. thanks -Jeff I can do $175 shipped for the front shocks and all springs.

then get 17s, selection sucks in 15s unless you get compound especially if you are going to be VERRYYY picky on the sidewall height, thats just the way it goes cant have best of both worlds unless you go 17s. I just hate when people say there arent any because there are you just have to learn how to work with them, like i said 275/60 is a big tall tire on an 8-9 and even 10inch wheel which is why ive said 245/255 for the 10in and go 235-60 or 225-50 on the fronts but if you want very short sidewalls a bigger size wheel is the way to go, if you want to pass on those wheels or get frustrated finding tires, thats fine ill trade you some rota 17's for them anytime aka youre never going to get wide short tires for handling/everyday use in 15" its the price we pay for staying old school and saving weight.

Ughhh rookies, lol you have to take into account the stretch. If you have a 255-60 or 275-60 on a 10 its not going to be as tall as my 245/60's Bulged on an 8" rim. And unless your slamming the crap out of your car, and dont car about traction, then you are going to want something bigger than a 50 sidewall. I ra 225/50/15s on the rear of my "mostly stock" bolted on and cranked timing stock body z and i could spin the crap out of first gear and spin second after shifts if i was "gettin it" not to mention rain took out the first 3 gears at anything over 3k when the full vac advance hit.

haha wellll then i guess the 245-60-15s on my friends zx i just test fitted for my own dont exist then lol pics....245/60/15 BFG TA's ps there are a ton of Street tires 225-275 just not alot with short sidewall

thanks for clearing that up, theres so many terms and information he was having an issue figuring out what he still had and what he had already sold off, thanks again -Jeff

well 40 for the 2row if you need it, its on an engine i just pulled so just let me know

I would think if he was going to cut for that he might as well just get a 280z hood, I think hes on a better track with the ZX idea but placement is everything, you can either go up high and have it look "right" or you can cut low like others have in threads and it still look Ok (in my opinion) but be alot more functional, please look for the threads in the wind results/whatnot section for the cars im talking about, they vents can be very functional from what ive seen if placed accordingly. Also you might look into a fiberglass hood, I have an extra right now im debating about what car to use it on or even use it at all but im thinking its from "RR" out in arizona (id have to look at the box) but its a fiberglass hood, looks like stock, but the back where it latches is hollowed out so it technically is a "cowl" yet stock hood. -Jeff